Can you use Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine followed up with a Ceramic Wax product?

[Nguyenning]

Just used opti seal for first time and think I used too much lol was probably doing 3-5 sprays per panel. Then I read only supposed to be 1 spray per panel!

At least my car is SUPER shiny now haha looks great
I’ll have to try hyper seal when this bottle runs out...

 

[Bill Foster]

I just used Hyper Seal for the first time today and I absolutely love it. It definitely feels slicker than Opti Seal and was super easy to apply. I applied it to my windows by immediately wiping it off with another dry, clean micro fiber towel. It is supposed to rain tomorrow and I will see how hydrophobic it is on glass. My only concern about Hyper Seal is that it is pretty expensive and, compared to Opti Seal, it is easy to use too much product. But overall I give Hyper Seal by Optimum a big thumbs up.

Not sure if you are using it as a drying aide as well, but it saves time and works the same/offers the same protection.

 

[joebruin77]

Not sure if you are using it as a drying aide as well, but it saves time and works the same/offers the same protection.

Yep, I’m going to try it as a drying aid. I want to compare it to my two favorite drying aids Meguiars D156 and Ammo Hydrate.

 

[Nitemare3219]

I exclusively use Optimum's products, because everything I've used so far as just worked well and it's not terribly expensive... hard to disagree with that!

I love doing ONR washes. Opti-seal is best applied on a dry, clean surface, but it is possible to wash, clay + wax, and seal in sequence (theragcompany has a video on it). Add a 2nd coat 12+ hours later, but no sooner. Finish with Optimum Car Wax (easy to apply spray wax) and you are good to go. I have their clay towel and it's also excellent. I would not apply Opti-seal every wash, because it's a sealant and it should last several months unless you use something that strips the sealant off - some car wash soaps (particularly the stuff at any business wash place), Optimum Power Clean, are some examples of things that will deteriorate the sealant. If doing proper maintenance washing with ONR, Opti-seal can last 6+ months according to Yvan Lacroix (OPT's training director). Still, every 3-4 months I'd probably strip the paint with Power Clean and start fresh since the products are easy to apply and cheap to do so.

 

[joebruin77]

I exclusively use Optimum's products, because everything I've used so far as just worked well and it's not terribly expensive... hard to disagree with that!

I love doing ONR washes. Opti-seal is best applied on a dry, clean surface, but it is possible to wash, clay + wax, and seal in sequence (theragcompany has a video on it). Add a 2nd coat 12+ hours later, but no sooner. Finish with Optimum Car Wax (easy to apply spray wax) and you are good to go. I have their clay towel and it's also excellent. I would not apply Opti-seal every wash, because it's a sealant and it should last several months unless you use something that strips the sealant off - some car wash soaps (particularly the stuff at any business wash place), Optimum Power Clean, are some examples of things that will deteriorate the sealant. If doing proper maintenance washing with ONR, Opti-seal can last 6+ months according to Yvan Lacroix (OPT's training director). Still, every 3-4 months I'd probably strip the paint with Power Clean and start fresh since the products are easy to apply and cheap to do so.

I totally agree with you. Overall I have been very impressed with Optimum products. As we have been discussing here, I love the new Hyper Seal (like Opti Seal on steroids, due to the SiO2 content). The only Optimum product that is not my favorite is Opticlean, which is their waterless wash. It is a very good product, however I don't like the fact that since the solution is white in color it is hard for me to see the fill line when mixing the concentrate solution in my favorite spray bottle, which happens to be white also. In addition, I believe the dilution ratio is 4:1 so you don't get that many washes out of a single bottle. My new go to waterless wash is Mckee's 37 Waterless Wash On The Go. It is an orange color so it is super easy to see the fill line when adding water in the spray bottle. And the dilution ratio is 16:1, so it is more cost effective. I also personally like the scent a bit better than Opticlean as well.

