Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Bought a "Unicorn" P100D - Roast me or encourage me? Also have some questions...

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
Thanks :)

have a look at this thread:

LDUs do fail early sometime but with such low miles n probably original LDU , i'm sure it didn't start leaking yet. Remans are known to fail quick...
If it didn't leak coolant inside the drive unit then it didn't do any damage n u can just install coolant delete manifold from QC charge or DIY a bypass
When coolant leaks past the seal then u need to rebuild to dry n clean everything (assuming it didn't corrode stator or inverter)
And of course if the damage is irreversible then u need new LDU...

Dang man! So like it can go from heaven to hell, quick! How come there are no errors or codes thrown when the leaks start? Is there a way to check this without a ton of lifting equipment when I get the car?

Sorry I called your Brian man! You're the brain! Haha my bad! Really appreciate you!
 
  • Funny
Reactions: brainhouston
Thanks :)

have a look at this thread:

LDUs do fail early sometime but with such low miles n probably original LDU , i'm sure it didn't start leaking yet. Remans are known to fail quick...
If it didn't leak coolant inside the drive unit then it didn't do any damage n u can just install coolant delete manifold from QC charge or DIY a bypass
When coolant leaks past the seal then u need to rebuild to dry n clean everything (assuming it didn't corrode stator or inverter)
And of course if the damage is irreversible then u need new LDU...

Dang man! So like it can go from heaven to hell, quick! How come there are no errors or codes thrown when the leaks start? Is there a way to check this without a ton of lifting equipment when I get the car?

Sorry I called your Brian man! You're the brain! Haha my bad! Really app
N2itive is where you need to go. I installed their camber and toe arms on my car and it was an amazing upgrade well worth the money. Other companies make them as well but when looking at the build quality it's hard to not recommend N2itive. You can pay a shop to do the work but it's a pretty straightforward job and the guys at evfixme made a great video of step by step install directions.

Regardless of what brand you buy these are the specs I give my alignment shop. Tires last for ages and it still handles like a rocket sled on rails.

F camber -0.7
F caster 4.0
F toe -0.05
Total F toe -0.10
R camber -0.8
R toe 0.13
Total R toe 0.26
Love it! Thanks for the specific information man!
 
Thank you for sharing, very helpful post. Cool high mileage S for you! Do you recall how long Tesla took to finalize your ownership with the app?

Sounds like I'm in a world or trouble with this low miles and expiring warranty, huh? Man... Some FUD in this thread, but I suppose I asked for it, didn't I? 😊

Thanks for your post!
As soon as I submitted the info the transfer was basically immediate. Maybe a few minutes.

You could be fine. You should just be aware of what you might run into. I went with a non performance model because of the motors but I know I'm still gambling on when the battery decides to go and that's really going to hurt when it does.

So far mine has been a number of smaller things which are not unexpected with that many miles and the fact that I put on about 1K miles a week.(I'm up to 351K now)

If I remember correctly, I got adjustable camber arms for maybe around $300. Had my local garage (cheap) change them and that may have been another $100 and then alignment is like another $100...
 
As soon as I submitted the info the transfer was basically immediate. Maybe a few minutes.

You could be fine. You should just be aware of what you might run into. I went with a non performance model because of the motors but I know I'm still gambling on when the battery decides to go and that's really going to hurt when it does.

So far mine has been a number of smaller things which are not unexpected with that many miles and the fact that I put on about 1K miles a week.(I'm up to 351K now)

If I remember correctly, I got adjustable camber arms for maybe around $300. Had my local garage (cheap) change them and that may have been another $100 and then alignment is like another $100...
Thanks for following up, my friend! If you're gambling, I'm mortgaging my generations, huh? 😊

I got the Performance model and apparently low miles are an issue too!

Did you get the n2tive camber arms? If not, which ones?

Thank you!
 
Congrats! It’s yours now so stop worrying and second guessing and go enjoy it - deal with issues IF they ever even happen. The transfer to your Tesla account should happen quick - mine took 5 minutes once I emailed the bill of sale and registration docs through the app.

I find once the money is spent it is of no use to ask if you got a good deal - invariably someone will tell you that you didn’t and that their friend’s cousin’s girlfriend bought the same car for half the price. You paid what you paid, so forget about that now and just enjoy your new car. And post pics!
 
