Hey Guys, quick background: the car is a 2019 100d and just recently the screen has started crashing only when parked at home unplugged overnight (I can leave it at work unplugged and it never happens). I usually just reset it using the steering wheel buttons in the morning, but something I noticed was that when it crashes like this it usually drains the HV battery 3-5%. Usually leaving the car unplugged will drain the car roughly 1% in a day, so I'm wondering if this a sign the battery is going out? The screen is going out? Anyone else have excessive drain when their cars freeze up or crash? Thanks again guys, I'm wondering if I should just live with this or do something about it (if something can be done)?
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Screen Crashing + Vampire Drain?
- Thread starter 50blackout
- Start date
JAlbury825
Member
Interesting. What Model of Tesla do you have? I'm guessing either S or X. With a 2019 vehicle, you should have MCU2. Over the years, the over the air updates have helped to reduce phantom/vampire drain by allowing our cars to go into a deep sleep. My 2014 Model S 60 only loses about 1% range (2.5 km, 1.6 miles) of range overnight, when not plugged in. The temperatures though have pretty mild in FL, lately. Therefore, depending on what the average temperature is where you live, that can impact how much charge the battery will lose overnight as it tries to maintain optimal battery temperature.
Regarding your screen freezing, my 2014 Model S 60 MCU1 screen used to freeze often before I got the eMMC chip upgraded from 8 GB to 64 GB. Lately, my center binnacle screen would freeze occasionally. That was quite frustrating because without it, you don't know your vehicle speed or state of charge during your drive. It would require a full shutdown of the car to get that one reset. Replacing it with MCU2 eliminated all my MCU issues. The cost for the MCU upgrade came to $1880 (including labor).
Again, though, your car should already have MCU2, being such a recent model of vehicle.
Regarding your screen freezing, my 2014 Model S 60 MCU1 screen used to freeze often before I got the eMMC chip upgraded from 8 GB to 64 GB. Lately, my center binnacle screen would freeze occasionally. That was quite frustrating because without it, you don't know your vehicle speed or state of charge during your drive. It would require a full shutdown of the car to get that one reset. Replacing it with MCU2 eliminated all my MCU issues. The cost for the MCU upgrade came to $1880 (including labor).
Again, though, your car should already have MCU2, being such a recent model of vehicle.
Yeah, this is a 2019 Model S and it does have the MCU 2 (which confuses me too, becasue I thought MCU 2 wasn't suppose to crash that much ) The reason I'm wondering if it's a 12V battery issue, is becasue I can't think of anything that would be draining the HV battery (There is no sentry mode, cabin over temp protection, etc. and it only drains like this if the computer crashes the night before. All other times it barely uses any power)
It has me a little nervous becasue I have one more month of warranty left, and I'm trying to see if it's worth taking it to a Tesla SC to at least document the recent crashing/freezing when the car in not plugged in at home. I'm just worried Tesla will charge a "diagnostic" fee and say "we can't reproduce the problem." I have read many posts on this and it does seem like most of the problems are coming from 2018 and older vehicles. The Tesla manual does say that "the car and battery perform the best when plugged in," so maybe I have to make sure to always leave it plugged in as much as possbile?
It has me a little nervous becasue I have one more month of warranty left, and I'm trying to see if it's worth taking it to a Tesla SC to at least document the recent crashing/freezing when the car in not plugged in at home. I'm just worried Tesla will charge a "diagnostic" fee and say "we can't reproduce the problem." I have read many posts on this and it does seem like most of the problems are coming from 2018 and older vehicles. The Tesla manual does say that "the car and battery perform the best when plugged in," so maybe I have to make sure to always leave it plugged in as much as possbile?
JAlbury825
Member
Hmmm... just to be on the safe side, I would schedule a visit to the Tesla SC and have your 12 volt battery replaced. If the 12V battery goes completely dead, it can affect multiple aspects of the car (opening the charge port, unlocking the doors, etc.) Doing it now, while you're under warranty would be best. Everything I have is out of warranty, except my new drive unit and my battery pack.
The lead acid 12V batteries typically last 5 years, so you sound like you're about due for a replacement.
The HV battery charges the 12V battery, so when the car is not plugged in, that might cause some of the issues you're seeing. When I had my drive unit replaced (due to a failure of the coolant seals), they also did a replacement of my HV battery's cooling/heating system and they replaced my 12V battery. I have a Pre-Refresh 12V battery and it cost $165.00 (labor was $70.00).
A general diagnosis costs $175 which is what the charge for 1 hour of labor.
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