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Extra plug by VMS?

Discussion in 'Roadster' started by heychubs, Jun 25, 2015.

  1. heychubs

    heychubs Member

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    So yesterday, I came out of PetSmart and I couldn't unlock my car door with the key fob. I tried several times, and then finally just used the manual lock underneath the drivers side door. Once I opened the car, none of the electronics turned on. I tried to open and close the charge port door several times, lock and unlock from the door switches and key fob, but nothing turned the car on. Finally I remembered a post about unplugging the VMS from underneath the passenger side of the dashboard. I did that, and it worked! After pulling the power cables out of the Black and Blue plugs, the car rebooted itself and allowed me to lock/unlock and drive off.

    While I was pulling out those power plugs, I noticed one end that was not plugged into anything. Does anyone know what it is? Is this normal??

    I've attached some pictures of the loose plug.

    IMG_20150624_195759.jpg IMG_20150624_195826.jpg
     
  2. Panicopticon

    Panicopticon Member

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    That looks like the CAN diagnostic connector. Unless you have an OVMS it should just be tucked up in the cable loom by the VMS. Tesla uses it to update firmware and diagnose things.
     
  3. m0rph

    m0rph Member

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    Indeed, what Panicopticon says is correct
     
  4. markwj

    markwj Moderator, Asia Pacific

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    After all these years, I am assuming that spare connector is provided by Tesla specifically for OVMS to plug into. We occasionally allow Tesla to borrow it for their laptop firmware update process, but the primary purpose is OVMS :biggrin:

    FYI: I have been warned that the VMS connectors are 'delicate'. Easy to snap the plastic clips, but tough to pull out. Tesla have a special tool to remove these connectors cleanly. So, take care.

    P.S. I had exactly the same problem in my roadster, years ago. Same solution, although my reset was done by Tesla Rangers 10 minutes after I called them (my office is rather close to the service centre).
     
  5. GVTesla

    GVTesla Member

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    Lol :biggrin:
     
  6. heychubs

    heychubs Member

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    Ahhh, good to know guys. Thank you! I'll tuck it back under and tape it so it's not flopping around. Now I know where to go when I finally get a chance to tackle the OVMS install. :D
     
  7. Panicopticon

    Panicopticon Member

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    You should just be able to gently tuck it back between the VMS and the firewall. Probably don't even need tape.
     
  8. lmore

    lmore Member

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    Interesting, could you please provide the link for this trick. The picture shows more than one plug on the VMS so would be nice to know which to pull.

    Will this trick or do you know another trick to power the car from the 12 volts battery when the service disconnect is unplugged (which means that the main battery is shut down)?

    This is the story: I have been stupid and pulled the orange service disconnect plug to disconnect the main battery. I put the plug in the trunk and closed the trunk.
    Now my key won't physically open the trunk (I put in the key hole but it will not turn) and the car is completely shut down so I cannot use the button on my key to open the trunk either.
    The easiest solution to this would be if I could power the car from the 12 volts battery to recognize when I push my key button to open the trunk.
     
  9. Panicopticon

    Panicopticon Member

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    #9 Panicopticon, Jun 26, 2015
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2015
    Let me think about that and have a look at some diagrams. Get back to you in a bit.

    Looking at the diagrams, for the 2010 LHD and RHD, at the VMS there should be two wires for the trunk latch, a RED (FHC48, pin 8) and a GREEN w/ red strip (FHC48, pin 23). FHC48 is the blue connector at the VMS. If I understand the diagram right these should actuate the trunk release. I suspect if you grab a decent 12V battery (spare, jump pack, something like that) and power the latch directly the trunk will open. Possibly. Or I've read the diagram wrong and something bad will happen, I don't think that's the case, but that's the risk you take when you ask for advice on the internet.

    The connector is an one of these which should aid in identifying the correct pins numbers.

    I'd probably toss a multi meter accross the pins and check the resistance. I'd expect to see at least a few hundred K ohm... but maybe not quite that much? If I get motivated, I can go probe mine.

    The trunk release works by using a motor/actuator to pull a cable, with releases the latches. There is also a manual pull for the cable inside the trunk (in case someone gets trapped in there) -- that doesn't do you a lot of good. However, you may be able to get to the trunk release cable from under the car. The manuals talk about it being in the vicinity of the left hand-side tail light.
     
  10. slcasner

    slcasner Member

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    That should not be true. I'm pretty sure the linkage between the trunk key lock and the latches is purely mechanical. If the key won't turn at all, then it might just be that the cylinder is binding. Try turning the key over to use the other side. (My key only turns in the "ignition" switch if it is button-side up.)

    Remember that you need to turn the key counter-clockwise to unlatch the trunk, and that it does require a fairly significant force.

    (My story: I received a call late one evening from a Roadster-owning friend who had locked his key in the trunk. He was able to pick the lock, but was not sure which way to turn and how much force was reasonable to apply. I could tell him, then he successfully opened the trunk.)
     
  11. heychubs

    heychubs Member

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    Nice, even easier!

    This is the link I read. It tells you the order in which to unplug the two plugs. How and where to pull plug / power to the VDS?

    Also, the key lock on the trunk is mechanical. It doesn't require any power to open it. Just insert your key, and turn it counter clockwise to open your trunk.
     

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