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The only thing you need to confirm is charging options when getting off the I5 corridor. Looks like you’d start heading west/southwest after Grants Pass. Use ABRP and see what your options are.

Wow, that’s actually good news. Not catastrophic then. All depends on how much time you want to put into diagnosing. I’d start with just the rear, but since this only happens once/month, this route will drag things out. I have time on my hands and like DIY so personally, before replacing, I’d...

It’s because he’s actually delivered up until recently - long time/respected members here upgraded packs, actually received service, etc. Obviously, I too am concerned as I’ve paid for the extended warranty as well, but squarely put this in business-challenges category vs “he’s scamming...

Then def not a leak so I wouldn’t go chasing that. So the car levels it self back to normal after how long of being in the weird state? I don’t recall anyone here actually having a sensor go bad, but they are cheap compared to the compressor. I don’t want to steer you down a bunch of paths to...

Does the rear slowly sag throughout the month or is it once/mo the rear is slammed and the front is jacked up “all of a sudden”? If the latter, then my bet is either a bad height/leveling sensor or, ultimately the compressor still.

It wasn’t just a one-off event of it getting stuck? I’ve had even the stock one get stuck a few times due to timing/handshake of when I release the L2 handle. Just plugged the handle back in or used the app to force unlock (I know you tried that). Come to think of it… I may have an extra...

Previous owner didn’t include it?

Why not stick with stock/OEM? They aren’t that expensive?

Side to side rotation does nothing for you. The tread is still in the same position, ie inner tire wear will still be there, just on the other side of the car. The only way to extend the life of the tires is by unmounting them and flipping, assuming you have non-directional/asymmetrical tread...

Not even that. My previous record was 118KW for about a minute. This trip, I think it was Redding or Firebaugh where I arrived with like 4%. I actually saw 128KW, but it’s really a don’t-care because it lasted for less than a minute. Bottom line is we need to spend on avg 40mins per stop. More...

For those wondering whether pre-facelift cars, even with batterygate and chargegate, are still viable for road trips, I say YES! Std disclaimer applies tough - if your top intent is to get to Point B as fast as possible, an EV (and certainly a nosecone car) is not the right choice. My P85D and...

Just recently completed a roundtrip. Longest trek I've ever done with the car. Countless trips to Seattle when Centralia, WA was the sole midpoint SC. Basically this is a straight shot down Interstate5. I did very little planning as the I5 corridor is so saturated with SCs these days that there...

Sorry to hear that. You would prob have to remove the fender liner in order to see the top of the strut where the air line attaches. Start with the valve block naturally since that’s easily accessible. Then make sure the leveling sensor themselves aren’t damaged somehow. Strange that the front...

At this point, unless you notice one or more corners dropping, the compressor is most likely the culprit.

You’re not going to. Jason’s been very clear that BMDs are lowest priority right now. Just reality at this point in time. And as @Moorebid joked about above, your July date ain’t got nothing on others… like me. 😀

Did you send it after logging in? Just wanna see Jason’s instructions play out. Sorry you’re having to be the guinea pig with a bum pack.

And that fixed your steering wheel being off-center?!?! That’s why I asked because I thought it’d be the front link.

Thanks, Jason. So to confirm, if existing ESP folks like me end up having an issue, our reach-out via login/contact-us is the bat-phone I joked about earlier? Good to know. So I’m not going to conjecture here as to whether @Lasttoy ’s issue is what you’re referring to or not, but all they’ve...

Front toe arm? Which side?

Oh, man. Now this is not good, and worrisome to put it mildly. This points to something business-catastrophic like sudden loss of capital to operate, e.g. lawsuit or other. Jason has always come across as a standup guy and real testimonials from longtime members here. He did chime in recently...

Nice. Easy self fixes always a bonus despite lack of attention to detail from service. What about the steering wheel being off-center, then back to good, then off again?

Timely resurrection of an oldie-but-goodie thread. 👍 Driving my car on a daily basis in an urban env makes me forget the bonuses of the plus suspension. Road trip to LA, going up/down Mt Shasta reminded me of how good this car is. Even with stock links in low mode, taking the sweepers at speed...

The errors in service mode are a known false-positive. The logic/algorithm for the louvers on our older cars changed (for the worse IMO) over time. Mine only seem to open like what you describe - for tens secs when sometimes first opening a door. I don’t supercharge much, but the last time I...

Wouldn’t expect the SC to have it. Call Customer Service instead. That’s how I got mine, but again, that was years ago.

You called a service center or customer service?

