(Sorry for the cross-posting but I originally buried this on page 9 of a thread about the IC replacement and that might be too obscure for a timely response.)
We had an IC that went completely dark a short while ago but because the car was still drivable we figured that swapping out the display with one from ReelDeal and keeping our original board would solve the problem. We did this replacement this past weekend but the problem persists: The display is black but we can put the car in gear, work the turn signals (we hear sound; just no display, of course), and such. Chad from ReelDeal suggested everything he could but the problem seems to be with the car and not his replacement display.
Things we already tried or did include:
Any ideas what we might be overlooking here? Is there anything else to try?
We had an IC that went completely dark a short while ago but because the car was still drivable we figured that swapping out the display with one from ReelDeal and keeping our original board would solve the problem. We did this replacement this past weekend but the problem persists: The display is black but we can put the car in gear, work the turn signals (we hear sound; just no display, of course), and such. Chad from ReelDeal suggested everything he could but the problem seems to be with the car and not his replacement display.
Things we already tried or did include:
- Disconnecting the 12v and the HV battery before beginning, so that's not the issue.
- Quadruple checking the ribbon cables. They're clean and secure. We even cleaned the connectors with isopropyl alcohol and blew compressed air in the receptacles in case dust was affecting the ribbon cables' connections.
- Verified that the two connections on the back of the IC assembly are secure.
- Trying every reboot protocol we could find (scroll wheel reset; IC-specific reset; full reset with brake pedal; disconnecting/reconnecting the 12v and HV battery, etc.). The MCU comes up just fine but the IC stays dark. (We did not try a factory reset from the MCU. That's next on my list to try.)
- Verifying that the 5A fuse for the IC is intact (though that seemed obvious since the IC appeared to still be working behind the scenes).
Any ideas what we might be overlooking here? Is there anything else to try?