Did you find the problem?Unfortunately i never figured out how to get rid of the yellow indicator - my suspension would only pump up to about 85 psi or so and then would release the rest of the pressure with a big pshhhhh sound - system acted as if it was leaking but I'm pretture sure the operating pressure is supposed to be well over the 85psi it was releasing. My compressor ran a lot, it was new so I wasn't too worried about it - Ive been driving around like this for months - now i have the red indicator light again and I'm trying to remember what i did to clear it - i think pumping it up and disconnecting/reconnecting the 12v battery maybe?
either way this is super frustrating - maybe its the valve block that i got on amazon that doesn't have the correct settings for a Tesla? for operating pressure? still 85psi seems super low operating pressure for any vehicle....? or maybe it was always the new compressor that was working, but blowing off at the wrong pressure? or is it the valve block that releases the excess?
I'm considering getting used genuine OEM tesla parts off ebay so i can replace them one at a time (probably starting with the compressor) to see if i can isolate the bad part and know for sure.
(pulls hair out)
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P85+ Air suspension stuck full low
- Thread starter The4ork
- Start date
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Similar problem here....
I took my car (2013) in to get the "Coolant Delete" LDU, so rear subframe was dropped out of the car. When I brought it in, air suspension was working perfect.
Within 5 minutes, on the drive home at highway speed, I got the yellow suspension light on the dash, and the rear passenger wheel was slammed low.
I got the compressor to work, and the system held air overnight, so no leaks. I also verified no leaks with a tire gauge on the Schrader valve for the system air tank.
I just replaced the ride height sensor on the rear passenger wheel, and it's better, but the car rides with the front driver's wheel at a higher level, and the passenger's rear wheel at a lower level than the ride height setting.
Shop that did the LDU work says that they didn't touch the suspension, and that it is coincidental.
No errors in Service mode.
I performed other service (clean the contacts on the DC DC converter) that required disconnecting the 12V and fireman's loop. No change.
1) Would Toolbox be helpful here? Do you suggest paying a shop to connect the car to Toolbox?
2) Does dropping the subframe involve messing with the air suspension?
3) What would happen if the mechanic did not put the car in "Jack Mode"?
4) Has anyone converted their air suspension car to regular spring coil struts?
5) Is there a way to electrically check the ride height sensors for proper operation prior to replacement?
Brian
I took my car (2013) in to get the "Coolant Delete" LDU, so rear subframe was dropped out of the car. When I brought it in, air suspension was working perfect.
Within 5 minutes, on the drive home at highway speed, I got the yellow suspension light on the dash, and the rear passenger wheel was slammed low.
I got the compressor to work, and the system held air overnight, so no leaks. I also verified no leaks with a tire gauge on the Schrader valve for the system air tank.
I just replaced the ride height sensor on the rear passenger wheel, and it's better, but the car rides with the front driver's wheel at a higher level, and the passenger's rear wheel at a lower level than the ride height setting.
Shop that did the LDU work says that they didn't touch the suspension, and that it is coincidental.
No errors in Service mode.
I performed other service (clean the contacts on the DC DC converter) that required disconnecting the 12V and fireman's loop. No change.
1) Would Toolbox be helpful here? Do you suggest paying a shop to connect the car to Toolbox?
2) Does dropping the subframe involve messing with the air suspension?
3) What would happen if the mechanic did not put the car in "Jack Mode"?
4) Has anyone converted their air suspension car to regular spring coil struts?
5) Is there a way to electrically check the ride height sensors for proper operation prior to replacement?
Brian
Last edited:
MobileClimate
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No CO2
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The suspension menu in service mode looked no different than outside of service mode, with no errors showing in suspension or alerts.
Changing wheel calibration solved the problem, but after a 15 minute highway ride, the problem returned. No yellow suspension light on the dash, though.
Again, the rear passenger wheel is lower than the set ride height, and the driver's front wheel is higher than set ride height.
Changing wheel calibration solved the problem, but after a 15 minute highway ride, the problem returned. No yellow suspension light on the dash, though.
Again, the rear passenger wheel is lower than the set ride height, and the driver's front wheel is higher than set ride height.
I've read through this thread and a bunch of others, to try to address the fact that the front end of my Model S (2017 75D) is very low to the ground. I'm concerned about trying to drive it to the service center. From the noise the compressor makes, it does seem that the compressor is almost dead. (It only runs for ~10 seconds, & then I get "air suspension compressor disabled -- vehicle unable to raise".)
However: there is pressure in the system -- using a tyre gauge, there's well over 50psi (the max on the gauge).
So, my suspicion is that the valve block is faulty. It's only the front end that is low to the ground; the rear is at normal height.
