Bms errors unknown

[Vadjusha]

Hi everybody!

my 2013 p85 stopped on the highway with bms errors f059 w059

didn’t restart and stop all connection with contactors. 12v system not charging from main battery. Charge port without any lights.
Do you know a sort of this errors?
the car is far from any service place.

 

[Vadjusha]

So, continue my story.
Just opened factory.
the alerts has subjects for HV battery cells.
this one - pack voltage does not match sum of the brick voltages

sounds not good.
Do someone has an ideas for it?

 

[Vadjusha]

Never seen same issues on any Tesla’s forums.

 

[sorka]

You won't really know anything until the 12 battery is replaced and wait to see if the other errors come back.

 

[Vadjusha]

You won't really know anything until the 12 battery is replaced and wait to see if the other errors come back.

I’m not quite sure in this way as battery shows 14v charged and works fine.
these are the fault codes I include and the cells status

 

[Vadjusha]

You won't really know anything until the 12 battery is replaced and wait to see if the other errors come back.

I’m not quite sure in this way as battery shows 14v charged and works fine.
these are the fault codes I include and the cells

 

[rooter]

Yep, several KFC's there, which means you have Kentucky Fried Chicken in your pack.

heh, but seriously your total pack voltage is 346.176, yeah way low. I can't read the yellow module section readings without a magnifying glass which I'm not going to get up and get.

How many KM or what % was the charge saying on the IC, which may now be blank? Wasn't it low/zero or --?

Your pack could use balancing. Get it on a charger, set it to 100%, and leave it for 12 hours. (Pack balancing starts at 92% SoC)

 

[Vadjusha]

Thank you for the kind response !!!
I put larger images.
you mean it must to be calibrated?
But I cannot charge it as it blockhed the charging port and driving.

 

[Vadjusha]

And what is the KFC inside?))

 

[Vadjusha]

The standard charging shows 407km and the battery 74kwt

 

[rooter]

Good news is I doubt that the main problem is the pack; I think it's just a symptom. Your SoC was way low when you were driving, but the fact that it won't allow you to charge is not good. Note that most module sections are close enough to the dead-minimum charge of 3.6vDC.

I'm sure you're not hearing the contactors make and break as they normally should. Contactors in your vintage were not up to the task, and develop microwelds and carbon buildup over time. It could be a welded contactor, (despite what the system is commanding it to do). If you're in warranty the only option is to somehow get it to a SC. If not find a way to get access to Tesla's Toolbox software; it may give more insight,

 

[rooter]

The standard charging shows 407km and the battery 74kwt

KFC was me teasing you.

Yes a standard charge should give you 407km, but that is sure not what you have now. And you have an 85KWh pack, which should give you an honest 80KWh or so.

What matters though is what it's showing -now-. Likely zero km.

 

[Vadjusha]

Thank you so much!

the car of course out of the warranty.
I need to repair it myself.
the contactors worked so often due all time. About every 5-10 min in parking.
As for toolbox, I just have a factory and programmer, who distantly can scan the car. Maybe toolbox he has.
Someone here is thinking that the resistance too high and maybe some wiring or bms board has troubles or water.
do I need to dismount the battery pack from the car?

 

[Vadjusha]

KFC was me teasing you.

Yes a standard charge should give you 407km, but that is sure not what you have now. And you have an 85KWh pack, which should give you an honest 80KWh or so.

What matters though is what it's showing -now-. Likely zero km.

Yes, understand the teesing but not quite know this phrase.
as for the charging, my duty charge is 360 km for 80% the actual battery capacity is 407

 

[rooter]

I really do not think that the battery modules are the problem. I think they are just a symptom. They are just very low on charge.

If the contactors are the problem then yes you must drop the pack to replace them. It is a very risky operation as any DC voltage over 48v can be dangerous. If you do replace the contactors be sure to install inconel contactors -- this is what all the newer cars have and it fixes the problems.

 

[Vadjusha]

Thank you again.
do you have any ideas where the contactirs would be purchased for best?

 

[rooter]

I use eBay for just about everything. I'm banned from Paypal because I gave them a bad review, but fortunately eBay now has their own payment service.

Paypal sux and has unfairly cost me $thousands.

 

[Vadjusha]

Totally agree about PayPal!)) Elon awesome manager!))
But we’re using his products.

thanks. I’ll discover the market for the parts, when will find the exact damaged details.

 

[sorka]

I’m not quite sure in this way as battery shows 14v charged and works fine.
these are the fault codes I include and the cells

You got a "12 volt battery must be replaced soon" error. A bad battery will still allow still show the charge level voltage at the terminals. If you really want to know for sure, disconnect the 12 volt battery and use a load tester on it that will tell you the CAs or CCAs (setting determined by temperature).

 

[Vadjusha]

Dear friends!

just found the broken part. It is main battery fuse. It has been not fully melted and passed small voltage.
just changed it and the car clears all alerts and starts and driving fine.
What do you think about the possible reason of its melt? I open it. The sand looks like a stone. Seems it was melting through a time.
Thank you very much for your kind replies.