Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Inexperienced 19 Year Old interested in repairing a salvage Model S!

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
I've gone to auction with 30k cash in the south west united states... Van Nuys and several other Tesla heavy auctions and have yet to see even a garbage old 60 come across for less than 28k and it was a total disaster. I do envy a 23k AP1 car, although curious whats wrong with it lol

EnlargeImages

Here it is. Actually $24,500 with the fees not 23k

Also got this one today for $17,200. https://www.copart.com/lot/38532638
 
  • Informative
Reactions: dhrivnak
EnlargeImages

Here it is. Actually $24,500 with the fees not 23k

Also got this one today for $17,200. https://www.copart.com/lot/38532638

Great information and thank you for sharing the prices in your case! No better way to see what I'm in for other than the experience of others! I don't know if you plan to repair or part out that particular P85D assuming you purchased it, if you plan to repair it, I'd love to hear what damage you found on it when all is said and done.

From the photos, it seems that the frame held up and has no significant damage that would need to be repaired.
 
EnlargeImages

Here it is. Actually $24,500 with the fees not 23k

Also got this one today for $17,200. https://www.copart.com/lot/38532638

Nice, thanks for linking!

First one seems ok at glance but airbags deploy and the crumple zone seems shoved back into the subframe, as the wheels seem deeper into the fender than they should be as well as the sunroof being ajar as if the car is suddenly "shorter"... Also you have driver side rear QP damage, so thats 10k right there and a part Tesla wont even sell you. They can be found 3rd party as im sure you're well aware but the rivet lines are comically thin and id love to see someone who has had success in using a salvage QP to repair their car.

Second one theres just so much going on there its hard to begin. Two door skins, a rear QP: ~15-20K depending on parts sourcing, again frame seems pushed back because the car's stance in the front is higher than the rear, as if it was jacked up. at 17200 though its actually a decent deal.

Anyway, always fun to look at these, i miss this industry


EDIT: I'm not being an ass here, just pointing out FIXING stuff. I believe you part your cars out so I'd imagine you are less specific on these kinds of things from a "repair" standpoint. This is all good fun so don't take me too seriously.
 
Last edited:
Nice, thanks for linking!

First one seems ok at glance but airbags deploy and the crumple zone seems shoved back into the subframe, as the wheels seem deeper into the fender than they should be as well as the sunroof being ajar as if the car is suddenly "shorter"... Also you have driver side rear QP damage, so thats 10k right there and a part Tesla wont even sell you. They can be found 3rd party as im sure you're well aware but the rivet lines are comically thin and id love to see someone who has had success in using a salvage QP to repair their car.

Second one theres just so much going on there its hard to begin. Two door skins, a rear QP: ~15-20K depending on parts sourcing, again frame seems pushed back because the car's stance in the front is higher than the rear, as if it was jacked up. at 17200 though its actually a decent deal.

Anyway, always fun to look at these, i miss this industry


EDIT: I'm not being an ass here, just pointing out FIXING stuff. I believe you part your cars out so I'd imagine you are less specific on these kinds of things from a "repair" standpoint. This is all good fun so don't take me too seriously.

I don't believe the subframe is pushed towards the back. The suspension for sure is and probably damaged the subframe but I'm not worried about that. It's just taking off parts and putting new/used ones back on. Frame rails and strut towers look fine.

The quarter panel is 100% repairable without having to replace is.

Airbags are all on bolts so no big deal. I have all of them.

The second one will mainly be remove and replace. If you want, I'll keep you updates on both.
 
I don't believe the subframe is pushed towards the back. The suspension for sure is and probably damaged the subframe but I'm not worried about that. It's just taking off parts and putting new/used ones back on. Frame rails and strut towers look fine.

The quarter panel is 100% repairable without having to replace is.

Airbags are all on bolts so no big deal. I have all of them.

The second one will mainly be remove and replace. If you want, I'll keep you updates on both.

Yeah I'd be interested, I find all this stuff fascinating.
 
First one seems ok at glance but airbags deploy and the crumple zone seems shoved back into the subframe, as the wheels seem deeper into the fender than they should be as well as the sunroof being ajar as if the car is suddenly "shorter"... Also you have driver side rear QP damage, so thats 10k right there and a part Tesla wont even sell you. They can be found 3rd party as im sure you're well aware but the rivet lines are comically thin and id love to see someone who has had success in using a salvage QP to repair their car.

How does rear QP damage come out to 10k? I see great condition parts on eBay for 900. Second, you make a great point about the crumple zone, It looks as if the frame was damaged like you mentioned with the sunroof being bent/broken.

Second one theres just so much going on there its hard to begin. Two door skins, a rear QP: ~15-20K depending on parts sourcing, again frame seems pushed back because the car's stance in the front is higher than the rear, as if it was jacked up. at 17200 though its actually a decent deal.

Where is the rear QP damage? Just from looking at the photos, it seems to be in good condition.

FYI: Not trying to be rude in the least bit, asking these questions will help me learn more :)
 
Another question here regarding the sourcing of parts/painting. If you can't find the part in the right color online, what would be the estimate to get it painted by a local place? Could they get the color right?
 
