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That’s not how it works. The compressor controls everything (based on feedback to the s/w), so if it’s dead, having the reservoir fully filled isn’t going to raise the suspension. No matter though, just fill it up regardless. Just don’t expect the front end to magically raise after you do so...

Don’t need to worry so much about the actual PSI of the reservoir. Just fill it. Leaving it empty once the compressor is replaced just makes it run longer upon first startup. That’s what you want to avoid. I used the my local Costco’s nitrogen self-serve station…

Not really. That much pressure is normal when filled, but you don’t NEED that much for the system to operate.

Just tell them that you replaced the fuse, compressor kicks on, then fuse blows, which means it has seized, causing the over current. If you have a bench top power supply or a jump starter pack, you could manually power it up and confirm it’s seized. Warning, intense heat comes quickly at the...

Yep, compressor is toast. 40A fuse blowing right after replacement is the tell-tale sign.

Of course they just ate the loss. They’re not going to spend resources to try to recoup from a now failed venture. I’m sure others could as well if willing to do the legwork. CC company will prob relent at some point.

It seems like it’d be the valve block, but it’s still most likely the compressor. The s/w gets way outta whack when the compressor fails. In my past case, the front end was slammed and the rear was very high. I replaced the block first to no avail. Then compressor with aftermarket/rebuilt, which...

You mean the air line pops out, not the brass fitting. All you need to do is make a new clean cut of the line. Make sure you use proper cutters vs normal diag pliers or scissors. What’s happening is that the barbs on the collar aren’t catching/grabbing the line prob because it’s been compressed...

I’ve already stated that multiple times even though I’ve never driven a car with CCBs. My point is that for normal daily drives, it’s not going to be materially different. Otherwise OEMs wouldn’t include them as they’d get complaints from folks who just spent a ton of $$ and now state “the car...

Again, you keep asking for brake feel, which is highly subjective, especially under normal driving conditions. From a safety perspective, unless you’re doing panic stops from cold, I suspect you’re not going to have to mash the pedal because it’s the first drive of the day. You’ve already...

Right, but we all get distracted these days and it’s apparently happened three times to OP now (door lowering onto them).

Right, but for the times it didn’t work, you’ve suffered damage. Not something I’d ever take a chance on personally vs using the button each time. Also, do you not have the old skool light beam sensors on the floor that would prevent the door from even coming down since you were still backing up?

I’ve never driven a car with CCBs so cannot provide specific feedback. I still go back to the point that this is daily driving we’re talking about. Our brakes get rarely used remember so they’re never going to come up to temp. So feel will be different, but not so drastic that you’d feel unsafe...

You’re detail-oriented and striving for optimization, which is great. However, braking feel is highly subjective. From what you describe, you’re asking for the same feel as the stock setup under normal driving conditions, which means you’re generally not taxing the brakes. The “only” way to...

Agree, but we’re not a judgmental group… 😁 I just wanna see how close said boulder was to the road, AP/FSD or not.

Weight savings from brake upgrades is usually not the top priority. Performance is. Look at the data you already have. A couple kilos/a few pounds of difference isn’t going to matter, esp for the price. Your biggest savings will be from the wheels, but then you said you like big wheels, which is...

All these responses, but no subsequent update from OP. The suspense is killing me.

Pics from the scene vs just the damage yah? How about video?

Hence why we need more details from OP (and hopefully footage as they said it was a $100k car so not a dinosaur nosecone like mine 😀).

What year/model, i.e. is there footage saved? AP would only be active if there are lane markers vs an an actual rural country road so would be interested in seeing just where this boulder was in relation to the road/markers. Sorry this happened, though, esp as one of your first experiences with AP.

Will gladly do so if you hand me over a Plaid. 😁🤞👍

Just depends on when my failure would’ve occurred. I very well could’ve gotten it serviced had it been earlier vs late ‘23. There have been positive stories. That’s why I’m ok with where things stand now. Come December I would’ve gotten everything I expected out of the 2yr contract.

I doubt it’s against you/your situation specifically, rather this whole saga. I bought my service plan 6mos after you, so am in “worse” shape so to speak. But as I’ve stated early on in this thread, I figure since I haven’t had to make a claim against the plan, ie battery ok (knock on wood!)...

Honestly don’t think nitrogen vs air would’ve made any difference with that wild of a swing along with being in that frigid env for a week. If you want to refill with nitrogen, that should be easy as even Costco tire fill up stations offer nitrogen.

This all boils down to the stigma associated with Recalls. Prior to the rise in software use/dependency in cars, recalls were almost exclusively tied to mechanical safety defects. So when the headlines now only say “Tesla recalls every car ever made”, folks are alarmed until they read further...

What am I missing? It’ll be Feb. 8th 2024 shortly, ie you’ve gotten your two-years worth of service plan duration. Or did you have a failure and didn’t get resolution?

