Gallery at: My Tesla Model 3 Upgrades Late 2018, I swapped my 2016 MS75d for an M3D. The 3 fits me much better all around, but I felt that it needed a few tweaks. This all started when I decided that I needed to improve rear visibility. I looked at dozens of LCD rear view mirrors and picked the one that had the smallest bezel, largest screen, and decent reviews. It's also a front/rear dashcam, very nice to have a backup since Tesla's software sometimes trips out at the critical moments. Since I needed to pull down the headliner to run the LCD wire to the trunk and for power (I didn't want to tap into the map lights due to other people maybe having issues with it), I decided now was the time to black out the headliner too. My plan was to try to dye it, and if that failed, pull the fabric and reupholster with Alcantara like the MS. The dye actually worked really well, it remains soft like the original fabric, so I saved a bunch of cost, time and hassle not having to redo it. Dashcam power was taken off the cig lighter in the center console, since I figure that one is the most tolerant of any potential abuse. Even though I hard wired the power supply to the wiring of the power port (so it remains free for use), I'm essentially just plugging another device into the port. I designed and 3-d printed a mount to allow the LCD mirror to clip into the original ball joint from the stock mirror. I wired an extra cig port and 4 QC power ports off the cig lighter wiring and plugged a wireless charger into one of them. I carved up the original phone dock plastic on my CNC and placed a high power wireless charger inside it. Easy enough to replace if I need to in the future, and it allows for the most amount of phone space since it's not one of the aftermarket units where a charging pad is bolted on top of the existing shelf. I relocated one of the USB ports to a hidden panel in the car - easy to access to swap out the dashcam memory card, but impossible to find quickly for someone looking to take the card in a rush. The liftgate unit I installed was the one that doesn't need CAN data (It's also less expensive than that one). I think it's pants-on-head-crazy to wire a foreign device to this car's CAN bus, and it's simply unnecessary. Between the trunk lock signal and trunk lights, the controller can get all the state data necessary to figure out when to open and close. The hardest part was getting the kick sensor wires installed in good places. The inside of the bumper has little ribs for rigidity. I drilled a few holes thru them and ziptied the wires to them rather than just rely on the sticky pads - those never last in environments like this. While everything was apart, I took the time to wrap any noisy wires in felt tape to dampen them. The car was quiet before - now it's silent - not a click or creak anywhere. All in all, I'm really happy with the way the upgrades went. The tech at my service center (minor window issue) asked me how I got one with a black interior and said he was waiting for just that before he bought one. I'm really bad at documenting and taking pictures while working on projects like this, but if anyone needs any info on how it was done, let me know and I'm happy to contribute.