Recent content by asavage

Google says plain-ish steel blues in the high 500s°F (~300°C). The MLX90614 IR sensor I've installed can read up to 380°C (720°F), and I sure hope that the rotor isn't going to get much hotter than that. But I wouldn't bet $100 on that.

I'm installing a LDU rotor temperature monitor (wiring connectors on order, raining today, etc. delays), but I'll only be getting "after" data (after "coolant delete"), not "before". Pictures here show a blued rotor on an LDU having had "coolant delete" applied, implying significant...

I don't have the breadth of experience with many LDU stators to give good advice on what is "good" HV isolation resistance. I'm seeing numbers quoted from 4Mohm to 120Mohm, which is quite a large range. I think that some numbers are coming from repair facilities that have a strong incentive to...

If you can get the subframe out from under the MS/X -- floor jacks and 4x4s -- have or can build a suitable workbench for the 300 lb. unit, and can buy/borrow a std. engine "cherry picker" (or do as I did, and use a come-along to a garage joist above), it isn't terrible. Yeah, I bought an...

Mine (with low iso) had a spotless seal surface on the rotor shaft, but low enough iso to cause the BMS to open the contactors once, and a bunch of muck/rust on the stator's exposed laminations. Best Practice is If coolant is showing on the speed sensor, it should be disassembled; at least the...

Well, that is what the permit application says . . .

Well, the stators do short.

More: So, if a DIY-er with a low-iso stator issue wants to, they can ship the stator half of the LDU to Arizona for possible repair.

You don't have to split the gearcase to pull the inverter stack, or the rotor. It's only when you really need to get to gearbox bearings, or you have a rotor that has to be pressed out from the pinion gear side, that you have to open the gearcase. Exception: if you're going to have your stator...

The High Voltage Interlock Loop (HVIL) is designed to make certain that all HV wire harness connectors are properly installed, prior to the HV contactors closing. It does not measure HV isolation. The HVIL has many 60 ohm resistors in series; if the loop resistance doesn't add up to the...

A ReVolt representative has said: It seems that some of the wet stators may be revived.

On mine, all six M6 holes had excess RTV in the bottoms. I re-ran all the holes with an M6 tap, so I could use the entire holes' depth. I needed full-depth holes on the upper four for the puller bolts to remove the end cap without beating or prying on things. [This forum's software is...

While there are Model S/X owners who are enthusiasts and hang out in forums such as this, 99% of MS/X owners are going to find out about the rotor seal leaking via a driveability issue (noise or Alert or non-op), in which case it's too late to just stop the leak. The majority of cars that...

The flyover tube has a restraining clamp, an inch back from the rotor end cap. Removing its fixing bolt first make removing the coolant manifold much easier, as you don't have to bend the tube as hard, and I wish that I had known that before I removed my coolant manifold (in the car, in my...

[shrug] I wouldn't be worried about it. It'll shred and shed bits of itself, but to no bad end. It's not going to catch fire or emit toxic or corrosive fumes.