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Installed a 14-30 Exterior box

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tk1971

tk1971

Member
Sep 20, 2019
99
101
Pasadena, CA
#1
I installed a locking electrical box outside for the 14-30 receptacle outlet for the Y's charging cable.

Everything is wired up with 6 gauge wire for future growth if/when needed. The only reason I went for the 14-30 Gen 2 NEMA connector is because that's all that was in stock at the time I ordered. 240V/24A is not bad for my needs.

IMG_5526 by tk_1971, on Flickr

IMG_5528 by tk_1971, on Flickr

IMG_5531 by tk_1971, on Flickr
 
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#2
I want to install something similar, what are the inside dimensions of your lockable electrical box? The make, model, and where you bought it would be very helpful too. Thanks for any info you can provide.
 
#3
jhoyle50 said:
I want to install something similar, what are the inside dimensions of your lockable electrical box? The make, model, and where you bought it would be very helpful too. Thanks for any info you can provide.
Click to expand...

The outside dimensions are 10"x10"x6" and it's a 16 gauge (which is about 1/16" thick), so subtract 1/8" from each dimension for the internal dimensions. It's a basic hinged NEMA enclosure with a slotted-head quarter-turn cam lock. Mine happens to be made by a company called BUD Industries.

It doesn't have a keyed lock, so the closing mechanism was replaced with a generic 3/4" diameter cabinet lock. The cabinet lock comes with extra cams, so the long straight one was bent (via a vise,hammer and eyeballing) to the correct shape to allow for proper locking. The box itself was modified by cutting out about a 1/2" wide piece at the bottom of the box so that the wire for the charging head can hang down from it. The cut edge at the bottom of the box was smoothed out with a file/sandpaper and strip of rubberized edge trim molding strip was installed to protect the wire that stuck out.

I think for interior dimensions, even 8x8" would work. It's the depth that is important IMO, which is why I got a 6" deep box. 240V plugs are deep and require boxes that can accommodate it, the 6 gauge wiring, and the Tesla charging cable plug head, so I wouldn't go for a 4" dept of box. It's basically a box inside a box with a socket for the plug.

Sorry, due to a recent incident in which I was was suspected of being a shill, I'm not providing links.

You can probably pick everything up at your local hardware store.

Good luck.
 
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#4
tk1971 said:
The outside dimensions are 10"x10"x6" and it's a 16 gauge (which is about 1/16" thick), so subtract 1/8" from each dimension for the internal dimensions. It's a basic hinged NEMA enclosure with a slotted-head quarter-turn cam lock. Mine happens to be made by a company called BUD Industries.

It doesn't have a keyed lock, so the closing mechanism was replaced with a generic 3/4" diameter cabinet lock. The cabinet lock comes with extra cams, so the long straight one was bent (via a vise,hammer and eyeballing) to the correct shape to allow for proper locking. The box itself was modified by cutting out about a 1/2" wide piece at the bottom of the box so that the wire for the charging head can hang down from it. The cut edge at the bottom of the box was smoothed out with a file/sandpaper and strip of rubberized edge trim molding strip was installed to protect the wire that stuck out.

I think for interior dimensions, even 8x8" would work. It's the depth that is important IMO, which is why I got a 6" deep box. 240V plugs are deep and require boxes that can accommodate it, the 6 gauge wiring, and the Tesla charging cable plug head, so I wouldn't go for a 4" dept of box. It's basically a box inside a box with a socket for the plug.

Sorry, due to a recent incident in which I was was suspected of being a shill, I'm not providing links.

You can probably pick everything up at your local hardware store.

Good luck.
Click to expand...

Wow this is awesome. Thanks for sharing and sorry about your incident. But this is great and I definitely want to do something similar. Really appreciate the post.
 
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#5
tk1971 said:
I installed a locking electrical box outside for the 14-30 receptacle outlet for the Y's charging cable.

