DIY Steering Rack Replacement 2016 Model S

[Gtech]

Hi,
My power steering went and have gtw-w036 error code.
Based on your experience, is it a bad motor?

Did you checked all incoming powers and ground to steering motor? Also check the connectors for moisture and corrosion.

 

[Mikenicee]

Did you checked all incoming powers and ground to steering motor? Also check the connectors for moisture and corrosion.

Yes. I out an ebay motor replacement. It sees it, it spins.. But how do you tension the belt on it?

 

[Mikenicee]

I definitely think there is a risk of belt tension having been lost during the bolt change. The popping sound on my S was almost certainly the belt skipping and not the rack moving due to bolt stretch. Tensioning the motor further may resolve but it will depend if the belt is worn. If you are in warranty I would get them to resolve the popping noise. Out of warranty I would remove the motor (3 bolts) check the belt and re-tension. 20 minute job if the belt is ok.

How do you re-tention belt?

 

[BostonBurley]

You just need to loosen the 3 bolts holding the power steering motor enough to allow just a little freedom of movement. Then apply tension against the belt to snug it up before tightening them back up. Use a lever or wedges between the rack and motor housing (visualize this and it’s pretty easy, albeit archaic).

 

[Aggmeister2010]

My car has had the bolts replaced prior to my ownership, and I had them add the shims and replace the bolts again (under warranty) shortly after I took delivery due to a popping noise from the steering column. 17k miles later I'm getting the noise again, I think. I still have a few months left on the warranty and I'm wondering if the replaced parts are failing in some way or if it's another issue.

Can you describe the noise you heard? I’m not sure if mine is similar. I occasionally hear a single pop while turning at low speeds. When it does happen, it seems to happen most often when I’m transitioning from forward into reverse (picture backing into a parking place doing a three point turn.)

It’s always just one pop, it’s usually not an absolute full lock, but pretty close. I had my full steering rack assembly replaced by the service center a year and a half ago, and this has happened Randomly ever since.

I’m having some other issues with steering alignment shifting during spirited drives, and I’m wondering if maybe that has something to do with this tensioning issue, and the belt is skipping? Would that make the Centerpoint of the steering wheel change?

 

[Apostle]

Just had my power steering fail on my 2016 Model S 85D. Car is now out of warranty and Tesla remote diagnostics suggest that a steering rack replacement may be required. Part alone with be £3,000. Following the Tesla recall and Steering Rack motor bolt replacement I had the clicking/popping sounds on hard lock when reversing out pf parking spaces etc, but not sure if this is related to this later failure.

The power steering failed reversing out of a parking space. Had to drive an hour home and it was hard work. You can hear the power steering motor trying but there is no assist being given and I have the errors on screen saying auto steer unavailable, park assist unavailable.

My brother is a mechanic so I think a DIY replacement of the rack is an option. I can source one for around £400 in the UK.

My question is how hard a DIY job is this on a RHD dual motor. There looks to be good access to the steering rack but from what I could find of manuals online it seems you have to remove the sub frame etc?

Is just replacing the motor an option and leaving the rest of the rack in place?

Any advice from those that have done this would be much appreciated.....

Hi

Does the vehicle need to be raised on a lift to replace the steering rack bolts?

Does the vehicle need to be raised on a lift to replace the steering rack?

Can either repair done without lifting the Model S?

 

[Apostle]

Can you describe the noise you heard? I’m not sure if mine is similar. I occasionally hear a single pop while turning at low speeds. When it does happen, it seems to happen most often when I’m transitioning from forward into reverse (picture backing into a parking place doing a three point turn.)

It’s always just one pop, it’s usually not an absolute full lock, but pretty close. I had my full steering rack assembly replaced by the service center a year and a half ago, and this has happened Randomly ever since.

I’m having some other issues with steering alignment shifting during spirited drives, and I’m wondering if maybe that has something to do with this tensioning issue, and the belt is skipping? Would that make the Centerpoint of the steering wheel change?

This happened to me also.

Just had to replace the drivetrain.

Tesla refused to replace the recalled steering rack bolts when the Model S was under warranty and recalled.

I thought the drivetrain was failing, or at the very least the drivetrain module was failing. Tesla refused to replace the drivetrain module or the drivetrain under warranty. 7 months after the warranty expired, Tesla says I have to replace the drivetrain ($6,000).

A month after refusing to replace the bolts, Tesla said I needed a new steering rack. It wasn’t covered under warranty. I had the clicking / popping, 12-volt failed, 3 windows wouldn’t go up, 2 doors were locking and wouldn’t unlock, the front passenger’s door was opening itself, and 60 miles of range disappeared.

All of this made me think the drivetrain console module was failing. When the power steering failed, I replaced the steering rack after replacing multiple window motors. 2 of the same window motors were replaced twice.

1 of the door motors was replaced twice.

2 door motors were replaced once, and 2 door handles were replaced in the 30 days prior.

During this time the screen was constantly turning black. I had to hard reboot the vehicle a few times a week and sometimes 2 to 3 times on the same day. The left button you press to reset broke. I had to also replace both buttons because the buttons only come in a set ($400).

