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battery life

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My 2013 had a failure late in year 7. It was replaced with a refurb (that means used) about midway through year 8 (long story). Was probably over 150k miles, approaching 255k now still on the 2nd pack.
A few years ago, a replacement pack would be over $20k. Now they are around $12k
$12k for a new replacement? I thought they were still $20k. I've been waiting for my battery to fail again so I can get a new one and restore my SC rates (lucky to get 85kw) and range (about 238m now which is not too bad). I've already decided I'm going to pay for a new battery rather than replace the car.
 
My 2013 had a failure late in year 7. It was replaced with a refurb (that means used) about midway through year 8 (long story). Was probably over 150k miles, approaching 255k now still on the 2nd pack.

$12k for a new replacement? I thought they were still $20k. I've been waiting for my battery to fail again so I can get a new one and restore my SC rates (lucky to get 85kw) and range (about 238m now which is not too bad). I've already decided I'm going to pay for a new battery rather than replace the car.
What percent degredation is the current battery?
 
Just a data point. My '21 Model 3, which gets traded tomorrow, had a battery failure at 16K miles / 2.5 years which required warranty replacement. Tesla replaced with a new pack and did a flawless job with the repair. A loaner was provided while they had the car, took about a week to get it back as I recall.
Why are the batteries failing at 16k ? Not a good look
 
Your question as to why his battery failed is a good question. He has not supplied the details so we will never know that answer.
Sorry but Tesla did not provide a Root Cause Analysis or a post-failure report. It was under warranty (8yr/120K), they replaced it with no hassle, and I went on my merry way. No different than an early engine or transmission failure in an ICE vehicle. Things fail sometimes.
 
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Have a bum window regulator in back seat that Tesla service doesnt want to replace for some reason (they've reset gratis but window still goes up too far when door opened) but minor gripe.
Interesting - my left rear window does something similar. As I open the door, the window goes down then immediately back up. Most of the time. Actually, it's probably not the regulator; but more likely the door latch.
 
There are two types of battery failure.
Other things than worn cells, and from worn cells.
Other things than worn cells happens from time to time, andtaking care of the degradation does’nt protect from this.

Worm cells: In general the lithium battery industry do consider a cell degraded 20% as consumed. The reason is that degradation is rather predictable until that level and the degradation beyond is not.
This most probably is valid for EV cells/batteries as well as they are basically the same thing. The research shows a very good relationship between other lithium ion cells and actual EV cells.

For the normal user cyclic aging (i.e “miles) do not really mather much. Normally it will be around 0.25-0.5% or so annually.

The absolute majority of the degradation after ~ 10 years will come from calendar aging. This will be around 15% for most users, using the cars as people mostly do. More or less than 15% mostly depending on the climate/average cell temp, but also charging habits.

This means we will be close to reaching 20% after then years, and we will probably se the failure rate from high degradation (dead cells, to much imbalance etc).

As the climate ( = average cell temps) varies, these 10 years will probably also vary with shorter times in warm climatesand longer in cold.