...deal with issues IF they ever even happen. ...
except LDU, if u do coolant delete before anything fails ur saving urself about 5k

The transfer to your Tesla account should happen quick - mine took 5 minutes once I emailed the bill of sale and registration docs through the app.
i have a hunch that it depends on the docs u submit

My X transfer took 5 min with Registration submitted
My S transfer took 2 days but i submitted only bill of sale (not registered yet)
So i think for official docs (title/registration) its automated but for others it gets kicked back to human review... just my guess based on those 2 cases
 
  • Like
Reactions: blodg1 and Fragger
Congrats! It’s yours now so stop worrying and second guessing and go enjoy it - deal with issues IF they ever even happen. The transfer to your Tesla account should happen quick - mine took 5 minutes once I emailed the bill of sale and registration docs through the app.

I find once the money is spent it is of no use to ask if you got a good deal - invariably someone will tell you that you didn’t and that their friend’s cousin’s girlfriend bought the same car for half the price. You paid what you paid, so forget about that now and just enjoy your new car. And post pics!
Sage advice, my friend. Very true!
 
Thanks for following up, my friend! If you're gambling, I'm mortgaging my generations, huh? 😊

I got the Performance model and apparently low miles are an issue too!

Did you get the n2tive camber arms? If not, which ones?

Thank you!
Hmm, must be my memory wasn't as good. I guess they were $500.
 
I have the exact same car (and also bought it from a small dealer 2 years ago who got it from a doctor... crazy to hear these stories)..the orginal sticker price was $167k

Your battery and drive unit should still be under warranty as it has an 8 year unlimited warranty and the 2016 P100D's were built at the end of 2016.
You may need upgraded cameras (free) if the prior owner did not already upgrade to get FSDbeta
v12 FSD is not yet available for our cars
range of 298 is really good - probably due to lack of miles and just time-based degradation
try to get the rear drive unit checked out - it's still under warranty in case there is liquid intrusion already
FUSC will transfer unless the prior owner transferred to a new car they just bought (honestly, I find this possibility very high)
FSD will transfer unless the prior owner transferred this to a new car they just bought (again, given the timing, I find this likely)
The car is wicked awesome. Pretty much faster than anything on the road except a Plaid S. And, you avoid becoming a commoner with the 3
-HW3 is free upgrade (along with the cameras) since it has FSD. not sure at all what happens if the prior owner transferred FSD to a new car
-try chrome deleting on your car, it will look amazing
-transferring ownership to you: just go through the standard approved route as Tesla provides. It doesn't affect whether FUSC/FSD will transfer. (my car was on the dealer's app and he transferred it to me app to app in real time)


Happy to answer other questions
 

Attachments

  • IMG_9096.jpeg
    IMG_9096.jpeg
    459.4 KB · Views: 68
As others have stated, the timing of this vehicle coming on the market would lead me to believe the prior owner transferred the features. However, In my recent experience buying cars SC01 cars for friends to transfer to new cars, the process was instant. The old car changed to "Pay Per Use Supercharging" as soon as the new car showed "Free Supercharging". This transition is monitored by Tesla and doesn't always work flawlessly which is why they added the 72 hour language to the transfer docs.

What are the last six of the VIN?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Fragger
You like these? People seem to swear by the N2tive or so... 😅
It's a build quality thing, N2itive are Forged aluminum vs other companies using cast aluminum. While cast is strong it's not nearly as durable as forged.

I have the truhart front UCA and they are cast. So far they have worked fine but it's clearly a lower quality part from bushings to the lack of documentation and the missing hole for the suspension connection.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Fragger
I don’t agree when people say low miles are bad at all. I’m sure this car was a garage queen and probably max charged to 80%. The whole calendar aging debate is raging. I say those s batteries from that year calendar age very little if kept 50-80% range. There is a large school of thought that says these batteries won’t degrade much until used. If you are that worried you have until November to drive the crap out of it and hope something goes wrong. The fact remains Tesla is the only entity that has the data on low mileage failures. They will not share this data with anyone. As far as your price I’d feel 100x better buying a car with 17k miles vs 63k miles. All the miles mean is more wear and tear on drive units, suspension and many more charge cycles. You can always see the true capacity of battery by buying a diagnostic tool and scan my Tesla app. 41k seems great to me. Again, these cars don’t have enough history to know when they will fail. Tesla doesn’t want to share this data for some reason. I’ve also seen videos where a model y battery fails at 10k miles in 1 year after purchase. It’s very likely you have a great car that won’t need anything anytime soon. I was talking to someone who had a 2018 p100d for sale w fsd and 36k miles. I was ready to buy at 38 but it did sell. These cars have already depreciated so much that even if you did need a new battery in 2 years, you could drive it non stop for 8 years and still only pay 62k. Some of these sold for 100k more than that new.
 
