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Well you can’t have it before the amplifier as there isn’t a signal there…it’s just data

It won’t change impedance anywhere

Yea I have recreated it and I think you are right, the car has 285 all round on 10.5 square so I can only assume it went over ice on three occasions during a 5 min window which made the wheels spin and traction to cut in

Anyone have any comments to add?

Driving today and the car feels a bit weird, every now and again the car “stalls”/“jolts”like a gas car with a bad misfire, constant throttle opening but all of a sudden the car slow down and then picks back up again This is not on autopilot, feels totally different from slowdowns on autopilot...

because the stock wheels that sit in the arch by 2" are so nice right? not to mention they are cast....

It’s been around 6 months with the stock sensors now, hard reset via under the seat, soft reboots via steering wheel and even updated the software to v11

I fitted a set of aftermarket wheels, put ebay tesla 433mhz TPMS in there...didnt work, swapped them out for a set of amazon sensors that were recommended on here....didnt work, took the stock sensors out of the stock alloys and after covering say 3000 miles they wont work. I asked Tesla to...

Ha, its dry but I like it.

Is this a serious coment?

Ah yea, im in the UK so when I bought one I didnt need to worry about international postage

Why go through the hassle when you can just buy one already made?

With Churchill too, you need to go through to the claims (not windscreen) and speak with them to get the go ahead to go directly with tesla, I have been waiting with Churchill/Autoglass since January and now waiting with Tesla since June. The crack is all the way across the screen .

The Aluminati versions I have from eBay are great, they are made out of titanium, have balljointed ends that you can replace and are custom made to order by a team in the UK.

It only happened at v11 for me, subwoofer output was previously limited to about 40hz, now it works well on sinewaves down to 20hz at least, with a capable aftermarket amplifier and subwoofer its a night and day difference.

I kept mine on v10 because of what people had said on here, i eventually went to v11 to try and get my TPMS working again which didnt work, I found the software to be ok, more than ok actually, the audio was massively improved and in all I prefer it.

So why do you want the windscreen tinted? /s

I have been waiting 6 months with Autoglass....

You can buy them on ebay

No I was referring to the person who called it BS, the problem isnt with unplugging the subwoofer its with unplugging the amplifier but lets make this interesting, anyne who is man enough to go onto a forum and call BS surely is man enough to take their phone, press record and then go to the...

Haha you think its BS and you base this on what exactly?

See my above comments, removing 12v battery does not stop the power surge, you need to remove battery neg terminal and then the main battery under the seat next to the 12v output. removing the subwoofer connectoion at the subwoofer will not cause the power surge, removal of the plugs at the...

Have you tried recalibration in the service menu

Best way is hard reset, 12v ground on battery and pull the plug under back seat https://www.mountainpassperformance.com/tesla-model-3-hard-reset/

Removing the plug from the amplifier at the rear can and will blow either the amplifier or the main computer or the microphone in the roof...This can only be done with 12v battery disconnected and the main battery plug next to the 12v output disconnected

What makes you think it can’t produce any sound below 40hz? You realise they have now removed that filter?

Before v11 the sub done nothing on 20hz sinewave but jumped out of its basket when the sinewave was applied via a phone cable to the amp, after v11 its almost like the phone, a much less agressive filtering has been applied in the new software it seems.

Yes that is correct but you need to be in the seat and then touch the brake, it also disconnects as you apply handbrake or if you lift your butt up.

Next to the driver seat is the wire that triggers once you get in, problem with manual switches is you can always forget to switch it off

interestingly i just changed to v11 and the first thing i done was run a 20hz sinewave, there is a hell of a lot more information there than there was before and i have ran that test many times previously

No issues, there is also another 1.2k amp in there currently. The system uses a 500a Stinger relay which is bypassed by a 200ohm resistor, there is also a 40 second delay timer relay which switches the relay on, 40 seconds after the DC converter wakes up. Problem is that DC converter will wake...

what amp is in there?

I have found that the stock amplifier does not send much information under 40hz, with an 18" on 3kw there is nothing sent to the speaker when a 20hz sinewave is applied, very little at 30hz, if you run an ipod to the amp and run the same tone the sub definatly gets it then, there isn really...

Was that on a model 3? I couldnt find anything when I done my install, really frustrating.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/403539927541?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338791177&toolid=10001&customid=

Isnt that what a splitter is for?? Anyway there is one here. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/403539927541

nope

Yes I see. There also seems to be another way to avoid having the relay/solenoid/etc which is to permanently run the trigger/remote wire to the amplifier from the 12v frunk battery, i havent measured how much drain that would take from the battery but because the amp will have the main feed...

Have i not clearly mentioned twice that i have?

It didnt seem to cover that case and it doesnt throw codes but thank you for your input.

I did say connecting the battery directly to the converter as it is on the model S. Ok so what would happen if someone did? What is the reason to not do it other than "because Tesla didnt do it", it seems to me that the car can be jump started "if that applies here" with the electrical system...

Well thats why I was asking about connecting the penthouse to the battery directly....Because its a model 3 thread and I was asking about the model 3. I dont see any information of relevance on the post you referenced or did I miss them explaining why you cant connect the two?

Sounds liike it would be a bad idea but the more I thought about it the more sense it makes, the battery is connected directly to the converter on the model S as far as I could tell because you can get like 500a from the posts just before the battery, could the same be done on the model 3 and...

This is the software update forum?

No disrespect but you had someone else install your kit and now you are giving advice on install? The penthouse wires that people are using are 14v....Literally nobody is tapping into the 400v system.

It wasnt cheap but the part is very high quality and the balljoint is easily replaceable, if you are paying for labour its worth doing early on in ownership. The stock item is crap, the balljoints fail even when new.....Not happy with that part personally.

Ah, ours just calls emergency services (UK)

Dont know about that but the Mountain pass arms kick ass

So you guys dont have the SOS button in the roof?

It's almost like they would be modifying the vehicle against your wishes.