The biggest issue with CoPart and Tesla's are the people who buy them on IAAI or elsewhere, take what they need/want from the car (and super shady people even strip the battery pack and put the empty pack back in), make it look as good as possible without putting out much if any money, and that that trash on CoPart. You then bid on it from 3000 miles away none the wiser, only to take delivery of a car you got ripped off on with zero recourse. CoPart doesn't give a crap about any of this type of stuff and they just say you should have inspected the vehicle, sold as-is-where-is, yada yada. They get their cut, scam or not.

There are people who will "fix" Tesla body damage, also, who don't know enough to do a proper job, too. There are decent reasons replacing a rear quarter on a Tesla costs ~$10k. It's a hell of a job when done right. These aren't bolt on parts.

Pretty much anyone who asks me if they should mess with a salvage Tesla I tell them the same thing: If you have unlimited time, money, and patience then it can be done. If you lack any of the above, be prepared to be extremely frustrated, go tens of thousands over budget, months/years over estimated time, etc. And that's if you don't get screwed right out of the gate.
 
I don't think anyone has explicitly said this yet:

@Dvb51, listen to @wk057. Go back and look through his post history. Read his website. He is the most knowledgeable person about Tesla vehicles that does not work for Tesla. He knows more about Tesla vehicles that the vast majority of people who DO work for Tesla. The man knows what he is talking about.

I would rather work 2-3 jobs to save up ~$35k and buy a nice used Tesla than work just as hard for just as long (or more) to try to learn to fix one up and likely fail.
 
  • Love
  • Like
Reactions: .jg. and kavyboy
There are people who will "fix" Tesla body damage, also, who don't know enough to do a proper job, too. There are decent reasons replacing a rear quarter on a Tesla costs ~$10k. It's a hell of a job when done right. These aren't bolt on parts.

Are you able to elaborate on that?:confused:

Again, I'm specifically asking for advice here on what to avoid when purchasing a salvage tesla rather than to avoid it entirely. Unless someone has a better idea than spending 40k on a very old Tesla model that is ;)
 
Last edited:
Are you able to elaborate on that?:confused:

Again, I'm specifically asking for advice here on what to avoid when purchasing a salvage tesla rather than to avoid it entirely. Unless someone has a better idea than spending 40k on a very old Tesla model that is ;)

My 2013 is "old" and is probably worth 37k or so... i love that friggin car. Nothing wrong with older models if inspected properly. Infact, I recently rented a new AP2 for a trip and hated it, it was so tame compared to my P85.

Specifically? The QP is all one piece of paper thin aluminum, so it crumples/bends easily. First problem is finding an aftermarket one thats not completely messed up from someone else hitting it OR removing it. They are NOT easy to remove correctly... infact they werent designed to be removed at all. I wish i still had mine to take a picture, there is a thumb sized "lip" around the entire part to-be-welded to the car. When you pop those welds you're left with dozens of holes all around, think like punching holes in paper along the margin. Re-installing a QP is not a weld job, its a cement/rivet job. It will literally never look the same, mine doesnt. On top of the fact Tesla wont sell you one you HAVE to go aftermarket. Any number of things can go wrong with shipping a QP from a supplier, including UPS mucking it up by putting it down too hard.

I'm keenly sensitive to QP problems as you can tell, it literally DOUBLED my collision estimate when they said they wanted to replace it. Absolutely maddening.

Enjoy this professional install of a QP:

 
My 2013 is "old" and is probably worth 37k or so... i love that friggin car. Nothing wrong with older models if inspected properly. Infact, I recently rented a new AP2 for a trip and hated it, it was so tame compared to my P85.

Specifically? The QP is all one piece of paper thin aluminum, so it crumples/bends easily. First problem is finding an aftermarket one thats not completely messed up from someone else hitting it OR removing it. They are NOT easy to remove correctly... infact they werent designed to be removed at all. I wish i still had mine to take a picture, there is a thumb sized "lip" around the entire part to-be-welded to the car. When you pop those welds you're left with dozens of holes all around, think like punching holes in paper along the margin. Re-installing a QP is not a weld job, its a cement/rivet job. It will literally never look the same, mine doesnt. On top of the fact Tesla wont sell you one you HAVE to go aftermarket. Any number of things can go wrong with shipping a QP from a supplier, including UPS mucking it up by putting it down too hard.

I'm keenly sensitive to QP problems as you can tell, it literally DOUBLED my collision estimate when they said they wanted to replace it. Absolutely maddening.

Enjoy this professional install of a QP:


Thank you so much for the response, I'll definitely watch the video! I had looked at some quarter panel repair/replacements for normal cars that aren't built with aluminum, I'm assuming this procedure would be different? :p

Edit?: I was under the impression welding would be involved like the videos I had seen before; In 3 Tesla QP replacement videos I've watched (including yours), It seems like all they are doing is applying panel adhesive?
 
Last edited:
OP: you say that you want to learn but you've received TWO answers from wk057, great guru of all things Tesla, and you still aren't listening. That inattention makes us think you are not serious about wanting to learn.

My suggestion is to read all of his posts and then come back for any remaining questions. Which, if you've paid attention while reading what wk057 says, won't be many.