  • Love
Reactions: Fragger
I have the exact same car (and also bought it from a small dealer 2 years ago who got it from a doctor... crazy to hear these stories)..the orginal sticker price was $167k

Your battery and drive unit should still be under warranty as it has an 8 year unlimited warranty and the 2016 P100D's were built at the end of 2016.
You may need upgraded cameras (free) if the prior owner did not already upgrade to get FSDbeta
v12 FSD is not yet available for our cars
range of 298 is really good - probably due to lack of miles and just time-based degradation
try to get the rear drive unit checked out - it's still under warranty in case there is liquid intrusion already
FUSC will transfer unless the prior owner transferred to a new car they just bought (honestly, I find this possibility very high)
FSD will transfer unless the prior owner transferred this to a new car they just bought (again, given the timing, I find this likely)
The car is wicked awesome. Pretty much faster than anything on the road except a Plaid S. And, you avoid becoming a commoner with the 3
-HW3 is free upgrade (along with the cameras) since it has FSD. not sure at all what happens if the prior owner transferred FSD to a new car
-try chrome deleting on your car, it will look amazing
-transferring ownership to you: just go through the standard approved route as Tesla provides. It doesn't affect whether FUSC/FSD will transfer. (my car was on the dealer's app and he transferred it to me app to app in real time)


Happy to answer other questions

We literally may have the same car, bud! Down to the 19 inch wheels, except the ones on my future car seem are not black or dark... Possibly the one odd thing, especially when I do chrome delete. I also have the tan leather, possibly not black, like yours?

Speaking of chrome delete, what do you think of those kits they sell on Ebay or some the Tesla specific shops? They seem to be somewhere from $160 to sub 200 range. I wonder how good those are over a wrap shop doing it?

About the FUSC, FSD transfer... 2 - 3 thoughts come to mind:

1. He traded the car to a Mercedes dealership, so it's likely that his replacement was a Mercedes.

2. I have a guy that hunts these unicorns and sells them for his business. This gentleman was really kind and had his guy at Tesla confirm the codes like SC01, confirming that it might in fact be a unicorn. My understanding is, if someone takes those features to their new cars, the codes disappear on the car and shouldn't show up in a VIN lookup.

3. Dealership isn't willing to take the car to a Supercharger, but they have allowed me to start the Tesla car transfer, before shipping the car. I'm hoping Tesla approves the car sooner than later and I can confirm options before the car is shipped? If in my account, it should show those features in my app right? BTW you're so lucky the dealership just did the transfer for you! The best way!

So let's see how lucky/unlucky, I am.

I know the warranty should go to the end if this year, but I don't know if Tesla will do an inspection for me, without any issues, unless they come up? Any tips? Am I wrong?

Thank you for your very wonderful post man! So detailed and helpful! I hope I get to own this car with all the possible features that might be on it... Fingers crossed!

P. S. Crazy story with them doctor's huh!?
 
  • Like
Reactions: gaswalla
As others have stated, the timing of this vehicle coming on the market would lead me to believe the prior owner transferred the features. However, In my recent experience buying cars SC01 cars for friends to transfer to new cars, the process was instant. The old car changed to "Pay Per Use Supercharging" as soon as the new car showed "Free Supercharging". This transition is monitored by Tesla and doesn't always work flawlessly which is why they added the 72 hour language to the transfer docs.

What are the last six of the VIN?

Very helpful, helpful post my friend! I'm assuming this would be true for FSD too, if they took it away.

About the VIN, if I give you the last 6, what could you confirm with it?

I really appreciate your post and help!