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Reducing noise and keeping the door sills clean

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I don't think this is a good test at all. If you want to block noise just use closed cell foam, you won't be able to hear *sugar*.

However with road noise comes vibration, which is reduced by adding weight /mass to the thing that is vibrating.

I would love to try these different techniques, but my door panels rattle so bad that I feat if I apply stuff and the problem is with the panels or clips themselves tesla will void warranty :( Right now I swear I can hear every clip in the passenger door rattling going over ruff terrain. There is also creaking noises every time I'm on and off the accelerator. I think I just have a ton of body flex and door panel flex :(

I have been in 4 times for rattles and I need to book my 5th appointment but they want a recording of the noise. Guess I need to find a sound recorder or some way to mount a phone / gopro so I can make a decent video.

You may be right. Some of the reading i've done on noise reduction seems to indicate that in general a combination of material such as mass loaded vinyl and foam provides the best solution. However, the threads I have read about Model 3 in particular on installation of mass loaded vinyl didn't seem to report much of an improvement, so I'm reluctant to go down that path. Bummer about your rattles and squeaks. My car is solid with none of that. I really don't think there is body flex causing your issue or else everyone would have the same issue. The chassis on the model 3 is extremely strong and rigid.
 
You may be right. Some of the reading i've done on noise reduction seems to indicate that in general a combination of material such as mass loaded vinyl and foam provides the best solution. However, the threads I have read about Model 3 in particular on installation of mass loaded vinyl didn't seem to report much of an improvement, so I'm reluctant to go down that path. Bummer about your rattles and squeaks. My car is solid with none of that. I really don't think there is body flex causing your issue or else everyone would have the same issue. The chassis on the model 3 is extremely strong and rigid.
Mine could be defective then? I'm not sure what to do at this point. Every day driving down my street I consider trying to lemon the car. I love what it could be, but the rattles are driving me nuts.
 
You may be right. Some of the reading i've done on noise reduction seems to indicate that in general a combination of material such as mass loaded vinyl and foam provides the best solution. However, the threads I have read about Model 3 in particular on installation of mass loaded vinyl didn't seem to report much of an improvement, so I'm reluctant to go down that path. Bummer about your rattles and squeaks. My car is solid with none of that. I really don't think there is body flex causing your issue or else everyone would have the same issue. The chassis on the model 3 is extremely strong and rigid.
I did the RAAMmat / ensolite foam over the entire floor of my truck back in 2005 and all doors and the backwall. It made a huge difference! I had a huge stereo and it eliminated most of the bass rattles (Dash and ceiling cargo compartment still rattled sometimes). When I sold it last year many people commented on how quiet it was. Defiantly was allot quieter than the 3, other than the window seal leak and V8.

I think I added over 100lbs of RAAMMAT though hah.
 
I'm coming from a Lexus CT200h as my previous commuter car, basically a dressed up Prius. THAT was pretty loud. Although well built, road noise was loud. Coupled with a small hybrid engine that has to work extra hard, the road noise was pretty unbearable at times on the highway. But I remember how awed I was at how quiet it was during local driving.

Anyways, I love how quiet the Model 3 is in comparison. I've never driven any other "high end" cars so I don't know what to compare it to, but I find it great. What noise I do hear I attribute to normal wind turbulence around the car, or road vibration. I guess the lack of engine noise is enough to make me happy!

I did just do this mod to my car this weekend (Thanks! @bradhs) - the front edge of the front door is the hardest part, but not that hard. It also depends on how anal you want to be about making sure the seal is uniformly applied relative to the door. I did cut out a small hole in the P-type seals to accomodate each of the door drain channels.

While I did not notice a significant drop in overall noise (as rated by my ears), I did notice elimination of some mild turbulent air noise towards the A pillars of my car when driving at highway speeds. I always attributed it to either the windows or the side mirrors, but I was pleasantly surprised that it's gone. I'll confirm on my way home tonight. Even just that would be enough for this mod to be worthwhile to me. Cleaner door sills would also be great!
 
