Model S 12V battery fail...

[Dr_BTF]

Here's another fine indication of the awesome pre-delivery inspection on "Used" Tesla's bought directly from Tesla. I sat down in my car today to the warm glow of a "12V Battery Needs Service" dashboard reminder on my 2017 P100D with 16,000 miles. This happened THREE DAYS after taking delivery of the vehicle.

Here's my question. What are the downsides of just ordering a drop-in battery from ohmmu and doing it myself? I live over 150 miles from a Tesla Service Center...and I can't be without my car for any period of time. I would also categorize myself as reasonably confident with tools and simple wrenching projects and someone who has "more money than time".

 

[PWlakewood]

Do It yourself so you dont have to bother with the sc. Not really any downside at all. And as far as the pre delivery inspection goes, what exactly were you expecting them to do about something that wasnt an issue at time of delivery?

 

[ucmndd]

Can’t believe Tesla didn’t go full pre-cog and diagnose your battery failure before it happened.

So lame they missed that.

 

[ElectricLove]

Go Ohmmu, easy and will also last a lot longer for you, so you won’t have to deal with this issue again!

 

[dannycamps]

So I have a question about this. What are you supposed to do if the 12V completely fails and you can't get into the car/frunk? I recall reading/seeing in the older pre-refresh cars there was a way you could remove the nosecone and either access jumper points or open the frunk (I don't recall which).

How does this work in the newer cars?

 

[Galinette]

On newer cars you just can’t jumpstart with the nosecone. But you still can open the frunk from the wheel well and access the battery.

 

[beatle]

I just had the frunk torn apart in an attempt to run power to the rear of the car. It was not bad. I did have a few issues getting the plastic panels to sit properly, and working the frunk gasket around is a little tedious, but it is certainly not something I would pay someone to do. +1 to the recommendation to do the 12v battery replacement yourself.

BTW, what is the typical lifespan of the stock unit?

 

[Dr_BTF]

Considering that the tire pressure monitor flashed a low pressure warning when I was 1 mile from leaving the dealer and this warning came up two days after buying the car, I'd like some documentation that any inspection was performed at all. My hunch is that the "70pt inspection" is total BS.

 

[Philgrover]

Surely they'll send out a Ranger to do this for free? They did for mine.

 

[SSedan]

Worth asking if they will cover it.
On the low pressure maybe temps fell since they checked.

On the lithium 12volt, I am not convinced they do enough to protect it from charging while cold. When I reached out 2 years ago I got a very salesman answer and I mean that in the worst possible way.
Have seen some explaination here since that suggests it might actually have a mechanism to cope but would ask the question directly if I lived in a place that gets cold.

Does the battery have a warming system to cope with cold charging?

 

[PWlakewood]

Considering that the tire pressure monitor flashed a low pressure warning when I was 1 mile from leaving the dealer and this warning came up two days after buying the car, I'd like some documentation that any inspection was performed at all. My hunch is that the "70pt inspection" is total BS.

Or the warning wasn't there when they did the inspection.....just sayin

 

[rooter]

Never heard of this "Ohmmu", but I've run a Bioenno LiFePO4 (Lithium-Iron) for years. Expensive, but lasts 10x the time of the CD, -and- inherently is not subject to the fire hazard of Lithium-Ion.

I got a larger capacity but had to make my own custom strap. (out of stainless steel)

Drawback of this is nobody else has done it, so it's not 'popular' in the well-worn-rut sense of the word. Tried to tell them... {der}

 

[mattack4000]

They don’t work if it is below a certain temp!!

 

[iCharge]

I just had the frunk torn apart in an attempt to run power to the rear of the car. It was not bad. I did have a few issues getting the plastic panels to sit properly, and working the frunk gasket around is a little tedious, but it is certainly not something I would pay someone to do. +1 to the recommendation to do the 12v battery replacement yourself.

BTW, what is the typical lifespan of the stock unit?

for what purpose did you have to run power to the back of your car ?

 

[beatle]

Considering that the tire pressure monitor flashed a low pressure warning when I was 1 mile from leaving the dealer and this warning came up two days after buying the car, I'd like some documentation that any inspection was performed at all. My hunch is that the "70pt inspection" is total BS.

I picked up my car in October and the TPMS light came on for me within a few miles as well. 3 of the 4 tires were in the low 40s, so not terrible. As I know tire pressures naturally fall with the mercury, I can give them a pass on this. However, I also had to have a few things done right away: LED on door handle was out, popping noise from steering column, shudder under hard acceleration, water/bugs in tail lights, and a screeching sunroof. All of these were fixed under warranty, but I also wonder what the "70 points" are. Maybe they just inspect the car and say "yeah, that's broken" and then move along?