Longshot as customer service isn’t what it used to be, but many moons ago, I was able to request the orig Monroney sticker from Tesla and it was emailed to me within minutes. YMMV now… 😆

Yes, replace it. Relays can be intermittent (sticky) vs completely dead. They are cheap and readily available. That’s the first step and hopefully resolved everything. There may be something lurking after, but if the relay is flaky, all bets are off at finding any other issues.

If little/no brake dust is your top goal, then yes, Akebono is the way to go. Like others have stated, I’ve used them plenty in the past on the family cars and they are great/no issues. For “my” car (daily driver), I go with grippier compounds at the expense of dust (EBC Yellows, Hawk HP+, etc.).

Ah, that’s right. Thx for correction.

This story is getting stranger and stranger. My money is on a failed 60 pack that got replaced with the 75 pack and the previous owner got a case of badginitis and bought new badges to add value to the car when selling. However, the car should’ve been under the factory battery warranty so Tesla...

Right behind the right front passenger wheel. The sticker is visible without jacking up the car. A 60D had an EPA 218mi rating hence 238 real world points to a bigger battery for you.

238 real world miles on a 60? Then perhaps you really do have a 90?!?! What does the sticker on the battery say?

Without Googling it… that sounds right. Or was that the Street Fighter II code? 😀 🎮

I’ve never seen a yellow SAS light, only red. If it keeps purging every 10-15mins then there is a bad sensor somewhere telling the valve block to release air for self preservation. Is the compressor running after the purge to fill the tank up again?

Are you slammed to the ground, ie can’t drive at all? I remember driving around for a bit with the front slammed and rear super high and it triggered some sort of reset and the red icon went away. Also, Tesla can clear the stores codes and perform a suspension calibration for like $40, so...

No. It’s the fuse box buried under the cabin filter underneath the passenger side cowl. Easy check is to check for 12V at the K11 relay that controls the compressor. That’s in the right side fuse box.

The main 40A MIDI fuse is prob blown. Valve block is simple to swap out from above. Much easier than the compressor. Remember, I already offered to send you one free of charge…

I’ve swapped the compressor out multiple times now and do not recommend remanufactured ones that are also compatible with Audi. At least not one specific brand. I had two fail on me back to back. Went OEM and smooth sailing after that. It’s ~$750 from Tesla so yes, expensive. You could pick up...

Tank takes well over 80psi. I’m thinking, as in a majority of the cases here, that it’s the compressor. There are pressure sensors inside the compressor. Also, it can seize even though it runs for a short time. Unfortunately it’s the most expensive part. If you want to try the valve block first...

Coat hanger to pull the door handle. I’ve seen the little airbag you can buy to wedge the window glass just enough to provide space without breaking, but I’m sure a panel pry tool could do the same to provide the room needed to insert the coat hanger. I’ve never done this mind you. There are...

Also, asymmetrical vs directional impacts rotation possibilities depending on whether you’re running a staggered or square setup.

Durability is determined by tire compound, not tread pattern. Look at the treadwear ratings. All-seasons and tires with mileage warranties use harder compounds vs summer/high perf tires. You’ll find tires with both tread pattern types across the categories. You’re not going to notice a...

Three posts up? Again, spaceship/EV whine != milling noise. Buzzing is as close as I can describe it and yes, when they replaced the LDU on my P85D, I got back to normal EV whine. Not sure why proactive replacement would make sense. Drive it til there’s a real problem or the noise is past your...

Spaceship sound is normal. Buzzing sound upon acceleration is the dreaded milling noise issue. However, that’s not a death knell, just annoying if irregular sounds bother you. My LDU was replaced under warranty around -50K miles. Shop foreman said it would get louder over time, but not harmful...

Your example is the exception, not the norm. And even when that happens, the built in book time for removal of that part is immaterial to the overall quote. I guess if you were paying for a complete brake job on all four corners that you would have a valid case for them unsavorily charging for...

Of course they overcharge. Service is a money maker no matter what industry we’re talking about. Factory knowledge, tools, and OEM parts command a premium. Imagine the accounting nightmare if they charged by actual time spent. Would have to charge differently depending on who worked on the car...

@houstonian ’s eloquent reply is way over my head so I’m gonna keep it simple. This is what’s known as an Outcome-Based contract. You are quoted and pay a set amount for a desired outcome. They could put one person on it or ten. It’s a don’t care. They deliver the outcome in (generally) the...

Well, blimey. You are correct. With all the quick controls they’ve added to the app, I never even go into the Climate menu anymore as I just hit the little fan icon from the main screen to pre-heat/cool. Thanks!!!

Hmmm, I lost window vent function a long time ago. Now only have Vent Roof, which allows me to close it again naturally. Dec ‘14 P85D running 2022.8.10.12

You can vent the roof, but can you still lower the windows remotely???