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I recently had folded both rear seats down to carry some items and had noticed very noticeable higher noise level coming from the trunk lid. I will try to add another seal around the trunk lid. Thanks for sharing those pictures.

Hmm, this wasn't my experience. I had previously done a sound meter test with seats down and surprisingly there was no difference. Although in that test I did have a moving blanket lining the trunk along with my bike and some gear. So I decided to replicate the test today with seats down and there was about a 1dB increase in noise with seats down on both concrete freeway test and asphalt secondary road.

On the loudness scale however, 1dB is considered virtually unnoticeable and it also seems to fall within my testing variation that I get from day to day on those two segments. So my conclusion, for my car is that there is not much benefit to be gained by adding noise reduction materials rearward of the rear seats. Also indicates not much if any to be gained by blocking off/insulating the rear deck port.

These cars do have some variations in them so perhaps yours has a bad trunk seal or you are missing the thick padding under the subtrunk, etc. Before adding another trunk seal you might want to have Tesla check your existing seal.
 
On the loudness scale however, 1dB is considered virtually unnoticeable and it also seems to fall within my testing variation that I get from day to day on those two segments.

This actually not true. 1dB can be a huge huge difference depending on the volume level. The dB scale is logarithmic. When you start approaching 70dB and up, it’s very discernible. At 85 (max safe listening level for 8 hours), things really ramp up. 3 more dB, at 88, is essentially doubling the volume level (safe for 4 hours without hearing damage). Another 3 dB after that, and you’ve cut you safe listening time in half again... and so on. Some rock concerts are very unsafe even for 20 minutes or less. Many older jet airplanes are over this level of 85. Almost all new ones are certified to operate under 85.

For the car, most road noises are coming from two sources, tire/road noise coming through the wheel wells, and wind noise around the cabin windows/windshield (depending on speed). Chasing down the door seals is a much lower priority from a sound deadening standpoint.

Keep in mind, ICE cars can get some road noise through the floor and under the rear seats too, but with Tesla’s battery and electronics in the floor... you have nice sound proofing right there.
 
This actually not true. 1dB can be a huge huge difference depending on the volume level. The dB scale is logarithmic. When you start approaching 70dB and up, it’s very discernible. At 85 (max safe listening level for 8 hours), things really ramp up. 3 more dB, at 88, is essentially doubling the volume level (safe for 4 hours without hearing damage). Another 3 dB after that, and you’ve cut you safe listening time in half again... and so on. Some rock concerts are very unsafe even for 20 minutes or less. Many older jet airplanes are over this level of 85. Almost all new ones are certified to operate under 85.

For the car, most road noises are coming from two sources, tire/road noise coming through the wheel wells, and wind noise around the cabin windows/windshield (depending on speed). Chasing down the door seals is a much lower priority from a sound deadening standpoint.

Keep in mind, ICE cars can get some road noise through the floor and under the rear seats too, but with Tesla’s battery and electronics in the floor... you have nice sound proofing right there.

Actually it IS true. What you are talking about is actual SPL (which indeed is logarithmic) and not perceived loudness. You can google these terms and read about it. You will find that 1dB is considered imperceptible change and 3dB is barely perceptible change.
 
Actually it IS true. What you are talking about is actual SPL (which indeed is logarithmic) and not perceived loudness. You can google these terms and read about it. You will find that 1dB is considered imperceptible change and 3dB is barely perceptible change.

Yes, but you’re wading into deep water quickly, as The HL scale is all about specific frequencies, age, and exposure to past sound traumas. This entire thread has been about measuring with devices using off-the-shelf SPL based devices... the only (simple) thing you can show on the charts used in this thread. Because the numbers being shown are comprehensive readings, this notion of doubling volume (logarithmically), every 3 dB, is still a relevant understanding of the overall noise volume when looking at the charts from the OP.
 