Everything is wired up with 6 gauge wire for future growth if/when needed. The only reason I went for the 14-30 Gen 2 NEMA connector is because that's all that was in stock at the time I ordered. 240V/24A is not bad for my needs.

IMG_5526 by tk_1971, on Flickr

IMG_5528 by tk_1971, on Flickr

IMG_5531 by tk_1971, on Flickr
Click to expand...

Primo! That is nicely done and excellent use what comes free with the car. Good job.
 
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#6
SilverString said:
Primo! That is nicely done and excellent use what comes free with the car. Good job.
Click to expand...
tk1971 said:
The outside dimensions are 10"x10"x6" and it's a 16 gauge (which is about 1/16" thick), so subtract 1/8" from each dimension for the internal dimensions. It's a basic hinged NEMA enclosure with a slotted-head quarter-turn cam lock. Mine happens to be made by a company called BUD Industries.

It doesn't have a keyed lock, so the closing mechanism was replaced with a generic 3/4" diameter cabinet lock. The cabinet lock comes with extra cams, so the long straight one was bent (via a vise,hammer and eyeballing) to the correct shape to allow for proper locking. The box itself was modified by cutting out about a 1/2" wide piece at the bottom of the box so that the wire for the charging head can hang down from it. The cut edge at the bottom of the box was smoothed out with a file/sandpaper and strip of rubberized edge trim molding strip was installed to protect the wire that stuck out.

I think for interior dimensions, even 8x8" would work. It's the depth that is important IMO, which is why I got a 6" deep box. 240V plugs are deep and require boxes that can accommodate it, the 6 gauge wiring, and the Tesla charging cable plug head, so I wouldn't go for a 4" dept of box. It's basically a box inside a box with a socket for the plug.

Sorry, due to a recent incident in which I was was suspected of being a shill, I'm not providing links.

You can probably pick everything up at your local hardware store.

Good luck.
Click to expand...
tk1971 said:
The outside dimensions are 10"x10"x6" and it's a 16 gauge (which is about 1/16" thick), so subtract 1/8" from each dimension for the internal dimensions. It's a basic hinged NEMA enclosure with a slotted-head quarter-turn cam lock. Mine happens to be made by a company called BUD Industries.

It doesn't have a keyed lock, so the closing mechanism was replaced with a generic 3/4" diameter cabinet lock. The cabinet lock comes with extra cams, so the long straight one was bent (via a vise,hammer and eyeballing) to the correct shape to allow for proper locking. The box itself was modified by cutting out about a 1/2" wide piece at the bottom of the box so that the wire for the charging head can hang down from it. The cut edge at the bottom of the box was smoothed out with a file/sandpaper and strip of rubberized edge trim molding strip was installed to protect the wire that stuck out.

I think for interior dimensions, even 8x8" would work. It's the depth that is important IMO, which is why I got a 6" deep box. 240V plugs are deep and require boxes that can accommodate it, the 6 gauge wiring, and the Tesla charging cable plug head, so I wouldn't go for a 4" dept of box. It's basically a box inside a box with a socket for the plug.

Sorry, due to a recent incident in which I was was suspected of being a shill, I'm not providing links.

You can probably pick everything up at your local hardware store.

Good luck.
Click to expand...
Thanks for info ! How many mph charge do you get with 24 amps? I have an unused 240 v 30 amp breaker circuit about 10 ft from where I need an outlet.
 
#7
jhoyle50 said:
Thanks for info ! How many mph charge do you get with 24 amps? I have an unused 240 v 30 amp breaker circuit about 10 ft from where I need an outlet.
Click to expand...
Depends on the model. My MS 100D gets about 18 mph with a NEMA 14-30 but the M3 charges faster. This is half what you would get with a 60 amp breaker and the Tesla HPWC. Certainly adequate unless you have unique needs, and like the OP you can use what you got with the car, and in your case what's already installed in your house.
 
#10
NY_Rob said:
Nice work @tk1971, you did a lot of mods on your Bolt too... the trailer hitch looks great.
Click to expand...

