2021 Tesla Model 3 Performance Bumpy Suspension

[LightSaber]

Apparently the 2021 Model 3 is the only year where they lowered the car by 10mm via the use of different springs and dampers.

After acquiring the vehicle I noticed that the 20" Uberturbine Wheels and Michelin Pilot Sport 4S (235/35ZR20) was too bumpy for LA roads

Due to ride quality being a huge issue, I did the following:

• Switched 2021 Performance Stock Suspension > 2022 Long Range Stock Suspension
• Switched 20" Uberturbine Wheels > 2023 Long Range 18" Aero V2 Wheels and Michelin Primacy (235/45ZR18)

I made the mistake of not getting the wheels aligned after the switch and had to buy a completely new set because the previous alignment for the Uberturbines could have morphed/bent the previous set.

The problem...
After a new set of wheels and proper alignment the car still loses alignment within 1-2 days. The front wheels doesn't feel like its working in unison with the back wheels nor each other..

Before switching to a 2nd set of Aero wheels, when the steering wheel is turned all the way (left or right) the front left wheel was making a clunking noise. After switching to the 2nd set it disappeared.

Questions...

1. Could the wheel bearing have gone bad despite no longer making noises?
2. Are there any other parts beside the strut, shocks, springs that differ the models that I'm unaware of? (eg. control arm, end link, etc)
3. Could hitting the front or rear sway bar into a cement parking block affect the alignment or rocking motion of the vehicle?

When driving over a bump the car rocks left/right like a boat. When it goes into a dip the front end tilts differently between the two sides.

Currently Investigating...
I have an appointment with Firestone Complete Auto Care today to check on the wheel bearings, control arms, sway bar, end links, bearings, and bushings to see if anything needs to be replaced or tightened. I have an appointment with Tesla Service Center a few days from now for the same reasons as well as seeing if the motor unit is powering all the wheels evenly.

Any help is most appreciated!

 

[afadeev]

Apparently the 2021 Model 3 is the only year where they lowered the car by 10mm via the use of different springs and dampers.

Technically, it wasn't. But that's not germane to this discussion.

Due to ride quality being a huge issue, I did the following:

• Switched 2021 Performance Stock Suspension > 2022 Long Range Stock Suspension
• Switched 20" Uberturbine Wheels > 2023 Long Range 18" Aero V2 Wheels and Michelin Primacy (235/45ZR18)

I made the mistake of not getting the wheels aligned after the switch and had to buy a completely new set because the previous alignment for the Uberturbines could have morphed/bent the previous set.

The problem...
After a new set of wheels and proper alignment the car still loses alignment within 1-2 days. The front wheels doesn't feel like its working in unison with the back wheels nor each other..

That's peculiar, and not normal.
Car will not loose its alignment unless it experiences a dramatic encounter with immovable objects (aka a crash), or some elements of the suspension are loose and not properly torqued.
If you did the suspension swap yourself, I would go and retorque everything.
If someone else did it, have them do it for you. Or DIY it this time around, to be certain.

Before switching to a 2nd set of Aero wheels, when the steering wheel is turned all the way (left or right) the front left wheel was making a clunking noise. After switching to the 2nd set it disappeared.

That sounds like the spring on the LF strut hadn't settled into their mounting perches properly at first, but did over time.
This is not unheard of.

Questions...

1. Could the wheel bearing have gone bad despite no longer making noises?

That would be highly unlikely.

[*]Are there any other parts beside the strut, shocks, springs that differ the models that I'm unaware of? (eg. control arm, end link, etc)

Sure, there are a bunch of camber arms and upper/lower control arms.
Unless you are materially changing the ride height, you don't need to worry about any of those.

[*]Could hitting the front or rear sway bar into a cement parking block affect the alignment or rocking motion of the vehicle?

Sure.
Technically, you can't hit sway bar into anything without smacking the rest of the front suspension first.
If you have to ask this question, you really have to tell the "rest of the story"!

When driving over a bump the car rocks left/right like a boat. When it goes into a dip the front end tilts differently between the two sides.

That's definitely not right.
From where did you source your replacement 2022 LR suspension kit?
How many miles were on that suspension before it went on your car?

What you are describing would be consistent with one or more dead shocks.

Currently Investigating...
I have an appointment with Firestone Complete Auto Care today to check on the wheel bearings, control arms, sway bar, end links, bearings, and bushings to see if anything needs to be replaced or tightened. I have an appointment with Tesla Service Center a few days from now for the same reasons as well as seeing if the motor unit is powering all the wheels evenly.

1. Ditch Firsetone, they are cheap for a reason.
2. Find a competent independent shop that knows what they are doing. If you don't know where to look, check with your local BMW or Porsche car club chapters, and see what shops their members are patronizing.
3. Forget about Tesla SC. They will just sell you more OEM parts for your VIN.

