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#34 Salvage auction

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@ Ghenghis Khan
I didn't notice a 100 W drain either. What Roadster VIN do you have the drain at?

Finally some useful progress on #34

Unfortunaltey I've a lack of time at the moment and am glad to see some progress at all... so I think I'll write the manual when I take apart the next Roadster, which is not unlikely :p

2014-05-23 20.17.30.jpg
 
I'll be interested to see how that color looks when you're done. My 760Li was that color, and it just seems like a "big car" color to me. But it did look GEORGOUS when clean and good when dirty. I just don't know if there's enough real estate on the Roadster to get the full beauty of that color.
 
I would be willing to "donate" to the cause as I really hope to keep my Roadster for MANY more years and I normally perform all my own maintenance. But I hesitate to dig in without any reference material. I guess what concerns me the most is being able to repair the ESS (Battery) and the PEM. Most other things one can figure out.
I agree +1
In fact I discussed with another UK Roadster Owner (Kevin), that it may be good to 'group buy' a smashed car for spares/salvage .. as spares are so expensive from tesla, and this would help with understanding / reverse engineering, towards a wiki / manual / 1st hand info. FWIW There is at least one an ex-tesla Technical guy on TMC (eg Supercharged20v, here in UK).
Surely this forum would be the obvious place for a wiki.

Marco you are an absolute star - thanks for sharing your experience AND electronics knowledge....and yes happy to contribute.
 
The frontal area is almost done.

Next steps:
-adjusting the trunk lid (won't be fun:D)
-interior

The car is quite dirty from putting on and pulling off (and again) the body panels, but the color looks great. Well I have to say that because I chose it, but I think it really does.
Bildschirmfoto 2014-05-31 um 14.48.17.png
 
BRAVO! Well done... Not being very technical, I'm beholden to Tesla for our CPO Roadster... Any progress you guys make and a LOT of courage on my part would allow me to keep my wife's Roadster in the family once Tesla stops supporting the product.... or we'll sell it at that time.

Either way, WOW
 
EMC test -- check.
The drivetrain (wideband measurement) was no problem at all and far below the limit, the DC DC converter (narrowband measurement) was below the limit as well... after some slight modifications.
What's left is the actual road approval test, somewhen in August.

2014-07-18 22.42.35.jpg
 
EMC test -- check.
The drivetrain (wideband measurement) was no problem at all and far below the limit, the DC DC converter (narrowband measurement) was below the limit as well... after some slight modifications.
What's left is the actual road approval test, somewhen in August.

View attachment 55130

Well done !!!

you have done an amazing job (and in the process demystified a lot about the roadster).

any more pictures of the rebuild ? P L E A S E share :)

Question: Do you have any pictures or description of the nose cone mounting screws ?
I'd like to try and re-align my nose to get more even gaps.
 
I wonder if you would be eligible to upgrade the battery pack with the "advertised" 400 mile pack?

Probably yes, I have no idea, why I shouldn't. Well, the "old" ESS is still good, CAC is approaching 152...

Question: Do you have any pictures or description of the nose cone mounting screws ?
I'd like to try and re-align my nose to get more even gaps.
There are plastic shims, which can be put between the fender and the bumper.
Will look for some pics, but it's actually easy to do. I think there are two screws on either side and some in the middle in the very front under the "hood". It should be enough to loosen the screws for the adjustment.

It looks like that picture was taken when the top of the dashboard was missing and we were seeing the back side of the gauge cluster.

Was the interior partially stripped down on that outside picture?

Exactly, it's the gauge cluster.

Yes, the interior was almost completely out of the car and still partially out on the outside picture.
 
There are plastic shims, which can be put between the fender and the bumper.
Will look for some pics, but it's actually easy to do. I think there are two screws on either side and some in the middle in the very front under the "hood". It should be enough to loosen the screws for the adjustment.

Thanks Marco I'll have a play :)
any pix also very welcome - good luck with your project - ACE :)
 
Due to some questions, I noticed that I never posted the outcome of the project.

The Roadster is fully approved now. It drove > 3500 km since the repair.

This week I noticed a decrease of 20 km (12,5 miles) ideal range, while CAC increased by 0.1. SOC difference from brick to brick is also ok.
So from my understanding this will probably be caused by the recent temperature drop?
 
Congrats Marco. Many of us are impressed!

I've lost about 5 miles since early September but my CAC has not changed. Last winter I lost 5 mi and the CAC also dropped. Both recovered with warm weather in the spring. I've come to expect it.

Due to some questions, I noticed that I never posted the outcome of the project.

The Roadster is fully approved now. It drove > 3500 km since the repair.

This week I noticed a decrease of 20 km (12,5 miles) ideal range, while CAC increased by 0.1. SOC difference from brick to brick is also ok.
So from my understanding this will probably be caused by the recent temperature drop?