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ahh thanks!

wish there was an easy way to search within this thread - but Im interested in this retrofit on my May 2018 model 3. I briefly saw I would likely need a wiring harness (edit: maybe not?) as well as the headlights and special ethernet cable? Then do a day subscription to the toolbox to get it...

had to roll bak to 1.28.2 due to internal server error on the latest version

just chiming in with my experience - I've had the Hannshow powered frunk + trunk installed since dec 2019 and it still works great. Had it installed by RPM Tesla down in SoCal.

Pw2 isn't really "uninterruptable", there can be a slight delay to switchover after the grid goes down. I had to get actual UPS's for my server

FYI, that arbitrator did not favor replacement under warranty from that one guy: https://www.casteyanqui.com/ev/battery_disputed/index.html Really dumb, especially since this issue seems to be pretty damn common, and if it completely fails, you're pretty SOL to charge at home.

does anyone know when they start offering CCS retrofits, if that has anything to do with the PCS (replacing it)? I do want CCS compatibility added to my 2018 3, and if it may also fix the PCS issue if they need to replace it anyways, it would be a double win

Now Tesla wants to charge me "$127.50 for half hour of general diagnosis to inspect cause of concern" on top of the $1750 to fix it even though I gave them everything they need to know to figure out the issue. I've tested another Tesla with my wall connector, gets 40A. I tested my 3 with my...

have you updated your complaint stating that a second module has now failed? Tesla not covering this under the longer warranty is insane.

first response from Tesla: this is not covered under the battery warranty

I think its bad all around (I guess its good IF a module dies after your warranty so you can continue to charge, albiet slower speeds). At my previous residence, I just had a normal l2 charger running at 32A for 2 years no issues. If it would've self-diagnosed itself or cycle through different...

got the initial quote back: $1649 + $114 in taxes. I want to confirm that is my car and not my wall charger since I just got my 200amp connected yesterday. Should this error show up on all L2 chargers or only if it can go higher than 32A?

yeah, nope, thats ridiculous. I will fight this even if the cost was $200. I agree, this is 100% related to the battery, so should be covered under the battery warranty

good luck, hope it goes well for you. Im curious, what was their quoted charge to fix it?

any update on your dispute? Finally got my 200amp panel connected today and got my Gen 3 wall connector up and running. I then saw the dreaded PCS_a019 error and its limiting my charging to 32amps. The wall connector is on a 50amp breaker. Im at about 66k miles so my general warranty is over

Since it was a mobile service appointment, I had the frunk already opened. But if you remove the power, you can manually open it via app/screen and pull it open manually. Theres a slight resistance opening it manually, Im sure that may raise suspicions with service but probably not to the point...

FYI: 45k mile May 2018 Model 3 - had to finally replace my 12V battery (over 3 years old) as it threw up a service-required soon message. Since Im under 50k/5 years, I scheduled service to replace the 12V for free. I removed the two power cable connectors for the frunk/trunk liftgate and no...

make sure you enabled streaming API in teslamate, it shouldn't wake your car, ever. Otherwise, hit sign out in your teslamate settings and then change your Tesla password - that should stop it from running

looks better than the other ones

ah I see now, I have to update my docker compose with this: volumes: - ./.htpasswd:/auth/.htpasswd But I think Ill just leave teslamate private and allow grafana to be accessed since that is behind a login

right now its all on private, I didn't put it on a reverse proxy or open the ports to it until I can fully secure it behind a password. But honestly, might just keep it behind my network as I don't forsee myself needing to check on my Tesla Stats when Im out and about. Or maybe just make Grafana...

figured out how to hide all the dashboards if you're not logged in via each of the Dashboard permission settings. Just need to figure out where to put .htpasswd and I should be all set up!

thanks, I got it communicating to it correctly. Home assistant is pulling in the data from MQTT nicely: Last questions: Where do I put the .htpasswd file for teslamate if Im running the docker container? I can get into the container via sudo docker-enter, but not sure where to stick it How do...

How would I go about utilizing my current mosquitto docker container install that's already on port 1883? Anyway to point teslamate to use that in the docker-compose file or do I need to run another instance of it?