HTH,
a

 

[Gauss Guzzler]

The Performance model has never been meaningfully lower than any other variant. Every Tesla has a slightly different ride height because they are constantly updating/reverting spring revisions. There's nothing special about 2021, but in 2022, they finally stopped "claiming" that the Performance model was lower, likely because it never was.

The Long Range model has the exact same spring rates as the Performance, so other than being indistinguishably higher, there's no difference whatsoever between the springs. Whoever told you the ride quality would change by switching to LR springs was grossly uninformed.

@afadeev is correct that if the springs are not clocked properly during installation, they'll pop into place over the next few weeks when you turn the wheel all the way. Also if your alignment is off and your tires are different, you may get dramatic but harmless scrubbing/jumping of the front tires when turned all the way.

Lastly, the front suspension sometimes falls off. So if your alignment is changing, you should ask the shop to check the front control arm bolts. They don't normally remove the front splash shield to expose these bolts so it's possible that they could be overlooked.

Suspension rattling sound turned out to be a loose bolt!

A month earlier we had our Model 3 serviced because of hearing some creaking sound on the front passenger side. However as luck would have it, it didn't show when taking it to Tesla Service, however they stated that they re-torqued the front and rear stabilizing arms. Fast forward to today...

teslamotorsclub.com

 

[chado]

Wait I thought the stock 18"s wouldn't clear the performance brakes

 

[afadeev]

Wait I thought the stock 18"s wouldn't clear the performance brakes

Some do, some don't.
OEM factory 18" wheels do NOT. Many aftermarket ones do.

a

 

[804son]

My opinion, the first place you went wrong was switching out the suspension. There was never a real appreciable difference in suspensions between the LR and the Performance. Changing the wheels and tires was probably the biggest difference that will lead to a meaningful change. If you still had issues, then go with a good set of aftermarket struts from MPP or Ohlins.
Something either isn't set-up properly or has come loose/lost alignment from impact. Best to get the suspension checked by a competent shop.

 

[FatM3]

Did you go into the tire settings to change the rim/tire size and summer/winter?

 

[LightSaber]

Thanks everyone who chimed in!

• I had a mechanic install the new 2022 LR Stock Suspension because the suspension was starting to show signs of failure @ 50k miles. One of the dampers made the vehicle lean/zigzag while driving.
• I wanted to keep the Performance Springs for a lowered look but due to bad experience torqueing the center nut on the strut with previously owned vehicles (Hyundai Elantra, Toyota Prius) using a thru-hole wrench and unique socket to prevent the center rod from moving around, I decided it would be easier to get a fully assembled strut, shock, and spring with a possibly softer front damper.

Suspension Notes:
The mechanic hand tightened everything wheel per wheel because he didn't have a lift or ramp to bring the vehicle up on all four. I was under the impression that the suspension needed to settle for 1-2 weeks before needing to permanently set the torque. It was until ride got bumpy that I went for an alignment to realize that it needed to be properly torqued during the installation and again under load to prevent the alignment from continuously drifting off..

Tomorrow I have an appointment with Tesla Service Center for them to torque everything to specification!

Questions:

• I don't have a ramp or lift to get under the car.. Can torquing be performed wheel per wheel or front/back using two floor jacks and 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" torque wrenches (<3% tolerance)?
• Would the suspension benefit from a lower tolerance digital torque wrench?
• Does the center nut holding the strut's top hat/spring need to be retorqued under load?

Sure, there are a bunch of camber arms and upper/lower control arms.
Unless you are materially changing the ride height, you don't need to worry about any of those.

My main concern is to fix the suspension without potentially damaging or causing premature wear of related components. I noticed the front damper and front/rear springs are the only parts that differ between the two variants (long range vs performance). Later down the road when I install MPP Adjustable Comfort Coilovers or Airlift Performance Air Suspension I'll look into upgrading the other parts (eg. camber, toe, trailing, cyber, and control arms, etc)

Technically, you can't hit sway bar into anything without smacking the rest of the front suspension first.
If you have to ask this question, you really have to tell the "rest of the story"!

In Los Angeles (and pretty much anywhere for that matter) there are rectangular parking blocks used to indicate a parking spot however some are irregularly placed toward the center of the spot and can make it in-between the wheels.

There could've been times I parked too far in that the extruded corners of the sway bar could have collided with the block. I have not taken the bottom tray/splash shield out to verify whether it had bent the bar or pried out the bushings/metal mount bolts. Idk if I'm overthinking this. For all I know most of my worries could just be coming from an improperly torqued suspension. I have added a note for the mechanic to check this out tomorrow during the retorque and alignment procedure.

Wait I thought the stock 18"s wouldn't clear the performance brakes

They don't. I used an angle sander to trim off a 1-2mm from the back of the brake calipers for them to fit.

Lastly, the front suspension sometimes falls off. So if your alignment is changing, you should ask the shop to check the front control arm bolts. They don't normally remove the front splash shield to expose these bolts so it's possible that they could be overlooked.

Suspension rattling sound turned out to be a loose bolt!