 

[Nitemare3219]

I totally agree with you. Overall I have been very impressed with Optimum products. As we have been discussing here, I love the new Hyper Seal (like Opti Seal on steroids, due to the SiO2 content). The only Optimum product that is not my favorite is Opticlean, which is their waterless wash. It is a very good product, however I don't like the fact that since the solution is white in color it is hard for me to see the fill line when mixing the concentrate solution in my favorite spray bottle, which happens to be white also. In addition, I believe the dilution ratio is 4:1 so you don't get that many washes out of a single bottle. My new go to waterless wash is Mckee's 37 Waterless Wash On The Go. It is an orange color so it is super easy to see the fill line when adding water in the spray bottle. And the dilution ratio is 16:1, so it is more cost effective. I also personally like the scent a bit better than Opticlean as well.

I have a 32oz bottle of Opticlean, but it hasn't gotten much use yet. I don't do waterless washes. I just use it as a quick detail spray at the wash dilution ratio. If I need to wash, I'll always use ONR as it's safer than Opticlean, and I can do an ONR wash using only half a gallon of water if I want to (Garry Dean microfiber towel method).

 

[joebruin77]

I have a 32oz bottle of Opticlean, but it hasn't gotten much use yet. I don't do waterless washes. I just use it as a quick detail spray at the wash dilution ratio. If I need to wash, I'll always use ONR as it's safer than Opticlean, and I can do an ONR wash using only half a gallon of water if I want to (Garry Dean microfiber towel method).

Yep, ONR is a great way to wash your car. I will do a rinseless ONR wash if the car is on the dirtier side. Of course, if it is super dirty, I'll do a traditional wash with a foam gun. But where I live we need to keep the water use to a minimum. For me, as long as the car is not too dirty, I like the speed of a waterless wash. With ONR, you have to drag out a pale and grit guard and then clean the equipment after the wash, which takes a bit more time and a bit more water. With a waterless wash, all you need is your spray bottle and plush microfiber towels. I did a full PPF on my Model 3, so I am not too concerned about the risk of scratches.

 

[Bill Foster]

I exclusively use Optimum's products, because everything I've used so far as just worked well and it's not terribly expensive... hard to disagree with that!

I love doing ONR washes. Opti-seal is best applied on a dry, clean surface, but it is possible to wash, clay + wax, and seal in sequence (theragcompany has a video on it). Add a 2nd coat 12+ hours later, but no sooner. Finish with Optimum Car Wax (easy to apply spray wax) and you are good to go. I have their clay towel and it's also excellent. I would not apply Opti-seal every wash, because it's a sealant and it should last several months unless you use something that strips the sealant off - some car wash soaps (particularly the stuff at any business wash place), Optimum Power Clean, are some examples of things that will deteriorate the sealant. If doing proper maintenance washing with ONR, Opti-seal can last 6+ months according to Yvan Lacroix (OPT's training director). Still, every 3-4 months I'd probably strip the paint with Power Clean and start fresh since the products are easy to apply and cheap to do so.

I use Opti seal ( or hyper seal) every wash, and never strip it down. I’ve done this on multiple cars for at least 2-3 years without any issue at all. I use it as a drying aid.

Also spraying wax over it seems excessive but Opti seal doesn’t give that smooth just waxed feeling that wax does

 

[Daniellane]

This may be a silly question, but I can't seem to find any definitive answers. I love Optimum no rinse wash & shine, but would like to also apply a ceramic wax like the Meguiar's Hybrid ceramic wax or the Car Guys hybrid wax sealant after I use it.

Is this bad for the car/paint?

I have both PPF & Ceramic on our Model S & our Model 3 and have transitioned away from ONR and with several tips from the PPF installer and my own personal experience I’ve evolved to what I believe is the ultimate setup!
Detailed Video here:
Tesla Ultimate Car Wash !!!

 

[Nitemare3219]

I have both PPF & Ceramic on our Model S & our Model 3 and have transitioned away from ONR and with several tips from the PPF installer and my own personal experience I’ve evolved to what I believe is the ultimate setup!
Detailed Video here:
Tesla Ultimate Car Wash !!!

