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2021 Center Console Retrofit

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It seems like a lot but it’s really not bad at all and it’s a nice upgrade. The old console just feels clunky and like a big piece of plastic with those stupid lids covering the storage and phone charging. The new one seems much cleaner and sleek. Obviously personal preference but I’m really glad I did the swap.
Thanks, really appreciate your comments. Which data module did you use? I am putting mine in an early 2021 Model Y (Prior to console upgrade). I do not know if the data cable is in mine or I need to add one. I ordered this kit from email so hopefully this will move the sentry drive connection to the center console, because I do not have the glove box USB input.


Hopefully I will have everything I need. Did you do the install yourself?
 
Thanks, really appreciate your comments. Which data module did you use? I am putting mine in an early 2021 Model Y (Prior to console upgrade). I do not know if the data cable is in mine or I need to add one. I ordered this kit from email so hopefully this will move the sentry drive connection to the center console, because I do not have the glove box USB input.


Hopefully I will have everything I need. Did you do the install yourself?
I used that same Tparts module. If you have sentry data working in the center console right now then you have the data cable. It’s only for newer cars where they removed the data cable since data is wired to the glovebox usb for sentry instead.

I did the install myself. You’ll be in the exact same position as my 2020 model Y. The only extra parts that you’ll have to buy are the console and the data module. The data cable and card reader will be moved over from the old console.
 
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I used that same Tparts module. If you have sentry data working in the center console right now then you have the data cable. It’s only for newer cars where they removed the data cable since data is wired to the glovebox usb for sentry instead.

I did the install myself. You’ll be in the exact same position as my 2020 model Y. The only extra parts that you’ll have to buy are the console and the data module. The data cable and card reader will be moved over from the old console.
Ok that is very helpful, I was worried about the data cable and if it would be long enough. The module would not swap from console to console would it? You are brave to do this yourself!
 
Ok that is very helpful, I was worried about the data cable and if it would be long enough. The module would not swap from console to console would it? You are brave to do this yourself!
The module on my console 1.0 was usb A ports. The 2.0 is usb C ports so it won’t fit correctly. I’m not sure exactly when they switched to usb C ports but yours are probably usb A like mine if I had to guess
 
The module on my console 1.0 was usb A ports. The 2.0 is usb C ports so it won’t fit correctly. I’m not sure exactly when they switched to usb C ports but yours are probably usb A like mine if I had to guess
It is, but that front module still uses the mini USB b connection right? I wonder if that cable will work or if you need to run a new cable. Of course it is a generic cable with no "auto grade" clips to hold it in place.
 
It is, but that front module still uses the mini USB b connection right? I wonder if that cable will work or if you need to run a new cable. Of course it is a generic cable with no "auto grade" clips to hold it in place.
The data cable on the old console works fine. Just pull it out and connect it to the new module and route it through the bottom of the console. Then once you install the new console you’ll connect it to the other end that stays in the car.
 
It’s a very straightforward install. It’s 6 bolts And two wire connections when all is said and done.

One thing to bear in mind, if you don’t have the data port in your glovebox, is that you’ll only have the two usb-C ports for sentry and charging. The usb hubs that are available that sit in the path of the sliding door use both usb ports, which will force you to have your sentry drive out in view.

I would recommend the Jowua USB hub that actually goes inside the storage bin and hook up your sentry mode storage in there so it’s somewhat hidden.

Just my .02!
 
It’s a very straightforward install. It’s 6 bolts And two wire connections when all is said and done.

One thing to bear in mind, if you don’t have the data port in your glovebox, is that you’ll only have the two usb-C ports for sentry and charging. The usb hubs that are available that sit in the path of the sliding door use both usb ports, which will force you to have your sentry drive out in view.

I would recommend the Jowua USB hub that actually goes inside the storage bin and hook up your sentry mode storage in there so it’s somewhat hidden.

Just my .02!
Thanks so much, appreciate the guidance. It is a little more complex though as you have to swap out the card reader. I am getting it done tomorrow. I will keep every one posted. I am more concerned with bricking the car and the proper procedure to turn off the power to the car so that does not happen.
 
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Thanks so much, appreciate the guidance. It is a little more complex though as you have to swap out the card reader. I am getting it done tomorrow. I will keep every one posted. I am more concerned with bricking the car and the proper procedure to turn off the power to the car so that does not happen.
The card reader is not difficult. It’s held in by 2 Torx 20 screws. (The side panels of the console both gen 1 and 2 come off with a pry tool and all screws are Torx 20) You just need a pry tool to remove the cup holder fascia which is 5 plastic tabs with the metal retaining clips. You just go slowly. It’s not that bad at all. It’s easier to do with both consoles out of the car. Just do the card reader swap before you install gen 2.0.

Also if you’re worried about bricking the car, disconnect the 12v battery negative terminal in frunk and then disconnect the High Voltage connector under the rear passenger seat. You’ll hear the clunk and you’re good to unplug anything without worrying about bricking.

Just Reconnect everything before attaching the battery connectors (canbus and usb data) reconnect batteries in reverse order, high voltage then 12V.

Leave doors trunk and frunk open before you disconnect batteries so you have access to the car on all sides if needed.
 
The card reader is not difficult. It’s held in by 2 Torx 20 screws. (The side panels of the console both gen 1 and 2 come off with a pry tool and all screws are Torx 20) You just need a pry tool to remove the cup holder fascia which is 5 plastic tabs with the metal retaining clips. You just go slowly. It’s not that bad at all. It’s easier to do with both consoles out of the car. Just do the card reader swap before you install gen 2.0.