I'm very intrigued by a suggestion made here: Everything you need to know about air suspension solenoid valve block
The suggestion is to swap the air lines: connect the front lines to the "rear" terminals on the valve block, and the rear lines to the "front" terminals on the block. This would help isolate a problem, perhaps (and tell me whether the valve block is indeed faulty).
My question for now: when the car is off, are all the valves closed? When I remove the air lines from the valve block, will they be under pressure?
I figure there must be valves on the air shocks as well. So, for this idea to work, the valves on the shocks would have to be default closed (to ensure the air lines are not under pressure).
Please comment if you can help!
However: there is pressure in the system -- using a tyre gauge, there's well over 50psi (the max on the gauge).
So, my suspicion is that the valve block is faulty. It's only the front end that is low to the ground; the rear is at normal height.
I'm very intrigued by a suggestion made here: Everything you need to know about air suspension solenoid valve block
The suggestion is to swap the air lines: connect the front lines to the "rear" terminals on the valve block, and the rear lines to the "front" terminals on the block. This would help isolate a problem, perhaps (and tell me whether the valve block is indeed faulty).
My question for now: when the car is off, are all the valves closed? When I remove the air lines from the valve block, will they be under pressure?
I figure there must be valves on the air shocks as well. So, for this idea to work, the valves on the shocks would have to be default closed (to ensure the air lines are not under pressure).
Please comment if you can help!
It seems like it’d be the valve block, but it’s still most likely the compressor. The s/w gets way outta whack when the compressor fails. In my past case, the front end was slammed and the rear was very high. I replaced the block first to no avail. Then compressor with aftermarket/rebuilt, which worked for a few weeks, then failed again. Finally went with OEM Continental and have been good ever since (touch wood!).
If you’re going to replace yourself remember to put a jack underneath first as you’ll be depressurizing the system so the car will be slammed and not enough room to get a jack under after the fact.
If you’re going to replace yourself remember to put a jack underneath first as you’ll be depressurizing the system so the car will be slammed and not enough room to get a jack under after the fact.
MobileClimate
Member
Well the system will try to fill it to 200psi and if that fails it puts out the warning "compressor not working, leveling disabled"...
If you will the reservoir to 200psi it will work without compressor and not throw errors.
It's a bit silly that it disables leveling even when there is usable pressure in the reservoir, but that's how it is.
This is really interesting, thank you. Since I can only test it to 50psi, I'm tempted to take it (slowly) to my local garage and ask them to fill it to >200psi.
Does anyone have any thoughts re swapping the air lines -- in particular, whether the valves are default closed and so not under pressure when the car is off?
There's always pressure. There is no valve in the strut, just in the valve block. If car is at normal height, there must be pressure all the way to the valve block.
I suggest you replace the compressor. Last I checked it's quite a bargain from Tesla, at least in Europe it was only 229€ +tax! It's almost same price than those Chinese copies at ebay or amazon..
It's quite easy to replace. It will purge the tank but struts will stay filled. After changing the compressor, you should fill the reservoir so the new compressor doesn't overheat when filling it from zero.
Okay, thank you. Yes, headed towards replacing the compressor.
I can't do it myself; I will need to get it to a SC. This is where I'm still hoping to achieve something. Flatbed is an option, but expensive, and I'm worry about scraping under the front end to get it onto the truck.
What I'd like to do is follow your suggestion and get >200psi into the tank (so that the entire system isn't disabled by compressor failure). I took it to a local garage yesterday, but their compressor would only go to 100psi.
Any thoughts on what sort of establishment could inflate it to the right pressure?
Don’t need to worry so much about the actual PSI of the reservoir. Just fill it. Leaving it empty once the compressor is replaced just makes it run longer upon first startup. That’s what you want to avoid. I used the my local Costco’s nitrogen self-serve station…
Thank you -- but I'm hoping to get it filled properly before the compressor is replaced -- in hopes that once it is filled to a decent pressure there won't be demand on the compressor and so the front end of the car will rise so that it is drivable.
As things stand, what I discern is that the pressure in the system is too low -- so, the compressor is started, but since it is faulty the system throws an error, disabling the entire air suspension system. With sufficient pressure, perhaps the compressor won't be needed -- avoiding the error & thus enabling the system to raise the front end.
That’s not how it works. The compressor controls everything (based on feedback to the s/w), so if it’s dead, having the reservoir fully filled isn’t going to raise the suspension. No matter though, just fill it up regardless. Just don’t expect the front end to magically raise after you do so.
Also, when I said my front end was slammed, there was basically no gap between the tire and wheel well, but I was still able to drive it (carefully) to the SC. So if you have it flat-bedded, there may be a little scraping, but it shouldn’t be to the point of worrying about the bumper being ripped off unless the bumper and side skirts are literally touching the ground now.