I have the hansshow kit and haven't noticed any increased drain or issues with the 12V battery. However, I have TeslaFi wake my car every 8 hours (only when its parked at home since Sentry would be on always outside my house, so that keeps everything on and charged) to charge my external...

ok so the general consensus here is to hold off on 4.18. Currently no issues here with 4.15 using a T5 connected directly to the USB port (no hubs)

no creaks or rattling hereon the orbitals - but my aeros did creak when driving slow and backing up

yeah, it's unbelievable that some people are actually defending the current charging options in Teslas.

ah ok, theyre a brand new set of rims that have removable covers like the Fast EV01 sets. I think most people in this thread and those interested in orbitals are looking for a cheaper alternative to completely change the look of the stock 18's. I do like the look of those though

IIRC, Frunk kick sensor wont work unless the car is unlocked completely, even if you have your phone key with you. It's a limitation of how the frunk works, I believe. So you have to either have to use the app to open the powered frunk or unlock your car/open a door before using the kick sensor...

no matter how many times you guys say "you are making it more complicated than it is", it's still confusing and unintuitive for me (and apparently many others). I've tried peak hours and scheduled departure and it would sometimes start charging during peak hours. I have went back to scheduled...

nice, keep us updated. The OP in that reddit thread noticed that there were additional scratches from what seemed to be from sand as well. likely because its like being sandblasted under the covers (which happens with the aero covers as well. Maybe we need to cover the edges with electrical tape...

RPM Tesla was great, very nice, fast, and highly recommended. I get they might not be the fastest or best online retailer (I had issues with them in the past with slow shipping) but their local shop was nothing but professional. They say Hannshow frunk+trunk has a 2 year warranty, so hopefully...

if it didnt have the weird little lit up squares surrounding it, it would look much better. This looks amateur and worse than the Altezza Euro lights phase everyone had (I had some on my old Accord)

I think most complaints about Hansshow are their customer service, so if there is something wrong or missing, you're at their mercy. However, if you are getting someone that knows what they are doing, they will be doing all the troubleshooting and service. I had my Hansshow frunk+trunk installed...

@Braumin Hyperdip is another good option and is made to withstand more harsh elements. I've never used it but apparently, people use it to dip their rims.

yep exactly. Has held up to California elements no problem (ash, smoke, and heat primarily), but would be easy to remove and reapply if it starts looking worn. Also, I usually shoot my pressure washer at the emblems without any issue

its just a language barrier/translation issue. Hansshow products are fine, I have the powered liftgate frunk/trunk and its been working great

if you want to change the color of your stock rims, use hyperdip which is designed for rims, whereas plastidip would likely not last from the elements and debris https://www.dipyourcar.com/collections/hyperdip I use plastidip on my emblems

can you link what you will be adding? Thanks

some scratches on the outer edge of the rim, under the Orbitals. OP said he has driven about 3k miles since having them. I'll go check mine but honestly, my rim edges were already so bad from curb rashing, this may help create a uniform look 😂

I recommend just using plastidip, its cheap and easy. No removal of the badge required I took it a step further and bought a matching top vinyl to match my chrome delete (matrix black). you can just buy a satin or glossy emblem to slap ontop of a plastidipped logo and it'll look good.

this was posted on reddit:

yep, if it becomes a problem, then back to Aero I go. They just look so much better than aero that it's worth a shot.

yep, we'll see after some months of usage and see how they are holding up The poster right above me just had curb rash and it didn't go flying off, so hope they are pretty securely on

shown in video here:

Microsoft just released testing for their cloud gaming service via browser: Introducing cloud gaming on Xbox.com (Beta) | Xbox (currently have to be invited, but should be available for all Game Pass Ultimate subscribers later in the year) It works but it's pretty laggy (input lag and sound was...

just used a cheapo ryobi pressure washer (I may need to upgrade this though) with a 25-degree tip to prewash, foam cannon + Chemical Guys Honeydew Snow Foam Car Wash Soap, let rest for 5 minutes, then 40-degree tip on the pressure washer to wash off the foam, spray area with Aero Cosmetics Wash...

just washed and waxed it after getting the Rimetrix Orbital covers. Maybe time to get the brake calipers painted now that you can see them (had aero covers before)

silver on silver looks really good. No idea why tesla got rid of that color