Also if you’re worried about bricking the car, disconnect the 12v battery negative terminal in frunk and then disconnect the High Voltage connector under the rear passenger seat. You’ll hear the clunk and you’re good to unplug anything without worrying about bricking.

Just Reconnect everything before attaching the battery connectors (canbus and usb data) reconnect batteries in reverse order, high voltage then 12V.

Leave doors trunk and frunk open before you disconnect batteries so you have access to the car on all sides if needed.
Thanks so much Paulie Really appreciate the guidance. I will let you know how it goes! Again - thanks so much!
 
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Install went great no issues, I now have an early 2021 build with the newer center console. Trying to decide on teh next upgrade! Does anyone have experience with a good rear cargo cover?
Get a nice vinyl wrap for it, and a usb hub/docking station?

If you don’t have the usb data port in the glovebox, I recommend upgrading to the data module (t-parts one or OEM), and pick up the JOWUA usb hub that connects to the 2 usb-c ports inside the storage bin. You can plug your sentry drive into that and still have all your ports available and close the sliding bin door. Their sliding console tray is very nice too. I’ve reviewed a few of their products on my channel.

If you do have the glovebox data port, you can go with any of the “floating” usb docking stations that will give you the usb ports right at the top of your console. Some of them now have air diffusers and cable pass thru slots which is kinda neat. To each their own!

Glad the install went well 🍻
 
I actually added the T-parts one at the time of install, since I have an early 2021 build - no data in the glovebox. I tried to purchase the OEM one but it was Tesla only and they would not sell it to me. No additional parts yet. Between the tow data/charging ports in the center console and then the two for the back seat I think I am set. Just me and the wife, kids are all grown up!
 
Get a nice vinyl wrap for it, and a usb hub/docking station?

If you don’t have the usb data port in the glovebox, I recommend upgrading to the data module (t-parts one or OEM), and pick up the JOWUA usb hub that connects to the 2 usb-c ports inside the storage bin. You can plug your sentry drive into that and still have all your ports available and close the sliding bin door. Their sliding console tray is very nice too. I’ve reviewed a few of their products on my channel.

If you do have the glovebox data port, you can go with any of the “floating” usb docking stations that will give you the usb ports right at the top of your console. Some of them now have air diffusers and cable pass thru slots which is kinda neat. To each their own!

Glad the install went well 🍻
Can you please share the link to your channel? Thanks!
 
The card reader is not difficult. It’s held in by 2 Torx 20 screws. (The side panels of the console both gen 1 and 2 come off with a pry tool and all screws are Torx 20) You just need a pry tool to remove the cup holder fascia which is 5 plastic tabs with the metal retaining clips. You just go slowly. It’s not that bad at all. It’s easier to do with both consoles out of the car. Just do the card reader swap before you install gen 2.0.

Also if you’re worried about bricking the car, disconnect the 12v battery negative terminal in frunk and then disconnect the High Voltage connector under the rear passenger seat. You’ll hear the clunk and you’re good to unplug anything without worrying about bricking.

Just Reconnect everything before attaching the battery connectors (canbus and usb data) reconnect batteries in reverse order, high voltage then 12V.

Leave doors trunk and frunk open before you disconnect batteries so you have access to the car on all sides if needed.
did you end up splicing the phone charger wire to one of the usb cables for power?
 
Well I finally built up enough courage to tackle this today. All in all it took me about 3 and a half hours, but that included some hoovering and cleaning.

The biggest problem I had - oddly enough - was the cover at the back of the console. I couldn't get it removed for love nor money.. took me probably 20 minutes and various trim tools (which were useless) before I got it off, and I cut my finger in the process. The metal clips on that thing are far too unforgiving for such a simple piece of trim in my opinion.

Because TESBROS didn't disconnect the 12v/HV in their install video, I thought I'd do the same. I removed all 6 bolts on the console, powered down the car, waited until it clunked and verified that it was asleep with TeslaMate, then removed the USB and CANBUS connector. I did make the mistake of not raising the seats up, which made it difficult to remove the two at the back, but everything else went smooth enough.

Unfortunately for me, when I unplugged the CANBUS my automatic boot opened (it's plugged in there to monitor state), which woke the car up. Disaster! The screen didn't come on, but the familiar HV clunk was heard.

At this point I just carried on because the console was already disconnected. I ended up pulling the console back and up from the back seat (I confirmed that lying on the back seat didn't wake the car up, like sitting in the drivers seat (and passenger?) does. This was quite a tricky thing to do solo, as was maneuvering the new console over the top of the seats from the back. It slid into place easily enough though. While I was doing all of this I heard the car clunk again to go back to sleep.

Since I knew plugging in the CANBUS would wake the car up again, I decided to plug in the USB cable first. This didn't wake the car. Plugging in the CANBUS made the boot open again, and woke the car up (again nothing on the screen). I tested all of the functionality (forgot to test the USB-C ports IN the console for data, but I'm confident it'll be there since my console came from an August 2021 car), which all worked.

Not powering the car down properly did cost me though, as now the car is complaining about low tyre pressures on all 4 tyres. Looking at the pressures on the screen in the car showed them to be normal, so I'm hoping this will clear itself after a sleep.

Since I didn't switch the security controller all of my keys were wiped and I can't drive the car. I knew this going in though - I didn't want to strip down the 2.0 console because it was in mint condition and I didn't trust myself not to break something. Mobile service appointment booked to get the new security controller paired, which I imagine will be a paid job rather than warranty.

EDIT: Tesla want £170 (~$205) to pair the security controller - ouch! Kinda wish I'd taken it apart now!
So I’m assuming disconnecting the hv is the way to go
 
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