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2023.32.4 and "Update Low Voltage (LV) Battery Type

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Anyone with 2023.32.4 or higher in a Model 3/Y with Lead Acid Battery? In the new release note it mentions updating LV battery type. This option appears to be in "Service Mode" (a video is below on how to easily access). Take a look at the LV battery choices and post a photo. Asking for lots of friends.

 
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Confirmed on a vintage (2018 HW2.5, 12V Lead Acid) Model 3.

It can be changed now, BUT the options Tesla gives are limited to two Lead-Acids and so useless for LiFePO4 swap applications (thx Tesla). Vintage 3s and Ys planned obsolescence much?

At least we dont have to deal with severely undersized 16V in the newer cars that suicides in 10min if it ever has to maintain vital systems on its own.

Note the fine print in the poor screenshots from my car....

also the option is buried in a screen where you'd least expect it, along with VCFront settings and procs, not a separate section for LV setting (to mimic the HV setting screens).
20230924_121410.jpg20230924_121421.jpg
 

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The million dollar question is which is more meh - the Atlas or the Clarius aka Varta aka Zubr akd DieHardEV. All seem just as bad as the OE Atlas. The irony.



 
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The million dollar question is which is more meh - the Atlas or the Clarius aka Varta aka Zubr akd DieHardEV. All seem just as bad as the OE Atlas. The irony.



The DiehardEV (I have that one for the winter) is an AGM. The others appear to be flooded LA. The week link of 121 volt seems to be common with IONIC and KIA EV same issues with 12 volt LA batteries.
 
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So here is the question: Below freezing the Ohmmu needs to be warmed to accept a low amperage charge. The M3 trickles as low as .01 amps. The heating of the V4++ would solve this. How many amps does the V4++ use to warm itself or keep itself at a charging temperature (probably above 40 F)? I see the sequence as this: The battery cools, thermostat starts the warming cycle. Once the Ohmmu gets to about 12.8-12.9 volts the M3 wakes and recharges the V4++ back to 13.3 to 13.8V shuts off and sleeps again. This is a normal cycle that when the V4++ volts drops to a level the car wakes and recharges. That is OK if plugged into a wall charger. But if sitting outdoors (say an airport) for a week with no charger after repeated waking cycles 24/7 the main battery would run down. Each waking cycle draws about 25 amps before recharging the V4+. I parked a MY for 10 days and lost 1% mainly for checking once a day for 10 days to see charge level. (Sentry and overheat was off). I like the V4++ and if current draw was extremely small waking may not happen for several hours. The goal would be to minimize wake cycles. Anyone in cold temps yet testing this? Being connected to a wall charger when not in use is my situation but could be limited it traveling.