 

[beatle]

for what purpose did you have to run power to the back of your car ?

Amplifier install.

 

[maximizese]

We purchased our used MS85 from Tesla about a year ago and share your skepticism about the 70 pt inspection. Our car came with a faulty rear window defroster, 4 brand new tires that but 2 were mounted on backwards, a "low coolant" warning when we got home and parked on the driveway, and a finicky TPMS that cuts out half the time. Tesla SC was perfectly happy to address the first 3 items, but I really don't care much about the TPMS.

In my 22 years/400K miles of driving, I've never had an unusually low tire and so I feel like a TPMS that works 1/10th of the time is more than fine with me. What's not fine with me is the crazy expense of dismounting/remounting a tire and the cost of a TPMS sensor and/or receiver...but I come from the days when $50 would buy you a decent 15" performance tire.

For the OP: I would suggest contact Tesla SC for their mobile service where they will come to you. Also, I use a Anker Roav 12V battery monitor every other month in our cars to test any voltage decline. I'd rather replacement the 12V battery before it leaves me stranded. Our Tesla and our Fiat 500e has a 12V battery warning, but our old Lexus Rx400h did not. The day the power window and motorized steering wheel starts to slow down, you have about 3 days to replace the 12V battery.

 

[Only Trons]

12V Lithium battery from BattMobile experiences

See my thoughts on my recent replacement with Ohmmu 12v battery.

 

[xrayangiodoc]

This morning my wife had a 9AM doctor's appointment. I went in the garage to load up the car. Doors won't open. No response to key fob. Car was plugged into the HPWC but chargeport was dark. We took my wife's RAV4 Hybrid to the doctor's office and I contacted Tesla Service. I thought the car's 12 volt battery had succumbed to a sudden failure, perhaps due to an internal short circuit. I requested a Ranger but none were available in Western NY due to CoViD19. A flatbed truck was dispatched. The driver had not been told that the car was playing the part of a brick. I googled the procedure for removing the nosecone so the driver could do a jump start. The vehicle woke up enough for me to disconnect the charge cable and I was able to drive it to the foot of the flatbed and put it into tow mode before the var once again DIED! The range was showing 208 miles at that point. Just before shutdown I was seeing warnings of reduced power and battery needs service pop up. The car was winched up onto the flatbed and transported to Henrietta, NY. A short time later I get the repair proposal: remove and replace High Voltage Battery! The big one! About $100 plus tax under the extended battery warranty. No previous issue with the main battery which was still charging up to 230 miles at 90% SOC. This is a 2014 Model S85 with only about 62k miles. Never ran it to zero. Only Supercharge on trips. I wonder what went wrong. No estimate as to time for repair. I'll post followup when I get it back.

 

[maximizese]

This morning my wife had a 9AM doctor's appointment. I went in the garage to load up the car. Doors won't open. No response to key fob. Car was plugged into the HPWC but chargeport was dark. We took my wife's RAV4 Hybrid to the doctor's office and I contacted Tesla Service. I thought the car's 12 volt battery had succumbed to a sudden failure, perhaps due to an internal short circuit. I requested a Ranger but none were available in Western NY due to CoViD19. A flatbed truck was dispatched. The driver had not been told that the car was playing the part of a brick. I googled the procedure for removing the nosecone so the driver could do a jump start. The vehicle woke up enough for me to disconnect the charge cable and I was able to drive it to the foot of the flatbed and put it into tow mode before the var once again DIED! The range was showing 208 miles at that point. Just before shutdown I was seeing warnings of reduced power and battery needs service pop up. The car was winched up onto the flatbed and transported to Henrietta, NY. A short time later I get the repair proposal: remove and replace High Voltage Battery! The big one! About $100 plus tax under the extended battery warranty. No previous issue with the main battery which was still charging up to 230 miles at 90% SOC. This is a 2014 Model S85 with only about 62k miles. Never ran it to zero. Only Supercharge on trips. I wonder what went wrong. No estimate as to time for repair. I'll post followup when I get it back.

Quite possibly a bad HV battery contactor. I received the same message along with the following:

Regenerative braking system disabled
Car needs service: car may not restart

I had 90K miles on our 11/13 built S85 when the message appeared. The SC also replaced the HVAC drain hose, drive unit (due to excessive noise), and 12V battery. I believe the latter was changed due to the HV battery contactors; the 12V battery seemed just fine and registered 12.7V the week before the warning message appeared. Good luck, a new battery pack is like winning the lottery these days.