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That happens to me all the time. Often it’s a pebble that gets stuck between the brake rotor and heat shield. Makes a HORRIBLE grinding noise that can change with steering angle and/or reversing. Jack up the offending corner, take the wheel off, and bang/pry around the heat shield a bit...

really? that very same service center charged me $15 to reprogram a set of keys purchased from eBay. oh wait, maybe that was Palo Alto? they even tried to program a 3rd key from a model x with my model s, even though they said it wouldn’t work (but they tried anyway for fun)

I'd just pop it back in myself...

Is it possible that they're shipping units with lesser "quality" cells? Like ones that have greater imbalance or such? Kinda like binned CPUs... Seems like a great way to salvage packs that might have failed QA. (presuming they have QA)

Thats an interlock error, but you'll need the other errors too. Have you gone into service mode and looked?

In my case, the rear drive unit was replaced under warranty, but it was likely only tangentially related. The cable to the front drive unit did have a short to the shield at the front connector. That one plug is noticeably floppy and wiggling it makes the short intermittent. So far replacing...

You sure about that? The gen 1 FJB has the DCDC converter built in (that weird shaped one). The gen 2 is up against the firewall/bulkhead and is separate to the DCDC. I didn't think either of them had wires to the front motor. In fact, didn't the gen 1 predate dual motor cars? Ahh, I think...

I bought these: https://a.co/d/d5hFiuQ The 25 was pretty much as cheap as 20 (was $30 then, seems to be $35 now), so I figured I'd have a few extra. They're great. I highly recommend them, best $30 spent on the car -- I've had soooo many of the crappy stock ones fail. I also like the looks...

Hi folks, sorry for the disappearance there for a bit, and thanks again for the help. An update: On Friday, I had a tow lined up through AAA, but they took 4 1/2 hours to get there despite them saying they were "10 minutes away". Yeah, dude, I see you on your little map driving AWAY from my...

Yep, definitely suspicious of water/coolant intrusion back there. Since I'm still under battery and DU warranty, I'm comfortable having relegated the problem to the back of the car. I've ruled out the BS about the front so now I can defend my "no, I'm not giving you $1600 to NOT fix it"...

Well, I couldn't find a megaohmmeter on short notice, so what I did was disconnect the HV pair that go to the front at the rear junction box under the seat. Closed the rear box back up and turned the car on. Same result (and no add'l errors). To me, this means that since the HVIL loop is...

Yep, my thoughts exactly. I did inspect and reseat all 4 plugs on the FJB this morning, all clean, all reseated well, no change. Loud sound from compressor wasn't at car startup, it was just sometimes. I'd often notice it about halfway through supercharging. Could be totally unrelated...

Thanks Howard, yours was definitely one of the many many threads I pored over for knowledge. And yes, it does sound like only the precharge contactor is closing, definitely not the full contactor. The HVIL loop is definitely intact because the car definitely knows when the first responder loop...

Hi all, I'm in need of help. I have a 2015 P85D (March 2015, P69xxx) that has recently gotten the dreaded "Unable to start vehicle – Service is required" error. QUICK TL;DR: iso faults, BMS_f151 & BMS_w142, towed to service who said battery coolant heater, but then it drove, but then errored...

no one knows? just in case I was confusing: I have a 90 mph autopilot limit. Nine zero. if I update, will it go DOWN to 85?

In the release notes for 2022.12.3.6, it says the Autopilot speed limit is up to 85mph from 80mph for ALL cars. For those of with radar and a 90mph limit, does this nerf us? Just making sure before updating, especially given the numerous bugs MCU1-updated-to-MCU2 cars have had. Thanks!

100% the security certificate. happened on mine too. (not the audio though, that's likely separate)

Suspension parts seem to not be Tesla's strong suit. This was the rear upper (camber) control link from my 2015 P85D. "Standard wear and tear" was the claim. Pretty cheap extrusion to me. At least it was only $100 for a used part and 20 minutes for the repair, which I did myself *in the...

almost certainly a change from: if(carGraphic()) showChargeLimit(); to: //if(carGraphic()) showChargeLimit(); in seriousness though, it was probably something like height = carGraphic().height; changed to height = max(300,carGraphic().height) ;

it's really not there. it's empty for me too:

very interested as well

hah, I hadn't seen that video but I'm glad it pretty much said everything I typed from memory 👍 one note though -- if you're reusing the ride height sensor link stud, do NOT pry it off like they do in that video! just unscrew the nut and slide out the stud, leaving it attached to the plastic link.