A month earlier we had our Model 3 serviced because of hearing some creaking sound on the front passenger side. However as luck would have it, it didn't show when taking it to Tesla Service, however they stated that they re-torqued the front and rear stabilizing arms. Fast forward to today...

teslamotorsclub.com

Thank you! I've put note for them to check every part of the suspension including the Front Lower Lateral Link as mentioned in the attached link

Did you go into the tire settings to change the rim/tire size and summer/winter?

Yes. Aside from affecting the total range and how the car is seen in the digital screen, I'm not sure it affects the ride from a digital sense.

 

[rotarypower101]

Wait I thought the stock 18"s wouldn't clear the performance brakes

They don't. I used an angle sander to trim off a 1-2mm from the back of the brake calipers for them to fit.

Would you have a descriptive photo of the modified Brembo Performance caliper you could share?
Did you only modify the front calipers, or rear also?

 

[afadeev]

I had a mechanic install the new 2022 LR Stock Suspension [...] The mechanic hand tightened everything wheel per wheel because he didn't have a lift or ramp to bring the vehicle up on all four. I was under the impression that the suspension needed to settle for 1-2 weeks before needing to permanently set the torque.

This is the CRAZIEST story I've ever heard.
Who is your mechanic? A hobo under the bridge?
Who has neither the lift, nor the torque wrench, nor care in the world to torque suspension pieces to spec before finishing the job?

This is not only massively careless and unsafe, but if true, is also absolutely nuts!

It was until ride got bumpy that I went for an alignment to realize that it needed to be properly torqued during the installation and again under load to prevent the alignment from continuously drifting off..

Or struts and wheels falling off the car and injuring you as well as others ....

Tomorrow I have an appointment with Tesla Service Center for them to torque everything to specification!
[...]I don't have a ramp or lift to get under the car.. Can torquing be performed wheel per wheel or front/back using two floor jacks and 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" torque wrenches (<3% tolerance)?

Why are you making plans to re-torque something, if you are already paying Tesla SC to torque everything to spec?!?!?!?
What are you trying to achieve?
Please don't touch the car after Tesla SC is done with it.
At all.
Ever!

Would the suspension benefit from a lower tolerance digital torque wrench?

In your case, definitely not!

Does the center nut holding the strut's top hat/spring need to be retorqued under load?

No.
You torque everything once, when you assemble the suspension.
That's it. Done.

My main concern is to fix the suspension without potentially damaging or causing premature wear of related components.

That should be the least of your concerns.
You were driving around with finger tight installed suspension, with fasteners working themselves loose, suspension skewing out of alignment, and well on the way to falling off the car altogether!?!
Depending on what speed you were driving when that happened, you could have been injured or killed in an accident, and injured or killed others around you.

This is nuts!

Wait I thought the stock 18"s wouldn't clear the performance brakes

They don't. I used an angle sander to trim off a 1-2mm from the back of the brake calipers for them to fit.

So now you've damaged and weakened the calipers, for the sake making wrong wheels fit on your car?
What's next - you will remove the calipers altogether?!?

Please STOP before someone gets hurt!

 

[LightSaber]

Would you have a descriptive photo of the modified Brembo Performance caliper you could share?
Did you only modify the front calipers, or rear also?

The rear brake callipers collide with the inside of the wheel by ~2mm whereas the front has ~1mm gap.

Metal is known to expand when hot. Even if the brakes rarely gets used the wheel can still expand similarly like how PSI increases on a warmer day or with extended drives as it picks up heat from the pavement or through friction.

To retrofit it like some people has here on the forums I used an angle sander to save off 2mm from the back of the rear caliper and 1mm from the front.

To cover the sanded area the matching color is RAL-3002 Carmine Red (High Temp)
Alternative: Amazon.com

This is the CRAZIEST story I've ever heard.
Who is your mechanic? A hobo under the bridge?
Who has neither the lift, nor the torque wrench, nor care in the world to torque suspension pieces to spec before finishing the job?

So now you've damaged and weakened the calipers, for the sake making wrong wheels fit on your car?
What's next - you will remove the calipers altogether?!?

While I appreciate the chiming in I believe you've jumped to conclusions.
Hand tightening still means using a ratchet. It's not 'Finger' tightened.

It was tighter (higher ft-lbs) than recommended torque values but not by much.
The mechanic roughly estimated how much strength it took for him to remove the bolt/nut and tried to estimate it when putting it back on with a little extra force. Better tighter than looser I guess. The Tesla Service Center Mechanic had to loosen them a little before getting the values dialed in.

Also your last sentences sounds like an exaggeration for something that would serve no purpose in relation to what has been done / was mentioned.

Conclusively the problem wasn't really the suspension to begin with. Tesla Service Center found that the rubber bushings on all four front control arms (2x compliance link, 2x lateral link) was very torn which made the alignment change significantly. I would not have known unless had I brought it in for a retorque since I'm not good at knowing when bushings need replacing especially on a vehicle with only 50k miles.