Good luck!
 
  • Like
Reactions: PaulusdB
OP: you say that you want to learn but you've received TWO answers from wk057, great guru of all things Tesla, and you still aren't listening. That inattention makes us think you are not serious about wanting to learn.

My suggestion is to read all of his posts and then come back for any remaining questions. Which, if you've paid attention while reading what wk057 says, won't be many.

Good luck!

I've read every response from wk057; here I am asking questions and you act is if I'm not looking to learn? :D The gist of what I got from wk057 was that it's a bad idea and will cost more than a used car. I simply don't see that being possible. Even if the salvaged car was completely totalled, I cannot see the repair end up coming out $70k+(The price of it used). With that being said, I am looking to buy a salvage with ideally minimal damage and avoid scams like mentioned before. Instead of flat out saying "don't do it", it would be nice to provide tips for analyzing auctions to prevent myself from ending up in the situation described..

Edit: To add a little more here regarding scams, currently I'm under the presumption that if the car is marked under "S" or "R" on Copart, you are essentially assured that when it leaves, the battery is installed in the car (hence it being able to start and show mileage.)
 
Last edited:
I've read every response from wk057; here I am asking questions and you act is if I'm not looking to learn? :D The gist of what I got from wk057 was that it's a bad idea and will cost more than a used car. I simply don't see that being possible. Even if the salvaged car was completely totalled, I cannot see the repair end up coming out $70k+(The price of it used). With that being said, I am looking to buy a salvage with ideally minimal damage and avoid scams like mentioned before. Instead of flat out saying "don't do it", it would be nice to provide tips for analyzing auctions to prevent myself from ending up in the situation described..

Edit: To add a little more here regarding scams, currently I'm under the presumption that if the car is marked under "S" or "R" on Copart, you are essentially assured that when it leaves, the battery is installed in the car (hence it being able to start and show mileage.)

You don't see what being possible? Guy has like 15+ teslas in his warehouse and another several hundred on his private network. If I was buying a salvage Tesla I'd talk to him first. Do you understand why insurance companies total cars? Because there is a VALUE threshold in which it is too costly to repair than replace. So yes, often times the repair can come out to be 70k+ on a 100k car... which is why its at auction in the first place (i was in this industry, I know this).

And your edit directly contradicts you taking WKs comments seriously. He literally said IAAI and Copart provide NO ASSURANCES whatsoever. It might have had a battery when you bid on it, and it gets delivered without one. You are assured nothing at auction. Period.

edit: here is a used tesla i found in 60 seconds. Model S / 2014 / Grey - ec97d | Only Used Tesla

I dont even condone that site, but there it is. 42k private party... haggle down to 40k and you've got a used tesla!
 
You don't see what being possible? Guy has like 15+ teslas in his warehouse and another several hundred on his private network. If I was buying a salvage Tesla I'd talk to him first. Do you understand why insurance companies total cars? Because there is a VALUE threshold in which it is too costly to repair than replace. So yes, often times the repair can come out to be 70k+ on a 100k car... which is why its at auction in the first place (i was in this industry, I know this).

And your edit directly contradicts you taking WKs comments seriously. He literally said IAAI and Copart provide NO ASSURANCES whatsoever. It might have had a battery when you bid on it, and it gets delivered without one. You are assured nothing at auction. Period.

edit: here is a used tesla i found in 60 seconds. Model S / 2014 / Grey - ec97d | Only Used Tesla

I dont even condone that site, but there it is. 42k private party... haggle down to 40k and you've got a used tesla!

Looking for P85D, I'm sorry if it doesn't come off that way, but I DO take everyone's comments seriously, it's a big project with lots of money involved and here's a bunch of people who know more than I do. :)
 
I wonder whether buying crashed Tesla's and parting them out until you earn enough money to buy a rebuilt salvage Tesla would be a faster path to a working Tesla than attempting to put one together yourself (after all, taking things apart is much easier for someone without experience than putting them together).
 
  • Informative
Reactions: Dvb51
Aeeeyyy, got a little confirmation bias going on there, demundus? He says he's inexperienced, and you take that seriously?

Give the guy some credit. Maybe he does have what it takes. Sure he'll be competing with others buying salvage cars (wk57) but everyone has a right. I'll bet he can do it, especially if he finds one with little or no frame damage.
 
  • Love
Reactions: Dvb51
Aeeeyyy, got a little confirmation bias going on there, demundus? He says he's inexperienced, and you take that seriously?

Give the guy some credit. Maybe he does have what it takes. Sure he'll be competing with others buying salvage cars (wk57) but everyone has a right. I'll bet he can do it, especially if he finds one with little or no frame damage.

Maybe, maybe he can do it and drive away happy... odds seemed stacked against him by his own admission and what we all know to be true about salvage Teslas and work needed.

I guess my train of thought has been -- If he finds a car that is "easier" to repair, its not going to be in his price range. it'll get bid up appropriately. Might as well NOT get the P85D and just enjoy another version of Tesla used/CPO. You can swap in a P85D and a packfuse later if you have some kind of itch to modify and root... Anyway, just my opinion, especially after dealing with my cars issues.