Damn, Jeb. You made me laugh with that one
Well done, my friend!!
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Best (most problem free and well supported) Power Frunk for the 2023
- Thread starter jebinc
- Start date
GreenHokie
Member
Shouldnāt you be out testing FSD-Beta?! I know youāre a big fan of all the recent improvementsā¦.
And, so what if I have junk in my frunk!! Everybody needs a little junk in their livesā¦
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FSD(j)ās biggest fan is @Ramphex! Heās been quiet of late; perhaps banned for being such an FSD(j) fanboy?!Shouldnāt you be out testing FSD-Beta?! I know youāre a big fan of all the recent improvementsā¦.
So what if I have junk in my frunk!! Everybody needs a little junk in their livesā¦
I know I know Iāve been slacking. The 15 days in Philippines kept me busy, then catching up on life after coming back, and now about to head over to San Diego on Friday.FSD(j)ās biggest fan is @Ramphex! Heās been quiet of late; perhaps banned for being such an FSD(j) fanboy?!
I dont have a problem with wires being ziptied. Wires are "soft", "flexible" and do not have a lot of mass.
If it is a "big/heavy" actuator motor made out of either hard plastic or metal, being ziptied to something else, there is a risk that it will either wear the zipties out / cut them, because of vibrations or it might even break whatever it is ziptied to, because of the vibrations from the actuator.
Maybe i am being a bit pedantic, but if there is one thing i have learned from my many years in food production, it's that zipties can never be trusted for anything important and especially if you ziptie something that will be "hard" to get to and inspect, you are setting yourself up for disaster.
In my world, zipties are primarily to be used as a temporary fastener, to get you running again, until you can replace whatever broke and made the ziptie needed in the first place.
Oh and offcourse if you use it in a place where there is no potential problem if it fails. For example if you ziptie the bundled up wire for a television and puts it behind the TV. If the ziptie fails, the only thing that will happen is, the wire will hang down from the TV, instead of being hidden behind.
GreenHokie
Member
Yeah, Iāve enjoyed reading some of the bitchingā¦ uhh, I mean feedbackā¦ from both you and @Ramphex regarding your experiences with FSDBeta in one of the FSD sub forums. Some of the exchanges between the two of you have been very entertaining! Please keep contributing!!FSD(j)ās biggest fan is @Ramphex! Heās been quiet of late; perhaps banned for being such an FSD(j) fanboy?!
GreenHokie
Member
So, if you do end up trying out & installing one of these kits for yourself, I think youāll realize the following:
1. Both the control module and the latch motor are extremely light weight and have very little mass. So, in reality, there is very little mass/weight to support/secure with zip ties.
2. Neither the controller or motor moves when you activate the open/close function. When you are near the end of the installation process, the recommended procedure is to test the open/close function to make sure everything works properly before you zip-tie/secure everything and reassemble all the frunk components. When you perform this open/close test run, youāll realize the latch motor and cable do not really move or jerk around when it runs. So, it does not take much to āsecureā either the motor or controller.
The only movement is on the latch end of the cable, but that end is securely bolted onto the vehicleās OEM latch mechanism.
3. When placed in their suggested locations, I have found that you donāt even need to zip tie/secure either the latch motor or controller. When I installed the frunk kit on my M3P 3-1/2 years ago, I actually did not use any zip ties or anything to secure either the controller or motor. All I did was lightly wrap the controller and motor with some light foam (just to provide some cushioning). Over the years, I have periodically removed the frunk liner to check on the motor and controller. You know what I found?ā¦ neither the controller or motor has moved from the spot where I originally placed them. The foam wrap is actually keeping both the motor and controller ālockedā in place. Even if they did move/bounce around a little, you are also going to realize during the installation process that there is really nothing around either of these components that could potentially be damaged with any movement of the controller or motor.
Of course, I would still recommend securing with zip-ties, because this is generally a good practice. I am simply sharing my experience with no zip ties to demonstrate what would happen in your feared worse case scenario (where the zip ties break)ā¦ which is absolutely nothing.
GreenHokie
Member
I bought the Hansshow power frunk when I purchased my MYP last fall, but didnāt install it until spring. Definitely use the frunk much more with it powered than without; just about daily now rather than around twice a month before. Handy for stashing things I want out of sight (my build was Fremont, just a week or two before cargo cover was added).
Have worked on cars for 35 years, have replaced clutches, dropped an engine (thought better of it and scrapped the car) have added a/c, cruise control, backup cameras, fog lights, done body work/painting, replaced stereos, etc. I know my way around vehicles very well.
Took my time with the install and it worked flawlessly. Biggest concern post install wasā¦. What if one strut goes out and the other keeps working, is there a possibility the hood could be damaged?
From online reviews already knew post install manufacturer service could be challenging. Well, figured, the utility value would be so satisfying that it would be worth the risk and if it *maybe* someday cost me $3,000 in repairs the benefit outweighs the risk.