Yep, being one of the first to get a new model car isn't easy for mods/accessories. Lots of trial and error fitting stuff up. The Y reminds me a lot of my Bolt back in January 2017 in this sense. Imagine my surprise when I had to re-buy the Rola cargo organizer after I sold the exact same one from my Bolt (in favor of storing the spare tire in the sub-trunk). I still have the 2 hitches for the Bolt after having to re-buy a hitch with the higher rating (Drawtite) when my bike rack bent the Curt hitch.

Luckily, we have forums and FB to share our findings.
 
#14
I see a little light through the top of your enclosure - did you do something to stop water from entering the enclosure? I read in the manual that the portable charger body cannot get wet, so I love what you built, and I'm using it as a model, but was thinking of sealing the top for no water ingress.
 
#15
BreatheEasier said:
I see a little light through the top of your enclosure - did you do something to stop water from entering the enclosure? I read in the manual that the portable charger body cannot get wet, so I love what you built, and I'm using it as a model, but was thinking of sealing the top for no water ingress.
Click to expand...

The knockout templates were sealed with silicone and I made a stainless steel cover to go on the top and down the sides of the entire box. It's one continuous piece that was bent to go down the sides. That's also secured with silicone.
 
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#16
tk1971 said:
The knockout templates were sealed with silicone and I made a stainless steel cover to go on the top and down the sides of the entire box. It's one continuous piece that was bent to go down the sides. That's also secured with silicone.
Click to expand...

Makes sense, thanks for sharing and excellent job! I'm actually using your install pics to discuss with my electrician ;-)
 
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#17
it’s not code compliant. I would suggest this paired with a gfci breaker and 6 gauge wire. In your case, you could get the enclosure and swap the receptacle in it out for a thirty amp and gfci breaker.


https://www.lowes.com/pd/Eaton-50-Amp-GFCI-Receptacles-Overhead-Temporary-Power-Panel/302757


I would at least put what you have on a gfci breaker. The metal box isn’t designed to be used outdoors (outdoor boxes do not have knockout holes on the top or sides of their boxes). Also, it isn’t bonded correctly, but is conductive, which essential means there is a chance it could become live at mains voltage should you ever have an incident with your wiring,
 
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#18
qdeathstar said:
it’s not code compliant. I would suggest this paired with a gfci breaker and 6 gauge wire. In your case, you could get the enclosure and swap the receptacle in it out for a thirty amp and gfci breaker.


https://www.lowes.com/pd/Eaton-50-Amp-GFCI-Receptacles-Overhead-Temporary-Power-Panel/302757


I would at least put what you have on a gfci breaker. The metal box isn’t designed to be used outdoors (outdoor boxes do not have knockout holes on the top or sides of their boxes). Also, it isn’t bonded correctly, but is conductive, which essential means there is a chance it could become live at mains voltage should you ever have an incident with your wiring,
Click to expand...

That's at least why I'm having a pro do mine...I don't want any risks here. I get why the box was made - the charger cannot get wet, so it needs some way to cover it. So at least a different enclosure plus a GFCI, etc. to be code compliant.
 
#19
qdeathstar said:
it’s not code compliant. I would suggest this paired with a gfci breaker and 6 gauge wire. In your case, you could get the enclosure and swap the receptacle in it out for a thirty amp and gfci breaker.


https://www.lowes.com/pd/Eaton-50-Amp-GFCI-Receptacles-Overhead-Temporary-Power-Panel/302757


I would at least put what you have on a gfci breaker. The metal box isn’t designed to be used outdoors (outdoor boxes do not have knockout holes on the top or sides of their boxes). Also, it isn’t bonded correctly, but is conductive, which essential means there is a chance it could become live at mains voltage should you ever have an incident with your wiring,
Click to expand...

Appreciate the heads up.

Done.

FFB22D7A-63B4-4986-90D3-6153180408EC.jpeg
 
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