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P3D+ Brakes make noise at a full stop when depressing

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Noticed as of a few days ago that the brakes on my P3D+ are making a bit of a metallic settling noise when being used. It sounds similar to how it sounds when a wheel settles on the hub when you're tightening lug nuts. All four wheels are doing it, but the back passenger is the loudest.

It's easy to replicate at a standstill by removing the parking brake (shifting to D), then having a friend depress the brake over and over. It makes less noise in the rear if the parking brake is on, almost like the rotor itself is loose.

Has anybody else seen this before?
 
Noticed as of a few days ago that the brakes on my P3D+ are making a bit of a metallic settling noise when being used. It sounds similar to how it sounds when a wheel settles on the hub when you're tightening lug nuts. All four wheels are doing it, but the back passenger is the loudest.

It's easy to replicate at a standstill by removing the parking brake (shifting to D), then having a friend depress the brake over and over. It makes less noise in the rear if the parking brake is on, almost like the rotor itself is loose.

Has anybody else seen this before?

I hear the typical brake noise as the pads hit the rotors. The are a bit noisier at first if the car was washed or it rained and there is some surface rust that needs to be burned off but not like you are describing. I do get that motorized noise when the parking brake is applied but that seems normal for these cars.

Maybe pull one of the wheels so you can get a better look at the rotor and calipers to see if anything is obvious.
 
That makes the sound too. A friend indicated it might be unlubricated caliper pins. Mine was one of the very first P3D+ cars so it is very possible.

There are other things wrong with this car (brake drag, misaligned passenger door, paint bubbles) so I guess it's finally time to schlepp to the SC and see what's up. Will update the thread once I know more, in a few weeks.
 
Found out what it was. The Tesla technician told me the brakes were fine, maybe just needed some lubrication.

I took it to a proper shop and they showed me pads that were very much not fine:

gSLFxa7.jpg


Probably from a hard day at the track. The stock pads can't handle it. I'm replacing them with RB XT910s and we'll see how that goes.
 
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The craziest part was that the Tesla service tech told me he looked at the pads and they were fine. I assume he didn't actually take them out, so he couldn't see the cracking, but he should have noticed the uneven wear. Instead, he said this creaking noise was normal. It's obviously not normal and is potentially dangerous if the pads start to crumble. They could use some retraining.

Got the XT910s on and they're actually pretty quiet, nice pedal feel, good stopping power. Worth the upgrade and got them for less than $300 for the set. Was almost the same cost in labor...
 
What are your impressions of XT910 after one track day with them? Were you able to lay down an even layer of pad material on the rotor?

They were way better than stock. Where the stock pads went soft after a few laps in the first session, the 910s stayed strong through both 1st and 2nd sessions. Pedal got a bit soft in 3rd session....not nearly as bad as with the stock pads, and I suspect may be due to brake fluid. Haven't bled the brakes again yet to see. The stock pads were significantly worn down after my first track day, where the 910s still look good.

Here's what the rotors looked like the next day...not sure how to read these. They aren't patchy like the pics you posted in that other thread, but are lighter colored closer to the center.

Anyway, if the soft pedal doesn't go away when I bleed the brakes again I may go up to the 970s. I was really encouraged by your comments that they are quiet enough for street driving as well, although I still have my stock rotors so I could conceivably run stock rotors with 910s on the street and RB rotors with 970s on the track and not have to worry about rebedding when swapping.


IMG_20190825_103313.jpg
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They were way better than stock. Where the stock pads went soft after a few laps in the first session, the 910s stayed strong through both 1st and 2nd sessions. Pedal got a bit soft in 3rd session....not nearly as bad as with the stock pads, and I suspect may be due to brake fluid. Haven't bled the brakes again yet to see. The stock pads were significantly worn down after my first track day, where the 910s still look good.

Here's what the rotors looked like the next day...not sure how to read these. They aren't patchy like the pics you posted in that other thread, but are lighter colored closer to the center.

Anyway, if the soft pedal doesn't go away when I bleed the brakes again I may go up to the 970s. I was really encouraged by your comments that they are quiet enough for street driving as well, although I still have my stock rotors so I could conceivably run stock rotors with 910s on the street and RB rotors with 970s on the track and not have to worry about rebedding when swapping.


View attachment 453689 View attachment 453690

That looks a nice even layer of pad material. The center section takes longer to build up, it sees less piston pressure and less rotational travel compare to outer section of the rotor. What’s your technique? I need to do what you do.

Swap rotor with pads would be ideal if you don’t mind the work. But I guess with the stock caliper you have to remove the caliper just to change the pad, so it’s no big deal to swap rotor at the same time. Gotten spoiled with quick pad change on front RB caliper.

970 does not screech constantly like some race pad, but you can hear a faint metal chaffing sound when you come to a stop. Once awhile it does screech when coming to a stop on reverse. IMHO it is quiet enough for street, but it’s not silent.
 
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