Not a fan. Why would you go away from ONR back to the hassle of soap and a pressure washer? Big waste of time and water. Also, are you not using 2 buckets with a grit guard in each to clean your wash mitt after each panel? If not, you're slowly going to damage the surface (be it ceramic, PPF, etc). You need to keep your wash media clean. And soap only lubricates the surface as long as soap is actually present and wet... most of your foam had fallen off the car by the time you tried washing the entire car, and soap in sunlight is a horrible idea (it dries and loses its lubrication properties), hence another benefit of ONR (can easily wash in your garage). You'd be much better off using an IK Foam sprayer with your soap and going at each panel one by one.

 

[Daniellane]

Not a fan. Why would you go away from ONR back to the hassle of soap and a pressure washer? Big waste of time and water. Also, are you not using 2 buckets with a grit guard in each to clean your wash mitt after each panel? If not, you're slowly going to damage the surface (be it ceramic, PPF, etc). You need to keep your wash media clean. And soap only lubricates the surface as long as soap is actually present and wet... most of your foam had fallen off the car by the time you tried washing the entire car, and soap in sunlight is a horrible idea (it dries and loses its lubrication properties), hence another benefit of ONR (can easily wash in your garage). You'd be much better off using an IK Foam sprayer with your soap and going at each panel one by one.

First of all, proof is in the putting, after 14 months, our cars look Showroom new with Zero swirl marks. I cannot say the same for my first Tesla which I used only ONR on. If you insist on using ONR, DO NOT USE A 2 BUCKET GRItT GUARD METHOD.
It only moderhately reduces cross contamination. Use one bucket with more microfiber towels than you will need & never reuse a single towel.
All the semi-dry & dry wiping is a swirl maker over time.

 

[joebruin77]

In my experience, doing a rinseless wash with ONR does not induce scratches unless it is used on an extremely dirty car that should only be cleaned with a tradional car wash using lots of water and soap. For a lightly dirty car, from my experience, ONR is safe and does not induce scratches.

However, a huge factor is how you dry the car and what you dry it with. I have considered using an air blower as it would mean no actual touching of the paint. However, I would be concerned that over time, after multiple washes and blasts of air, certain components of the car would suffer some wear and tear, such as some delicate sensors. Also, I would imagine that using an air blower would not only dry the car but is likely to cause dust from the ground below the car to be thrown into the air, raining dust down on your freshly washed car.

So instead I use very plush microfiber towels and a drying aid such as AMMO NYC Hydrate that lets you dry the car using a wet towel. Larry, the founder of AMMO NYC, has videos on youtube that are very informative on this subject.

One last factor to keep in mind is that microfiber towels do require some special handling to avoid inducing scratches with them. You should NEVER use fabric softener when washing microfiber towels and you should never dry them on a heat setting above "ultra low" in the dryer. And once the towels start to feel like they are losing their softness, I throw them away and buy new ones.

 

[Daniellane]

In my experience, doing a rinseless wash with ONR does not induce scratches unless it is used on an extremely dirty car that should only be cleaned with a tradional car wash using lots of water and soap. For a lightly dirty car, from my experience, ONR is safe and does not induce scratches.

However, a huge factor is how you dry the car and what you dry it with. I have considered using an air blower as it would mean no actual touching of the paint. However, I would be concerned that over time, after multiple washes and blasts of air, certain components of the car would suffer some wear and tear, such as some delicate sensors. Also, I would imagine that using an air blower would not only dry the car but is likely to cause dust from the ground below the car to be thrown into the air, raining dust down on your freshly washed car.

So instead I use very plush microfiber towels and a drying aid such as AMMO NYC Hydrate that lets you dry the car using a wet towel. Larry, the founder of AMMO NYC, has videos on youtube that are very informative on this subject.

One last factor to keep in mind is that microfiber towels do require some special handling to avoid inducing scratches with them. You should NEVER use fabric softener when washing microfiber towels and you should never dry them on a heat setting above "ultra low" in the dryer. And once the towels start to feel like they are losing their softness, I throw them away and buy new ones.

