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Chill vs Standard batt drain?

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Hello,

First off, 2nd day Model 3 owner here, wow am I loving it!

Has anyone really tested the difference when using Chill vs Standard drive modes, for battery drain?
I actually traded in my 2019 Toyota Prius Prime for the Model 3, and when I would lay into the pedal on the Prime
it would just drop % fairly fast rather than taking it slow. (when in 100% EV on the prime)

Yes I know the standard is fun and all, but I'm not a speed kinda guy, I would prefer getting great range, and as weird as it sounds it kinda makes me a bit woozy, like a roller coaster or something, lol.

Thank you all in advance for any tips!
 
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It doesn't do anything you can't do with your foot, so the answer is "not really". But if you drove in both modes with the same exact pedal usage, it would. If you drove it both modes in such a way to accelerate exactly the same way, then no.
Since you're not a robot - you won't drive exactly the same, therefore chill mode saves electricity.
 
Chill mode certainly helps to keep a slower pace. So it helps to save battery.
It takes the same energy to bring the car from 0-60mph in 4 seconds as 12 seconds. So as long you accelerate to the same speed and decelerate at the same rate energy usage will be almost the same.

last summer I went to a “test and tune” at the drag strip, drove 100 miles round trip running 65-70 mph, 8 full speed passes on the 1/4 mile and still averaged 275 Wh/mi. In the summer I floor it up to the speed limit almost any time I’m first at a traffic light and average ~260 Wh/mi over the summer.
 
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It takes the same energy to bring the car from 0-60mph in 4 seconds as 12 seconds. So as long you accelerate to the same speed and decelerate at the same rate energy usage will be almost the same.

last summer I went to a “test and tune” at the drag strip, drove 100 miles round trip running 65-70 mph, 8 full speed passes on the 1/4 mile and still averaged 275 Wh/mi. In the summer I floor it up to the speed limit almost any time I’m first at a traffic light and average ~260 Wh/mi over the summer.
This is theory that doesn't take into account few things:
1. A higher power has higher losses - tires rubber with more applied force spends more energy on heating itself, electrical resistance wastes higher % of energy with higher current.
2. If you accelerate faster you travel more at higher speed on the same distance, so your energy loss due to the air resistance also increases.
3. Again, since you're not a robot - with higher power you're going to have higher top speed and waste more energy. That's just a reality of practice.
 
It takes the same energy to bring the car from 0-60mph in 4 seconds as 12 seconds. So as long you accelerate to the same speed and decelerate at the same rate energy usage will be almost the same.

last summer I went to a “test and tune” at the drag strip, drove 100 miles round trip running 65-70 mph, 8 full speed passes on the 1/4 mile and still averaged 275 Wh/mi. In the summer I floor it up to the speed limit almost any time I’m first at a traffic light and average ~260 Wh/mi over the summer.
So at same speeds it’s the same. But the instant acceleration will drain more if basic town driving, unlike highway steady speeds. Correct?
 
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I used chill mode the first time this week. We had a surprise March snowfall. Otherwise I never use it. Car is too fun to hamper the performance. Coulda saved a lot of dough and bought a Leaf if that’s what I wanted!
Nissan, ewwwwweeeee! No way! Now if Lexus made a 200+ range Ev then maybe. But no way can we compare a M3 to a leaf. I’m not a speed guy, I like the challenge of getting the best range. My prime use to give me a score after every drive, it was so fun.
 
I owned a LEAF first before my Model 3, soon found I didn't need a foot nanny to modulate my acceleration.
Now I just use regular mode and get better watts per mile with my Model 3 than I did with my LEAF.
Of course it also means that some drives I'm getting >400wpm :)
 
Yep with no transmission and efficient drivetrain with an EV it’s pretty close to the same.

Going to 60 in 3 seconds vs 12 seconds absolutely takes more power. What others are saying is that if you use the same controlled and light acceleration (not accelerating beyond chill mode's limits) it would use the same power to get to the same speed. Chill mode isn't an efficiency mode, it just limits the max power you're able to use through the pedal - nothing more than what you can already control with your foot.
 
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Going to 60 in 3 seconds vs 12 seconds absolutely takes more power. What others are saying is that if you use the same controlled and light acceleration (not accelerating beyond chill mode's limits) it would use the same power to get to the same speed. Chill mode isn't an efficiency mode, it just limits the max power you're able to use through the pedal - nothing more than what you can already control with your foot.
It's also adding more filtering and response delay to make it less reactive. Not just power limit.
 
I’ve honestly have had the exact opposite experience. I’ve been going back and forth between chill and sport and it uses more battery in chill for me at least. I tested it Monday through Friday for the past year going back and forth between works for the week so the driving is pretty much the same and fsd does the driving. I don’t cover a whole lot of distance but on the average day driving the same distance and same route with fsd driving it will used around 10% of the battery in chill mode. Same daily driving in sport it’s about half that. Have no idea why but that’s stayed consistent this entire year.
 
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