I feel you. sometimes things just are hard the first time. I just did this myself in the Tesla service center parking lot when they wanted months and a diagnosis fee for a clearly stress-failed part. for other viewers (or if you ever need to do it again) here's some tips -- it shouldn't take...

haven't done that one, but did just do the rear upper control arm and it was trivial. I ended up doing it in the parking lot of the Tesla service center in about 30 minutes. they told me it was a "wear item" and even though it's under warranty and broke in half, it would still be $650 and two...

can't wait for charging amperage. as it is now, I have to go down to the car several times a day to match my solar system output. I bet this also means it's now in the API so I can start writing scripts rather than going down the rathole of building a custom EVSE to do so. ps. did you get...

how do you know? 😉

that action takes me out of the Tesla app and over to Apple Maps, with directions to myself.

looks like too much camber on the front right wheel (i.e. top of the wheel is tilted too much inward). it's not too too bad so you could just live with it, keeping an eye on your inner edge tire wear. and no, ordering a rear anything is not going to help. I wouldn't worry about getting an...

it's one of my biggest peeves. AFAIK, it's always done it and it drives me nuts.

tbh, now that I know where the charging locations moved to, I think it's an improvement. before, I had a list of 4 random destination chargers that I had no idea where they were. now, a quick pinch out shows me chargers on a map with availability. definite thumbs up from me. it'd be two...

Don't know why you'd need studs, just get new nuts. I got these and they're awesome. Best $30 spent on the car yet. Coyote - 25 Chrome 14x1.5 OEM Acorn Lug Nuts Large Seat Factory Wheel Rim Lugs 1.5" Tall https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075CSW64L/

I had the same problem, and ended up with the same solution -- upgrade to MCU2. Wish I’d gotten the discount, and to be honest, they should do it free. They actually ended up double charging me too, and worse, refused to acknowledge it, so I had to have my credit card company do a chargeback.

MCU2 upgraded 2015 P85D here, and yes, this just started happening to me today. It's almost every song. I'm still on 2021.4.18 but it's prompting me to install the already downloaded 2021.24.5. I haven't yet since I came here to survey all the batterygate/accelerationgate/chargegate issues...

bumping a thread -- was looking at these yesterday. my stock rear UCA cracked and bent on Wednesday and so I need something to replace it. I saw those and some LYKT ones as well. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Adjustable-Rear-Alignment-Camber-Arm-Kit-Fits-Tesla-Model-X-S-078-1-/184974778066...

Dropped it off this morning and one advisor said "yeah it just takes $250 off" to the other advisor, but ultimately they weren't able to do it. as was mentioned in the big MCU2 thread, yeah, looks like the "B" part (w/o screen) no longer exists. as for the refund, we'll see. by language it...

hmmm, not sure actually. on one hand, I agree with you -- cross-posting an unrelated keyfob anecdote isn't helpful in big threads like this. on the other hand, feeding the troll isn't helpful either. and suggesting that you keep spare phones everywhere to workaround a clear failure of the car...

Ahh, it's back! Thanks Dave – I was upset that fixmyev.com disappeared when I went to look there first, but this looks like the same content. Scraping now!

haha, yeah. it's funny, there's another thread (the only one really) about a fender, and they actually meant bumper. They were eventually called out on it. :confused:

Thanks! I just watched the guy at the yard take one off and it wasn't too bad, especially since he just yanked back the rocker to get to the bottom bolts. I'll probably post a write-up and/or video when I get to it since there doesn't seem to be one.

thanks airborne spoon, I appreciate the reply, but that's how to take off the bumper, not fender! as for why, it's this:

Hi all, I've searched high and low for instructions on removing and replacing the front fender on a Model S. I've heard the side-skirts have to come off (and I found Unplugged's awesome guide here) but nothing about the fender itself. Anyone have any pointers? Thanks in advance!

I'm totally interested in pictures of the modification -- I've considered doing the same, especially seeing how pricey the minimal 2000lbs hitch is. do you have the rear-facing seats reinforcement bar?

I'm totally in. I'm in the bay area (san jose). email me: [email protected] edit: mine's black too

that's been the used strategy from day 1, no?

the range reduction is from the 16.1+ software enforcing a lower maximum voltage (~4.1v instead of 4.2v) at 100% SoC. there's a (very) long thread about it. as for me, I've only had my used 2015 P85D for about 3000 miles now, but I consistently get 420wh/mil, both in day to day use and over...

main thread here: Firmware 2019.24.1 [AP1/MCU1 - just sketchpad improvements]

I see the same thing, but even more drastic than yours. My taper crosses 36kW at 50%. There’s another thread over here: 2019 Supercharging Speed Update Nerfed Overall Charge Times

Hi all, 2015 P85D here with 30,000 miles. I’ve been reading through the two gigantic battery threads (battery limit and supercharge limit) but they don’t reflect what I’m seeing. This thread is much closer, but mine is much more drastic. Starting about two or three weeks ago (coincident with...

when I took delivery of my car, the delivery guy said "it's updating, but you can drive it anyway." he'd driven it to me like that. he said it'll be an hour -- but it never completed. dead MCU. the car was in diagnostic mode with all unlocalized text on the instrument cluster. it took about...

Right, I wouldn’t consider the 2 year warranty "loaded" — it’s missing out on the key advantage of buying from Tesla. And it has 67,000+ miles. And it’s ugly as heck — how many different color materials could the original owner jam in there??? Anyways, yes, cheaper alternatives exist, but...