My worst fear hasnāt happened, but what I thought a minor irritation: The frunk no longer closes from the app. Okay, well, go in and hit the dash to close the frunk. Today I get an alert the frunk is openā¦ thing is, I didnāt have the app open on screen. Meaning it opened itself. Now Iām imagining being parked at the airport. Calling my wife to drive to the airport (if we arenāt traveling together) to drive 40 minutes one way to the airport parking ramp to push the button on the screen of the car to close the frunkā¦
Wish Tesla had an aftermarket option available. Personally Iād pay two, three, four times what these crap kits cost to have a Tesla kit installed. Doubt that will happen, but expect (hope) they will add them to upcoming refresh of M3 and MY. Except I love my MYP and my wife just also bought a 2023 Tesla, hers is a MYLR, so we wonāt be replacing our vehicles for a long time.
Definitely wouldnāt go without a power frunk. But might be replacing mine with the EVOffer.
Have worked on cars for 35 years, have replaced clutches, dropped an engine (thought better of it and scrapped the car) have added a/c, cruise control, backup cameras, fog lights, done body work/painting, replaced stereos, etc. I know my way around vehicles very well.
Took my time with the install and it worked flawlessly. Biggest concern post install wasā¦. What if one strut goes out and the other keeps working, is there a possibility the hood could be damaged?
From online reviews already knew post install manufacturer service could be challenging. Well, figured, the utility value would be so satisfying that it would be worth the risk and if it *maybe* someday cost me $3,000 in repairs the benefit outweighs the risk.
My worst fear hasnāt happened, but what I thought a minor irritation: The frunk no longer closes from the app. Okay, well, go in and hit the dash to close the frunk. Today I get an alert the frunk is openā¦ thing is, I didnāt have the app open on screen. Meaning it opened itself. Now Iām imagining being parked at the airport. Calling my wife to drive to the airport (if we arenāt traveling together) to drive 40 minutes one way to the airport parking ramp to push the button on the screen of the car to close the frunkā¦
Wish Tesla had an aftermarket option available. Personally Iād pay two, three, four times what these crap kits cost to have a Tesla kit installed. Doubt that will happen, but expect (hope) they will add them to upcoming refresh of M3 and MY. Except I love my MYP and my wife just also bought a 2023 Tesla, hers is a MYLR, so we wonāt be replacing our vehicles for a long time.
Definitely wouldnāt go without a power frunk. But might be replacing mine with the EVOffer.
If you are using IOS, using widget still working for closing the frunk as well as custom shortcut that uses Tesla API
To be fair it does not seem that there is any powered frunk option that is not "Chinese junk".
If only Tesla made a kit....
yerEVan
Active Member
I had a hannshow for 2 years for Model 3 frunk/trunk and kick sensor. Worked awesome but you could not close from screen inside car. Now have the evoffer for ā21 MS. Works great but 2 things
1) you canāt push it down manually as the struts are not at proper angle, you have to use power to shut it so if 12v dies, you are screwed.
2) the closing latch just broke and itās been 15 months since install. Reached out via Telegram to them and they are replacing latch (yet to receive it) under warranty I presume.
I can still use it but have to push it down to latch fully.
Just my experience.
1) you canāt push it down manually as the struts are not at proper angle, you have to use power to shut it so if 12v dies, you are screwed.
2) the closing latch just broke and itās been 15 months since install. Reached out via Telegram to them and they are replacing latch (yet to receive it) under warranty I presume.
I can still use it but have to push it down to latch fully.
Just my experience.
Sounds like before Tesla sent the unlatch signal no matter the frunk position, but now they only send it if the status is "closed"I have not had any issues with anything Hannshow, had the power frunk for 2 years on Wife's Model Y, and power frunk 4 years on my Model 3. As of the latest app update you can no longer close either using the phone app. Looks like Tesla has broken that functionality.
That's sad, that was a nice feature to be able to also close via the screen or app.
How does one then go about closing the frunk now ?
geordi
Mr Fusion V.1
Hansshow must be doing something different, I have the EVoffer kit and am on current software - I can issue a close command (it's the same open command on the screen or the app) and it behaves as expected, closes just fine.
The car should not be capable of responding to an open command while in drive. I DID have one incident where it opened in drive right after I installed it, thankfully at low enough speed that the only damage was to the lift supports and not the car itself. I determined that a loose cable laying in the frunk must have touched the emergency escape button and THAT was why it opened. Those buttons really should have a safety cover over them so that a trapped person can still use them, but debris cannot.
Mine now has a flap of wood over the button held with a ziptie, and I have had no further problems. I do not have children or plan on kidnapping any, so I don't foresee a need to use that button ever again.
The car should not be capable of responding to an open command while in drive. I DID have one incident where it opened in drive right after I installed it, thankfully at low enough speed that the only damage was to the lift supports and not the car itself. I determined that a loose cable laying in the frunk must have touched the emergency escape button and THAT was why it opened. Those buttons really should have a safety cover over them so that a trapped person can still use them, but debris cannot.
Mine now has a flap of wood over the button held with a ziptie, and I have had no further problems. I do not have children or plan on kidnapping any, so I don't foresee a need to use that button ever again.
Have to use the button on the trunk or the button in the Frunk, or the onscreen button. At the moment it's only the app that has changed. I'm betting when the newest FSD is installed on our cars that only the hard buttons in the car will work.
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