I agree, I use deionized water and the Master Blaster Revolution Dryer. (See video linked in post # 29) No towel drying anymore ever. It will transform the slightest miss of soil removal into a sand paper. When using a blower, you will occasionally see missed spots (usually in the concave sections above the rocker panels) Because I live in the North West, there are almost always some levels of heavier soil from the roads. Mostly on the rocker panels and at the rear end of the car.

 

[joebruin77]

I agree, I use deionized water and the Master Blaster Revolution Dryer. (See video linked in post # 29) No towel drying anymore ever. It will transform the slightest miss of soil removal into a sand paper. When using a blower, you will occasionally see missed spots (usually in the concave sections above the rocker panels) Because I live in the North West, there are almost always some levels of heavier soil from the roads. Mostly on the rocker panels and at the rear end of the car.

Just curious, your earlier Tesla that had the scratches and swirls, did it have a full PPF like your current car? I would think that the PPF would fully protect the paint from any possible scratches and swirls from towel drying. I remember an Xpel rep said you can even take your fully wrapped PPF car to a regular car wash. Any scratches or swirls will vanish due to the self healing properties of the PPF.

 

[Daniellane]

Just curious, your earlier Tesla that had the scratches and swirls, did it have a full PPF like your current car? I would think that the PPF would fully protect the paint from any possible scratches and swirls from towel drying. I remember an Xpel rep said you can even take your fully wrapped PPF car to a regular car wash. Any scratches or swirls will vanish due to the self healing properties of the PPF.

Regrettably no PPF or Ceramic Coating on my prior Tesla (Red 2017 90D) Just Carnauba.

 

[DasTasla]

Bumping as really good info here. I was going to buy the Car guys hybrid wax - but then stumbled on this thread. I’m using the ONR 2 bucket system to wash my M3. And Tesla Raj had recommended I go with the wax, but wondering if others have feedback on how Hyper Seal has worked out for them?

 

[joebruin77]

Bumping as really good info here. I was going to buy the Car guys hybrid wax - but then stumbled on this thread. I’m using the ONR 2 bucket system to wash my M3. And Tesla Raj had recommended I go with the wax, but wondering if others have feedback on how Hyper Seal has worked out for them?

Thanks for bumping this thread from 2019. I was reviewing it. It is funny how my thinking has changed since I first contributed to this post.

I still think Hyper Seal is a great product, but I no longer use it. There are two main reasons. First, it is pretty expensive ($50 for 16oz) and, second, it has a mild "chemical" smell. Nothing horrible, but there are many more pleasant-smelling products on the market.

Also, I no longer use OptiSeal. It is simply not nearly as durable as other sealants on the market.

If you are looking for a product to be your main paint protection, these are the products I would consider using:

1) For a ceramic-infused spray sealant, I recommend Griot's Garage Ceramic 3-in-1 Wax. You should get at least 5 or 6 months of protection from this product. Other friends of mine like Turtle Wax Hybrid Ceramic Spray Sealant, but I have not personally used this.

2) If you want something more durable than a spray sealant but don't want to apply a full-on ceramic coating, then definitely check out Gyeon's Cancoat Evo. Cancoat Evo is considered a "light" ceramic coating. It is very easy to apply and is very forgiving. Gyeon claims 12 months of protection and it can be applied outdoors. This should outlast any spray sealant.

3) If you want the most protection, then you want to go for an actual ceramic coating such as CQuartz UK 3.0 or Gyeon Pure Evo. If you are new to coatings, Gyeon also makes a coating for beginners called One Evo. It is not quite as durable as Pure Evo, but it is easier to apply and is more forgiving.

If you are looking for a product to maintain your protection between major applications, I would recommend Xtreme Solutions Topper (ceramic-infused spray topper), Technicians Choice Ceramic Detail Spray, Griot's Garage Ceramic Speed Shine, or Gyeon Ceramic Detailer.

 

[UncertainTimes]

If you are lazy like me get a spray on and rinse off sealant.