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Does the rear slowly sag throughout the month or is it once/mo the rear is slammed and the front is jacked up “all of a sudden”? If the latter, then my bet is either a bad height/leveling sensor or, ultimately the compressor still.Also, an important point is that this situation only occurs about once a month at this point.
Once a month (not slowly) the rear left is at the bottom of travel and the front right at maximum travel. If it is a bad height/leveling sensor, I would need to change both rear and front?Does the rear slowly sag throughout the month or is it once/mo the rear is slammed and the front is jacked up “all of a sudden”? If the latter, then my bet is either a bad height/leveling sensor or, ultimately the compressor still.
Then def not a leak so I wouldn’t go chasing that.Once a month (not slowly) the rear left is at the bottom of travel and the front right at maximum travel. If it is a bad height/leveling sensor, I would need to change both rear and front?
overnight. When I press the brakes, everything levels up right away. Then it can be about a month in between (so far). I'll try the sensors. Would you think to I should change both front and rear (the corners that fail at this point) or just the rear left to start. Thanks once more.Then def not a leak so I wouldn’t go chasing that.
So the car levels it self back to normal after how long of being in the weird state?
I don’t recall anyone here actually having a sensor go bad, but they are cheap compared to the compressor. I don’t want to steer you down a bunch of paths to waste your time or money.
When my compressor was bad, I never thought that the car would slowly lower the fronts to the point of being slammed (over the course of a couple days) and jack the rears beyond even Very High. Remember the compressor has pressure sensors to send data back to the SAS computer.
Wow, that’s actually good news. Not catastrophic then. All depends on how much time you want to put into diagnosing. I’d start with just the rear, but since this only happens once/month, this route will drag things out.overnight. When I press the brakes, everything levels up right away. Then it can be about a month in between (so far). I'll try the sensors. Would you think to I should change both front and rear (the corners that fail at this point) or just the rear left to start. Thanks once more.
Cheers
I like that idea very much, that's my style, will try and keep you posted cheersWow, that’s actually good news. Not catastrophic then. All depends on how much time you want to put into diagnosing. I’d start with just the rear, but since this only happens once/month, this route will drag things out.
I have time on my hands and like DIY so personally, before replacing, I’d swap the rear sensors left to right and see if the problem follows, ie right rear gets jacked up.
Thanks! Should I measure the fender heights at various ride heights to verify it’s not something else? Or, should I just go ahead and replace the compressor? (Used off eBay okay?)At this point, unless you notice one or more corners dropping, the compressor is most likely the culprit.
Eek. All sorts of new tidbits.Thanks! Should I measure the fender heights at various ride heights to verify it’s not something else? Or, should I just go ahead and replace the compressor? (Used off eBay okay?)
Some more details I’ve noticed- after replacing the relay, the error code is never thrown anymore (with the message at the bottom of the dash) but the red leveling light comes on regularly. When the red dash light is on, there also isn’t a code in service mode. I’ve done a full factory reset, light still comes on. Even when the red light is on, the system still seems to level itself. When I try to change the ride height (with the light in), it will try and sometimes it moves (but I’m not sure if it’s actually at the right height) and sometimes won’t try.
Note that I have recently redone all of the front suspension and added rear adjustable camber arms. I did have an alignment done afterwards. The light came on a week or so before I did the suspension.
Diagnosis still the compressor or should I do some other diagnostic work before spending the money? And, used from eBay or new from Tesla?
Sorry about that. I used the Hardrace Rear Camber Kit and my buddy who’s a mechanic installed them.Eek. All sorts of new tidbits.
I’m thinking it’s not the compressor just yet now. You got the error a week before suspension work most likely because of the flaky relay. Once you replaced it, one thing down. With the installation of the camber arms, depending on which brand, how they were installed, and whether the height sensor arm/bracket was tweaked in the process, all those could impact whether the SAS can raise or lower. The error code going away points to compressor being ok. Red icon only points to the car not knowing what to do. Folks have def seen issues due to camber arm installs and height sensor issues. Which arms did you use and did you install yourself?
Really tough to say now. If it does run sometimes for most of the day, then I assume you also hear purging because the air has to go somewhere. When this happens, are there breaks at all because it’s supposed to therm trip for self preservation. If not then the internal temp sensor is fubar and the motor will seize.Sorry about that. I used the Hardrace Rear Camber Kit and my buddy who’s a mechanic installed them.
I’ve tried to put eyes on the sensors but haven’t seen the rear sensors yet. The front looked reaosnable, though I’m not actually sure what to look for.
Sometimes the compressor does run for awhile. If there’s a way to test it, I’m happy to do so. To your point of it going away, sometimes it won’t come on much, if at all, in a day. Other times it will be on most the day.
Thanks. To be certain we’re on the same page, I think I should define “it” and what’s running. The air suspension will often run (as in work correctly) without the light on. Some days the light rarely comes on. When the light’s on, sometimes the suspension works fine and sometimes it doesn’t. The air compressor itself never runs all day. It will sometimes run for a longer period of time than expected but it does seem to “give up” at some point (therm trip?). (We may have already been on the same page but I thought it was worth clarifying, just in case.)Really tough to say now. If it does run sometimes for most of the day, then I assume you also hear purging because the air has to go somewhere. When this happens, are there breaks at all because it’s supposed to therm trip for self preservation. If not then the internal temp sensor is fubar and the motor will seize.
Sorry I can’t be more definitive at this point. Most roads lead back to the compressor and only a few folks have had actual leaks or bad height sensors. Your intermittent situation is what’s making it tougher to pinpoint.
The light is on much more consistently now (it's colder). I find something (the compressor?) runs a lot and for a long period of time. The purge does seem to work fine too. I'm not sure what to do next. Thoughts?Sorry for the late response. Yes, I’d try cycling through the diff height settings and see if things work normally. On days that the light turns on, is the car level?
Purging is when the valve block releases excess air. You’ll hear a whooosh sound.
Unfortunately this is a tell tale sign the compressor is going. It will eventually seize and the red icon won’t go away.The light is on much more consistently now (it's colder). I find something (the compressor?) runs a lot and for a long period of time. The purge does seem to work fine too. I'm not sure what to do next. Thoughts?
Ugh. Ok. Any way I can test it to confirm for good?Unfortunately this is a tell tale sign the compressor is going. It will eventually seize and the red icon won’t go away.
Ugh. Ok. Any way I can test it to confirm for good?
Used okay to replace or should I buy a new one?
The light wasn’t on so I cycled through all of the settings. It lowers and then raises back up but best I can tell it comes back to right about the same spot no matter what setting I put it on.Unfortunately this is a tell tale sign the compressor is going. It will eventually seize and the red icon won’t go away.
Strange/things keep getting weirder. Are you saying it won’t stay in low or very high? That rules out the leveling sensors because unless one or two corners are off, having all four die at the same time is highly unlikely.The light wasn’t on so I cycled through all of the settings. It lowers and then raises back up but best I can tell it comes back to right about the same spot no matter what setting I put it on.