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WTB - Gen 2 Tesla Wall charger

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Soul Surfer

Cancervivor, tech geek & musician
Apparently this is the only one where I can set with dip switches, the maximum load. My circuit is 40 amps and the electrical contractor told me the ne newer Gen 3 needs a 60amp circuit. I don’t want to get all this done in our building. Any ideas out there? I was looking for a "rip n' replace" from my 25 amp L2 Clipper (Sun Country Highway). Thanks.
 
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Check the manual for the gen 3 again, source circuit configuration is part of the commissioning process.

I did look at it (thank you for that). It seems that the Gen 2, could be literally dialled to the right load. When I spoke with one of the EV contractors in the GTA, I was told that the Gen 3 was more complicated for the setup. Do you think someone at Tesla might know the differences?
 
I did look at it (thank you for that). It seems that the Gen 2, could be literally dialled to the right load. When I spoke with one of the EV contractors in the GTA, I was told that the Gen 3 was more complicated for the setup. Do you think someone at Tesla might know the differences?

The difference in (in what you are asking) is, the Gen 2 wall connector has a physical dial that you set, to set the charging amps. The gen 3 wall connector does it via software during its commissioning process.

There may be some AHJs (authority having jurisdictions) that may not like the fact that the Gen 3 is set via software, so some localities may be requiring gen 3s to be on 60amp circuits because thats "the max" and "what it comes set to out of the box".

Electricians also do not tend to like the idea of setting something like that via software as many dont understand (or trust) it. The gen 3 wall connector does not "require" a 60amp circuit as far as setup goes, it just has to be configured for the load the same as the gen 2, but has the stipulation above, of being configured via firmware.

If I remember, you are (or were) an IT person, so configuring something via firmware should be a familiar concept to you. The thing is, does your local AHJ accept it for gen 3 wall connectors or not? It can be "rip N replace" for what you have, you just need to set the amps in the firmware.

Or, alternatively, get a gen 2 like you are asking for, where its set via dial. I happen to prefer the gen 2 (its what I have, and I went out of the way to get another one to pair with the one I have for power sharing), but Gen 2s are getting rarer and rarer, and people with them are sort of in that "I know what I got" mode. People who prefer the gen 2 for its higher potential capacity (unnecessary in modern teslas) and better build quality, and ability to power share via a cable vs wifi setup, are generally also willing to pay more than these were new to get one.

TL ; DR -- Gen 3s can be set to a lower amps through firmware, while Gen 2s set it via a physical dial. Your AHJ may not accept lower settings on a gen 3 because its a firmware setting. Electricians may not like the fact its firmware vs a dial, but thats how it works on a Gen 3.
 
The difference in (in what you are asking) is, the Gen 2 wall connector has a physical dial that you set, to set the charging amps. The gen 3 wall connector does it via software during its commissioning process.

There may be some AHJs (authority having jurisdictions) that may not like the fact that the Gen 3 is set via software, so some localities may be requiring gen 3s to be on 60amp circuits because thats "the max" and "what it comes set to out of the box".

Electricians also do not tend to like the idea of setting something like that via software as many dont understand (or trust) it. The gen 3 wall connector does not "require" a 60amp circuit as far as setup goes, it just has to be configured for the load the same as the gen 2, but has the stipulation above, of being configured via firmware.

If I remember, you are (or were) an IT person, so configuring something via firmware should be a familiar concept to you. The thing is, does your local AHJ accept it for gen 3 wall connectors or not? It can be "rip N replace" for what you have, you just need to set the amps in the firmware.

Or, alternatively, get a gen 2 like you are asking for, where its set via dial. I happen to prefer the gen 2 (its what I have, and I went out of the way to get another one to pair with the one I have for power sharing), but Gen 2s are getting rarer and rarer, and people with them are sort of in that "I know what I got" mode. People who prefer the gen 2 for its higher potential capacity (unnecessary in modern teslas) and better build quality, and ability to power share via a cable vs wifi setup, are generally also willing to pay more than these were new to get one.

TL ; DR -- Gen 3s can be set to a lower amps through firmware, while Gen 2s set it via a physical dial. Your AHJ may not accept lower settings on a gen 3 because its a firmware setting. Electricians may not like the fact its firmware vs a dial, but thats how it works on a Gen 3.
Thank you for that! I think I get it now (duh). Unless the contractor has some tech savvy, they need a mechanical/physical means to find the logic. So I just need to find a proper electrician now as this is a building and not a home. Again, thank you.
 
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Thank you for that! I think I get it now (duh). Unless the contractor has some tech savvy, they need a mechanical/physical means to find the logic. So I just need to find a proper electrician now as this is a building and not a home. Again, thank you.

You also will want to verify your AHJ (Authority having jurisdiction, or the people who issue and approve local building / electrical etc permits), will allow the Gen 3 to be permitted / will issue a permit for it on on a connection lower than 60amp. As I mentioned, some of them may not like the fact that this is set in the Gen 3 via "software" (firmware) and thus may only consider issuing a permit for it at 60amps, even though it can be set lower.
 
The ESA really doesn’t like the Gen 3 wall connectors due to the software based configuration. I mean with the Gen 2’s it’s just a couple screws to take off the faceplate then you can toggle the dip switches easily. It’s really not that much effort to do compared to the software changes. It mostly wreaks of dinosaurs not adapting to the times.
 
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I'm personally comfortable with the software based configuration. I do agree that there is a lot of value in the extremely simple hardware switch selection when you are wiring it up. The breaker, branch wire gauge and the device all have to match for safety reasons. Giving some ignorant user with a browser the ability to easily create a mismatched device is simply increasing the risk surface.