I’d replaced 1 screen due to delaminating a year earlier so I know what a delaminating screen looks like.

Tesla refused to replace the eMMC and kept telling me the screen was delaminating.

It wasn’t until NHSTA got involved that Tesla finally replaced then eMMC but made me wait 2 years.

I just finally got the recalled eMMC replaced (supposedly) and screen is still going blank.

Now the drivetrain failed 7 months out of warranty.

How do you get your SC do replace recalled items and parts under warranty? My SC just flat refuses and says I will void my warranty if I take the vehicle anywhere else or if I attempt the work myself.

I’ve spent $10,000 on repairs this year.

 

[BostonBurley]

Hi

Does the vehicle need to be raised on a lift to replace the steering rack bolts?

Does the vehicle need to be raised on a lift to replace the steering rack?

Can either repair done without lifting the Model S?

Neither one requires a lift. You go in from the top (and the front wheel wells, I guess.

 

[Aggmeister2010]

This happened to me also.

Just had to replace the drivetrain.

Tesla refused to replace the recalled steering rack bolts when the Model S was under warranty and recalled.

I thought the drivetrain was failing, or at the very least the drivetrain module was failing. Tesla refused to replace the drivetrain module or the drivetrain under warranty. 7 months after the warranty expired, Tesla says I have to replace the drivetrain ($6,000).

A month after refusing to replace the bolts, Tesla said I needed a new steering rack. It wasn’t covered under warranty. I had the clicking / popping, 12-volt failed, 3 windows wouldn’t go up, 2 doors were locking and wouldn’t unlock, the front passenger’s door was opening itself, and 60 miles of range disappeared.

All of this made me think the drivetrain console module was failing. When the power steering failed, I replaced the steering rack after replacing multiple window motors. 2 of the same window motors were replaced twice.

1 of the door motors was replaced twice.

2 door motors were replaced once, and 2 door handles were replaced in the 30 days prior.

During this time the screen was constantly turning black. I had to hard reboot the vehicle a few times a week and sometimes 2 to 3 times on the same day. The left button you press to reset broke. I had to also replace both buttons because the buttons only come in a set ($400).

I’d replaced 1 screen due to delaminating a year earlier so I know what a delaminating screen looks like.

Tesla refused to replace the eMMC and kept telling me the screen was delaminating.

It wasn’t until NHSTA got involved that Tesla finally replaced then eMMC but made me wait 2 years.

I just finally got the recalled eMMC replaced (supposedly) and screen is still going blank.

Now the drivetrain failed 7 months out of warranty.

How do you get your SC do replace recalled items and parts under warranty? My SC just flat refuses and says I will void my warranty if I take the vehicle anywhere else or if I attempt the work myself.

I’ve spent $10,000 on repairs this year.

They definitely can't void your warranty for taking it somewhere else, as long as you use OEM parts. I've done a ton of suspension work myself, still have my warranty.

Honestly, your service center just sounds like it's full of jerks. I have never had an issue with acceptance of warranty repairs under reasonable conditions. Are there any others within a reasonable distance?

 

[Apostle]

They definitely can't void your warranty for taking it somewhere else, as long as you use OEM parts. I've done a ton of suspension work myself, still have my warranty.

Honestly, your service center just sounds like it's full of jerks. I have never had an issue with acceptance of warranty repairs under reasonable conditions. Are there any others within a reasonable distance?

I feel trapped. It's a nightmare. They flat refuse. I don't know how to get the SC to do what they are supposed to do. It feels like the only option is to complain to NHSTA. I don't know what else to do.

 

[Apostle]

Neither one requires a lift. You go in from the top (and the front wheel wells, I guess.

Thank you so very much for your quick reply. I'm grateful.

 

[David Wright]

Hi both, I've got the same problem. Bought a second hand 2016 Model S with a fair bit of mileage and the steering would get stiff at 1 o'clock, plus making a terrible noise starting off and turning. Just taken it to Cleevely in Gloucester (I'm in Brighton) and they have quoted, but the part alone is almost £3K. Any advice on who to talk to to get it sorted? I'd be happy with a used rack, but most garages won't attempt it with a used part. I'm in Brighton (Yes, Cleevely is in Gloucester).

 

[rovert]

Thanks for this thread. I've learned a few things off this as the 2016.5 Model S AWD I'm driving developed a grinding sound in the steering rack but I'm unsure if the rack is done for, the electric motor is done, or inner components in between electric motor/rack. I did record a clip with the frunk all taken out. Do any of you have experience with this sound?

https://imgur.com/lmCcLTs

 

[Aggmeister2010]

Thanks for this thread. I've learned a few things off this as the 2016.5 Model S AWD I'm driving developed a grinding sound in the steering rack but I'm unsure if the rack is done for, the electric motor is done, or inner components in between electric motor/rack. I did record a clip with the frunk all taken out. Do any of you have experience with this sound?

https://imgur.com/lmCcLTs

Does it make the same sound with the tires off the ground?