Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

P85D COOLING PUMP 4

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
can anyone tell me if it is possible to replace cooling pump #4 on my dual motor p85d without dropping the battery pack. tesla have quoted me $2200 to change a $275 pump and want a full 8 hours to change it the other 3 pumps are accessible and can be done in minutes.
 
  • Informative
Reactions: cwerdna
can anyone tell me if it is possible to replace cooling pump #4 on my dual motor p85d without dropping the battery pack. tesla have quoted me $2200 to change a $275 pump and want a full 8 hours to change it the other 3 pumps are accessible and can be done in minutes.
Between the on line EPC and SM, one should be able to determine the location of the pump.
 
Upvote 0
well i took my car to the SC to have the pack down and pump replaced it turned out to be the one on the cross member on the left side after all which was intermittent. and they charged me £400 for the job which i also could have done in a matter of minutes. not sure how much the pump was i haven't seen the invoice yet
 
Upvote 0
As it was hinted previously I just get one of the pumps changed on mine, 2016 70D and this car only has two of them. So they changed the no.1 pump, left one on the cross member which eventually had internal leak (not any drops outside) and this evolved to corroded wire connector. All the work an parts was around €600. My consumption during this quite cold winter/spring has raised a bit as it seems the efficiency to warm the system was someway hindered. Similar drive back home from service was much more economical.
861FA41F-E7E7-4E6A-BAC8-2BAFE3E65C0F.jpeg

0623519F-F30C-4FB5-A6DF-F7104C9112C2.jpeg

FA8A5D99-84A6-4051-9B4E-50DFFC3CF358.jpeg
 
  • Informative
Reactions: dark cloud
Upvote 0
As it was hinted previously I just get one of the pumps changed on mine, 2016 70D and this car only has two of them. So they changed the no.1 pump, left one on the cross member which eventually had internal leak (not any drops outside) and this evolved to corroded wire connector. All the work an parts was around €600. My consumption during this quite cold winter/spring has raised a bit as it seems the efficiency to warm the system was someway hindered. Similar drive back home from service was much more economical.
View attachment 923002
View attachment 923003
View attachment 923004
What alert did you get for this?
 
Upvote 0
It was not shown to the user, I had the v.10 firmware still on my car and the service section did not revealed any to me. I was only able to confirm that there is two alerts but no possibility to see them. My observation basically was that as I need to warm the battery in wintertime it started to fail on it. Since the beginning of March it failed to warm the battery in a timeframe more than an hour. Basically you loose you SoC but the battery heating and regen was almost nothing, ambient temperature was -4°C. Cabin did warmed up but nothing to the battery. If I was using public AC charger (22kW) the battery did eventually heated as the IC did first showed explanation that it will start to charge as soon the battery is heated. DC 3rd party chargers did also had to wait until the BMS was satisfied.
Basically I was able to start the battery heater (changed last Nov.) but it only lasted app. 20min. And at home on the 240V UMC the normal charging was prolonged for more than 24h - on IC was indication that charging will take +24h. Initially I thought that the Range mode was the culprit but they diagnosed a failure in one of the cooling/heating pumps.
 
Upvote 0