Hmm, this wasn't my experience. I had previously done a sound meter test with seats down and surprisingly there was no difference. Although in that test I did have a moving blanket lining the trunk along with my bike and some gear. So I decided to replicate the test today with seats down and there was about a 1dB increase in noise with seats down on both concrete freeway test and asphalt secondary road.

On the loudness scale however, 1dB is considered virtually unnoticeable and it also seems to fall within my testing variation that I get from day to day on those two segments. So my conclusion, for my car is that there is not much benefit to be gained by adding noise reduction materials rearward of the rear seats. Also indicates not much if any to be gained by blocking off/insulating the rear deck port.

These cars do have some variations in them so perhaps yours has a bad trunk seal or you are missing the thick padding under the subtrunk, etc. Before adding another trunk seal you might want to have Tesla check your existing seal.

I had noticed that my friend's model 3 is noticeable quieter than mine. May be my car is an early built VIN ~20#. I'll definitely add Dynamat to the sub-trunk. thanks.
 
I think the noise level is acceptable for a car of this class. I'm used to higher end vehicles where the noise level is much lower...Also, I think I should mention that the Model 3 is as quiet as our 750 until you get over 65 MPH. That's when the tide turns and is my personal objective to reduce. Reduce the noise at 65+ MPH.

Agreed 100%. Around town, the car is very smooth and quiet. On the freeway it's louder than I'd prefer.

My frame of reference is about 20 years of Audis, culminating with an S6 and a Q5 TDi. The Model 3 is louder than either of those on the freeway, though similar overall around town.

I'm waiting on doing/trying anything until someone says "I did this and it made a HUGE difference!" , though I'm really not sure what modification could enable such a change...
 
I did this trim mod and I think it made a difference. There is less high pitch hiss from the door jamb area. And it just rained and I noticed much cleaner door sill, so that's cool.

I have done this, placed moving blankets in front and rear trunks, have tinting, and the roof screen, and I think the car is quieter than without all that stuff. I'm at the point now where I am very satisfied with the noise level. It is nice and quiet. Will never eliminate road noise, especially at high speed and rough roads.
 
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I did this trim mod and I think it made a difference. There is less high pitch hiss from the door jamb area. And it just rained and I noticed much cleaner door sill, so that's cool.

I have done this, placed moving blankets in front and rear trunks, have tinting, and the roof screen, and I think the car is quieter than without all that stuff. I'm at the point now where I am very satisfied with the noise level. It is nice and quiet. Will never eliminate road noise, especially at high speed and rough roads.

And tire psi at 38-40
 
Anyone tried the noise reduction kit from RPM Tesla?

Model 3 Wind Noise Reduction Kit Only $24 with 20% Off




I’ve been experimenting on ways to reduce road noise and also keep the door sills clean.

The best solution seems to be adding more rubber to the doors. See the attached pictures. Road noise rarely exceeds 70 dB(A), it’s now mostly between 50-69 depending on how fast and the road conditions. This is is a P3D+ with 20” rims and 4S sports tires with 6.5K miles.

I used two different kinds of rubber door seals. I’m not in front of my computer to grab the Amazon links, I’ll update the post with them later.

Let me know if any questions.


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While I haven't noticed any signficant road noise decrease with this mod, I have definitely benefited from cleaner door sills. After any typical rain here in SoCal, my sills are usually filthy from congealed rain and road dust. After the rain showers we've had over the last couple weeks, my sills remain really clean. I think just for that alone, this mod is totally worth it.
 
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. There is also creaking noises every time I'm on and off the accelerator. I think I just have a ton of body flex and door panel flex :(

I had creaking sounds just like this and it was from the rubber seals. It began after the rains and sounded like i was in an old galleon. I could lodge my hand directly down to the left of my seat and press in the jam to recreate it.

SC fixed it with a door seal spray. I can see some residue on the seals, and all creaking is gone. Now I have to see if it comes back, but they didn't deny any of it.