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48v Design Manual PDF

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Yep, love to see it. Here's one (not Tesla) that I found: 48-V Systems: What You Need to Know as Automakers Say Goodbye to 12 V
Yep, as the above alludes to, >12 (or 14) but <=48 volts systems have been in use in mild hybrids starting quite awhile ago.

In the US, I knew of GM's BAS mild hybrids (BAS hybrid - Wikipedia). https://www.autoweek.com/news/a36331077/48-volt-hybrid-system-explained/ points to more. 48-volt electrical system - Wikipedia claims there are a few others.
 
Yep, as the above alludes to, >12 (or 14) but <=48 volts systems have been in use in mild hybrids starting quite awhile ago.

In the US, I knew of GM's BAS mild hybrids (BAS hybrid - Wikipedia). https://www.autoweek.com/news/a36331077/48-volt-hybrid-system-explained/ points to more. 48-volt electrical system - Wikipedia claims there are a few others.
My understanding is these 48v mild-hybrids are only using 48v for the small propulsion motor. The other motors (typically >50 motors on a car today) and electronics modules (also usually 20-50 modules per car) are still all 12v.

Slightly unrelated, I did motors count on each Tesla model. The Model X Plaid was the champ at 118 motors!
 
My understanding is these 48v mild-hybrids are only using 48v for the small propulsion motor. The other motors (typically >50 motors on a car today) and electronics modules (also usually 20-50 modules per car) are still all 12v.

Slightly unrelated, I did motors count on each Tesla model. The Model X Plaid was the champ at 118 motors!

I think it would be amusing if more people knew their gas cars, had hundreds of electric motors.
 
I'll summarize it:
  • Make all your parts run off of 48V and make your wires thinner.
  • For parts where you can't source a 48V version use a DC-DC converter.
Thats pretty much it. No magic here. In general its just not worth it to go to 48v and retool everything.

There are a number of platforms that are micro/mild hybrids with 48v propulsion. Some have the P0 BAS and some have a P0 and P2 or P4. Generally only the systems that have high current draw are 48V because there is not a benefit for doing most things at that voltage.

There are components like electric assist turbos, catalyst heaters, EGR pumps, etc that run on 48v outside of just propulsion and stop/start.

Yes you can decrease the amount of copper in the wires and it adds up over the entire vehicle, but most 12V wires are pretty small anyway so the amount of decrease in reality is small. With the higher voltage, more insulation is needed so the overall wire diameter is similar anyway. The only place its going to make a big difference is your high draw components as most motors don’t need to output mega torque.

Maybe people want to upgrade to hi-po windscreen wipers or have window roll down drag races, but the real life benefit is small, which is why most companies only use 48V where its needed.