Who's lowered their X? (pics or it never happened)

[towndrunk]

Who's lowered their Model X? What did you use?

Pics or it never happened!

I used Blox lowering links, 9 mm longer than stock in the rear, which just happened to be the max, and 3mm longer in the front. I have camber shims in the back, but think I need a little more shim, especially now.

On my first drive, I put the suspension in lowest setting, with a custom (soft) suspension setting and bottomed out with blocks from home. Won't do that again.

Still slightly higher in the back, but I'll try this for a bit before getting the wheels realigned. Can't say the ride is horrible.

Pic is in the default, low position.

 

[Christopher1]

(Way to low for a X. I'm just 1" lower than std now).

 

[towndrunk]

What's the rear look like?

 

[towndrunk]

Found out my rear lowering links were ~10 mm longer than stock (measured outside to outside) and one was hitting the frame when jacked up and tire removed. Max is 9 mm so shortened them to 9 and added 2 shims to the RR and adjusted the toe.

Prior to this I had roughly 1" clearance front and 2" rear. Sucks to have to increase the rear. I have the front set to reduce half shaft wear and the rear as low as I can go to make the front and rear reasonably equal. I'm in the middle of my UPP rear sway bar install so can't get an updated measurement.

 

[towndrunk]

Looks like my rear is one inch higher than the front.

Measuring tool for lowered Teslas by TownDrunk

Trying to level your lowered Tesla? Here's a fun tool to tell you how even the wheel spacing is on your Tesla. Although you can probably use this tool without it, having a spare wheel cover to steal the spring wire from, helps hold it in place. I've included the original for those that want it...

www.thingiverse.com

Front:

Rear:

 

[EvoL]

Any updates? I’m about to do n2itive lowering links, camber shims, and the UP rear sway bar. I’m interested in your opinions on ride quality and handling after the fact.

 

[towndrunk]

My only complaint is I wish I could lower the rear more to match the front. I'm currently 1" above the wheel in the front and 2" in the back in low position. I could lower the rear another 1/2", but that would be the max lowered position and the link hits the sensor with the wheel jacked up so not a fan of that. Besides, the ride seems to be a little worse with the rear at max. Otherwise no complaints.

Make sure you get a lifetime alignment, which is roughly $100 more than a one-time. Then you can tweak a little in 5,000 miles just before your free alignment I'm going to remove a shim from each side in the rear and raise the front to match the rear just before my next one. I have the red shims, but added additional to get me to -1° rear camber, then found out I should be closer to -1.5°. Even if I removed both shims from the left, I still need one on the right to make both sides even. The shims I used are 1mm SS from eBay. Not a fan of SS for this use, but I have the wheels off often enough to monitor to see if I get any corrosion due to the dissimilar metals and our winter road salt.

Bear in mind you may not be able to use cheetah mode if you lower too much. Maybe that's not important to you.

I also installed the UPP rear sway bar, and couldn't tell the difference. Maybe the plaid has a larger diameter rear bar, so the difference was minimal? I know the UPP was a little bigger.

The rear sway bar was a PITA to install. I bought an electric ratchet whitch made removing the underbelly pans a breeze, but they recommend just loosening the rear bumper enough to R/R the sway bar bolts and those bolts were a pain.

 

[GregH]

N2itive alignment kit #1.

 

[towndrunk]

N2itive alignment kit #1.

What settings did you use for your lowering links? Was that pic at low setting or very low?

 

[GregH]

What settings did you use for your lowering links? Was that pic at low setting or very low?

-7 front, -8 rear, pretty sure the pic is very low - where I pretty much always have it.

 

[towndrunk]

-7 front, -8 rear, pretty sure the pic is very low - where I pretty much always have it.

I drove mine with rear at max low and suspension set to very low and I bottomed out within 3 blocks. Decided I wasn't going to do that again. I eventually bumped it up by one and dropped the front more. I have Blox lowering links, which you have to measure with a caliper. They're cheaper than the overpriced N2itive links, but are not as easy to use. IF I had a do-over, I'd go with the N2itive version.

 

[GregH]

Yep, I’m very happy with N2itive, both product & people (Don was quite helpful/communicative while I was investigating options). Also happy with normalized tire wear, that rubber isn’t cheap. I’m planning to order 2024 MSP if/when they offer free unlimited supercharging transfers again, first step will be N2itive kit, for sure.