The pic you attached shows you have a s/w update waiting. Unless you’re specifically wanting to stay on an older version, I’d update and see if things improve.

Strange/things keep getting weirder. Are you saying it won’t stay in low or very high? That rules out the leveling sensors because unless one or two corners are off, having all four die at the same time is highly unlikely. To answer your previous question, I’d stick to OEM Tesla. I went through...

Unfortunately this is a tell tale sign the compressor is going. It will eventually seize and the red icon won’t go away. 😂

Wow, we’ve made the leap to Manslaughter vs Murder? While certainly not an apologist for 057, I’m a realist that the company went out of business (in whatever way, shape, or form), so if I want to recoup the leftover portion of the $2k already paid, I should pursue a claim, just like other...

Meh, the louvres opening helps, but it’s not like the lower frunk area is sealed. Chargegate is intentional slowing of the charge curve to protect our old batteries. At least put more margin by taxing them less with lower peak rates.

I’ve had this issue for years and I’ve deduced it is indeed due to interference from LED lights as @krsgio stated. The streetlights in my neighborhood were converted to LED, but in never made the connection until scratching my head about why only at night. My son’s leaf has issues as well. I’ve...

Warranty wording aside, the coolant tank is nothing special, just like the washer fluid bottle. Check the level once you remove the frunk. If it’s drastically low, you know you have a big problem. If it’s marginally low, either top it off to your liking since there’s no sensor that tells Tesla...

You have a coolant warning and want Tesla to tell you at what point does it become “catastrophic”? There aren’t progressively escalating warnings. It’s your call. Play it completely safe and don’t drive until your appt, monitoring the ground as you have done, or drive it short distances. Again...

Not making excuses for 057/Jason with my responses. Just being realistic. The key here is that times have changed due to the interwebs providing both an avenue for a vendor to establish their business as well a direct comms link with end customers (posts, DMs, etc.). Look at the myriad of wheel...

Wow, you get a dedicated EVSE and parking spot to boot for a flat monthly fee? Never heard of that model as I’d think the complex wants a higher revenue stream from multiple users. Do you have to pay to charge on top of the monthly fee, ie maybe you could “sublet” your spot and charge others...

You need to go to the car/EVSE when this happens and see what is displayed when you try to restart the charge. Display as in both the charge port (what colors) and/or the Xeal screen. You don’t mention which app you’re talking about. Assume this is a pay station so you certainly can’t start the...

I know, but what to do but wait. More posts about “Still nothing” ain’t gonna speed things along.

It’s already been stated he cannot say anything further [read: NDA].

Sorry for the late response. Yes, I’d try cycling through the diff height settings and see if things work normally. On days that the light turns on, is the car level? Purging is when the valve block releases excess air. You’ll hear a whooosh sound.

Meh, I don’t think it’s that detrimental to warrant hard wiring. Having them open during supercharging is absolutely beneficial, but even if they remain closed the air does have a pace to go (front end not a totally sealed env). Tweet at Elon for a fix? Please include turning the auto wiper freq...

Really tough to say now. If it does run sometimes for most of the day, then I assume you also hear purging because the air has to go somewhere. When this happens, are there breaks at all because it’s supposed to therm trip for self preservation. If not then the internal temp sensor is fubar and...

Not sure what you’re talking about in terms of “rust as designed to do”. If you have rusted pins and/or retainer springs, just stick to asking for replacement options without the fanfare. If you live in a climate that’s conducive to rust (salt use for example) than more maintenance is required...

While I understand everyone wanting answers asap, it’s clear that’s just not possible at this point in time. Jason chiming in with what he has already is enough for me to wait. The rest is just speculation, including LLC vs not etc. There’s always a lawyer out there to take up any case...

Eek. All sorts of new tidbits. 😀 I’m thinking it’s not the compressor just yet now. You got the error a week before suspension work most likely because of the flaky relay. Once you replaced it, one thing down. With the installation of the camber arms, depending on which brand, how they were...

Thanks for the details. What I meant was that they are false-positives in terms of people interpreting them as the louvres are bad/have failed. A software issue for sure as you’ve pointed out Toolbox reset has worked for you. Mine still open when when my car’s in the garage, but not while...

I’m more concerned about “the bolts holding the rear control arms fell out”. That’s pretty catastrophic to me. Car drove fine with no violent vibrations etc.?

Good to know. So the wait continues on 057 Tech’s fate. If it’s been sold vs just shuttering, there’s still upside there I guess.

Bought a battery module from him? Didn’t know he sold individual modules. “He also repaired five batteries I bought from 057”???? Hmmmmm….

Don’t overthink it. 80% max for daily use. If you don’t need that much and prefer to lower, go for it. Key is to not charge to 100% unless absolutely needed and when you do, drive soon after vs letting it sit at full charge. For older cars, as mentioned above, the battery coolant heater will...