Gen 3 door handle fix questions

[tnixa]

I have a 2020 Model S and the driver front door handle has been acting up the past few days. It was beeping and moving in/out erratically and then popping open the door automatically after closing.

Currently it is stuck out about half an inch and it doesn’t make any noises. I can pull the handle out manually but the door will not open so I have to climb in through the passenger side to get in.

I have been researching this problem and I’m contemplating trying to fix it myself and I have some questions…

1. How much does Tesla typically charge for the repair?
2. Is the problem typically something in the door handle assembly or the door handle control module?
3. Are the door handle assemblies the same for front and back? I’m seeing the same part numbers (1100299-00-A) but also “LF”, “LR”, “RF”, “RR” markings
4. Are the door handle control modules unique for each door? I’m seeing mostly part number 1069651-00-D.

I’m thinking to order the parts and have them on hand before opening up the door so I don’t have to open up and put back the door multiple times.

 

[tnixa]

I just ran calibration on the door handle and it moved all the way out then went back in about halfway and stopped and the calibration failed. I tried it several times but it always did the same thing. I am able to push it back in all the way manually. The door will still not open when I pull on the handle manually.

 

[tnixa]

I swapped the driver rear module with the driver front module and then I did a calibration and it gave an error: "Failed to communicate with the door handle controller. Ensure it is correctly connected and try again" I tried replugging several times but I'm always getting that error. If I swap the modules back I get the origianl error of "DHRD calibration failed. Handle stalled too early while presenting or retracting. Make sure there is no obstacle on the handle's path as it moves". I confirmed the part numbers were the same for both modules (1069651-00-D). I'm really confused as to why I get that "Failed to communicate..." error assuming the modules are the same part.

 

[AugustF]

I had the same problem. Went to service and they replaced the handle for about 500 bucks i believe.

 

[tnixa]

I ended up buying an oem door handle assembly on eBay for $200 and I just got done with the repair. I don’t see anything obviously wrong with the old one except for some rust on the gears. I’ll try to figure out the root cause of the failure later.

The repair was not that bad. I followed the video below which was really helpful!!

 

[KalJoMoS]

I'm really confused as to why I get that "Failed to communicate..." error assuming the modules are the same part.

It’s because all modules are programmed to that specific side/unit. They have dedicated procedures after they change out individual modules/units. Have you read about the hidden “service menu” section in the car’s manual? If you reprogram that new changed part then the car can identify it and starts to communicate.

 

[tnixa]

It’s because all modules are programmed to that specific side/unit. They have dedicated procedures after they change out individual modules/units. Have you read about the hidden “service menu” section in the car’s manual? If you reprogram that new changed part then the car can identify it and starts to communicate.

Yes, I was in the hidden service menu to do the door handle calibration. I didn't see any options in there to program the modules but I was wondering if I would have done a full software reinstall if that would have programmed the module.

 

[Cheburashka]

There is an issue with these gen3 handles where the harness or hall sensor fails, so the handle doesn't pass calibration and appears to be stuck.

 

[tnixa]

There is an issue with these gen3 handles where the harness or hall sensor fails, so the handle doesn't pass calibration and appears to be stuck.

Right, I tested the motor in my bad assembly with a 5V power supply and it went in and out fine. So seems like the hall sensor might be the issue but I didn't know of a good way to test it without taking another door apart.

 

[KalJoMoS]

I didn't see any options in there to program the modules but I was wondering if I would have done a full software reinstall if that would have programmed the module.

Why then you did not do that, it does guides you to re-install the software if you change some of the units? Programming is only available in ToolBox, this option in the car has gradually appeared there so that you can do the same at the car.
Here is the section in the manual as well:

 

[tnixa]

The net is that my door handle worked after replacing the door handle assembly. So something inside the assembly must be the problem. The motor seems ok so I'm guessing its the hall sensor.

 

[ILLCOMM]

I just pulled my door apart and fixed the metal flipper thingy that breaks. Here are some notes for a future searcher...

- I found taking the window off to be *so* far superior to the hack of trying to get the topmost nut off the stud without window removal. My poor knuckles.
- My 2017 75D had an unused white connector in the door wiring harness that massively confused me when I went to put everything back together. (see photo / red arrow)
- Most of the videos on the internet are of the early door handle units (gen 1 and maybe gen 2?). I think mine was actually gen 3. the instructions are totally different. make sure you follow directions for your generation!!!
- make sure all the holes on the door sheetmetal that have tape over them get re-taped. apparently this matters to the pressure change detector in the side-impact airbag sensor.

 

[ILLCOMM]

I ended up buying an oem door handle assembly on eBay for $200 and I just got done with the repair. I don’t see anything obviously wrong with the old one except for some rust on the gears. I’ll try to figure out the root cause of the failure later.

The repair was not that bad. I followed the video below which was really helpful!!

The newer one only has one wire that plugs into the door handle control unit? The one I rebuilt from my car this weekend had two (along with the silver motor) just like one of your pictures. I assume the eBay kit is the one with a black motor and only 1 wire? Interesting...

Edit: never mind. I think you just hadn't swapped in the handle itself and the light that gets connected!

 

[tnixa]

The newer one only has one wire that plugs into the door handle control unit? The one I rebuilt from my car this weekend had two (along with the silver motor) just like one of your pictures. I assume the eBay kit is the one with a black motor and only 1 wire? Interesting...

The new one has the black motor and its wire plugging into the hall sensor. I had to remove the chrome handle from my old one and transfer it over. The handle has a wire that plugs into the hall sensor as well.

 

[KalJoMoS]

I just pulled my door apart and fixed the metal flipper thingy that breaks. Here are some notes for a future searcher...

- I found taking the window off to be *so* far superior to the hack of trying to get the topmost nut off the stud without window removal. My poor knuckles.

If you did removed the window then how did you assured that you aligned it back as it was to eliminate this well known wind noise issue on front doors? I have opened up my front doors several times and never touched the window during removing or installing the handle.