Quickstart88
Member
Let me clarify this statement having just got my first true up bill a few months ago and watching a $900 kWh credit get wiped to $0 with no payout (I am SCE, but I think all the CA utilities work the same minus the small co-ops/CCA)
You have to generate more KWH than you used in the year. Not kWh credits. So if I generated 10,000kWh for the year, but say I used 12,000kWh I am not eligible for any $$ back because I am not a net generator. I still had $900 in kWh credits at true up due to net metering and using most of my energy at night rates to charge the car when the solar was mostly dumping to the grid at the peak rates during the day.
So I paid about $20 to $25/month in NBCs (non bypassable charges) had $900 in credit at the end of the year, and that credit was wiped to zero. Seemed a bit like a kick in the gut, honestly.
I could have turned my system off for 2 months and burned down that credit, and I might consider it next year if my credits get that high again. As it is, we added a hot tub which will burn more energy.
So I feel like you can oversize your system in CA with the current rules if $$ is the only factor (not being greener, etc).
So you still pay the minimum of $20 to $25 per month probably connection fees . Let's say $25x12 months =$300. They should of take the $900 credits and off set the $300 hence you should get a check for $600? Or at least roll the credits to next year.
I say undersized the system a tad is the way to go to reduce your total system cost. That's why i am thinking about the 3.8 kW system.
I'll pull from the grid (TOU) at a lower rate for night time EV charging and pay at lower rate.
Not sure if that's the way to go.
It's 10k before incentive or 7.5K for the 3.8 kW system.
Or
Size a 5 kW system for 16k before incentive to completely offset the entire bill.
But those hidden connection fees at ~ $300 a year sure eat in the saving.