DIY Falcon Door Adjustment/Alignment

[Mmodi8045]

Same problem I’m having

 

[domodan]

That will eventually ruin the seal. Remove the lower garnish and then roof cover (inside). Remove 1 10 mm nut near the door and one near the spine and look at the alignment of the bolts of the glass that go through the metal roof frame. The holes are way oversized allowing you to move the glass roof some. If they're centered, then you can move about 3 mm in any direction.

Can you provide more detail on what you outline here? What is the “lower garnish” and what is the “roof cover”?

Thanks for help. Never done this before.

 

[sorka]

Can you provide more detail on what you outline here? What is the “lower garnish” and what is the “roof cover”?

Thanks for help. Never done this before.

More detail in this thread:

My FWD door is stuck open due to a botched DIY adjustment

Was going to attempt a secondary hinge adjustment to improve the alignment today which requires propping the door open with a hoist so that you can disconnect the secondary strut on the secondary hinge. Followed the service manual. Got to the point of disconnecting and removing the secondary...

teslamotorsclub.com

and

Do your FWD seals touch the spine when fully open?

My MXP right FWD pinched the top glass window seal against the spine at the very rear when I first got it. The FWD alignments are pretty good now but the front of the seals of both FWD now pinch the spine when opened. The drivers side FWD pinches because the glass center spine is not level and...

teslamotorsclub.com

 

[PeteZ]

I'm slowly reading through the PDF but it still comes off as slightly intimidating for a first time...and I've done engine swaps and conversions All my panel gaps and alignment are great for the most part but my drivers side FWD is touching the spine glass panel when open and it's making me nervous opening that door in the cold (Seattle's been in the 20's to 30's lately) and I've told the kids to avoid that side since I don't want a hardened/cold gasket breaking that glass.

Has anyone here adjusted for just that only? Adjusting for the Z axis via the primary hinges at the spine on page 13 illustrate what I need to adjust, page 19 has an image with a red arrow that shows my exact issue and pages 51-54; accessing it is with removing as little as possible is what I'm curious about before I take apart more than needed AND who's done the adjustment by themself.

I have the same issue with my 2020 X. I have taken it in Tesla twice, once for the seal around the glass (they did not want to cover it and eventually replaced both glass panels) they fixed it but did not adjust the doors as I asked. I took in a second time and they tell me it's within spec and same as others in the facility. I am in Puyallup, WA and have been going to the Fife location (recently opened) and am frustrated that they feel that since others Model X's have this issue they feel its ok that the rubber seals are low on one end, high on another and don't even touch the center on the top of the roof. I started reading this thread and looked at the manual and seems like a bigger job than I am comfortable with even though I worked on ICE cars when I was younger. At this point I am thinking of finding a repair shop that will do this for me. Anyone know of a shop in the Tacoma/ Seattle area that works on Tesla's? I may take it into a different service center and see if they will do it since my warranty is good until December. If not, maybe we can connect and try to do them together, LOL.​

 

[m5james]

I have the same issue with my 2020 X. I have taken it in Tesla twice, once for the seal around the glass (they did not want to cover it and eventually replaced both glass panels) they fixed it but did not adjust the doors as I asked. I took in a second time and they tell me it's within spec and same as others in the facility. I am in Puyallup, WA and have been going to the Fife location (recently opened) and am frustrated that they feel that since others Model X's have this issue they feel its ok that the rubber seals are low on one end, high on another and don't even touch the center on the top of the roof. I started reading this thread and looked at the manual and seems like a bigger job than I am comfortable with even though I worked on ICE cars when I was younger. At this point I am thinking of finding a repair shop that will do this for me. Anyone know of a shop in the Tacoma/ Seattle area that works on Tesla's? I may take it into a different service center and see if they will do it since my warranty is good until December. If not, maybe we can connect and try to do them together, LOL.​

I'm very mechanically inclined, I just gotta get off my ass and attempt to do it. I'll be for sure giving it a go once weather is permitting.

 

[PeteZ]

I'm very mechanically inclined, I just gotta get off my ass and attempt to do it. I'll be for sure giving it a go once weather is permitting.

Let me know how it goes. I may try in the spring. Maybe I pay you to do mine once you have experience, LOL.

 

[m5james]

Haha, how convenient ;-)

 

[Ford50]

That will eventually ruin the seal. Remove the lower garnish and then roof cover (inside). Remove 1 10 mm nut near the door and one near the spine and look at the alignment of the bolts of the glass that go through the metal roof frame. The holes are way oversized allowing you to move the glass roof some. If they're centered, then you can move about 3 mm in any direction. If this is not enough, then you must:

1. In addition to the stuff I mentioned above, remove the 3 roof brackets that hold the interior cover on.
2. Remove all 10 nuts holding the glass roof on.
3. Open FWD window and push up from inside to lift the roof carefully. It's only like 5 lbs or less.
4. Prop the door up with an 80" shop hoist.
5. Remove both primary struts (see service manual for all the steps).
6. Manually lower the door.
7. Remove secondary struts while door is outward. The manual sucks on this as does the TN doc. You must remove secondary struts while the door is open outward and re-install the same way.
8. Witness mark primary hinge bolts.
9. Loosen primary hinges on roof.
10. Move door and roof out.
11. Tighten hinges (24 nm)
12. Witness mark secondary hinge bolts.
13. Loosen secondary hinges on roof.
14. Move door only in. i.e. you basically want to move the roof out keeping the door in the same place.
15. Tighten secondary hinges (30 nm).
16. Close door manually by pushing in so latch grabs it.
17. Open door back up. If car goes into calibration mode and won't release latch, use pull cable under speaker cover.
18. When fitment good, re-install secondary struts. Push open on door from inside while popping onto outside ball(after first doing inside ball near spine).
19. Lift door all the way back up manually and prop open. Unfortunately the secondary struts don't compress so the door will be a lot higher the second time you need to prop it back up. See photo in this post My FWD door is stuck open due to a botched DIY adjustment
20. Re-install primary struts.

You could also close the door after removing the secondary struts and leave it closed but you have to get someone to push on on the door on the rear when pushing in on loose hinge because the seals like to push it back out.

For most of this, you can use the service manual. What I really should do is just highlight where the manual is wrong or just missing steps altogether.

Thank you for this

 

[ford50x]

I'm very mechanically inclined, I just gotta get off my ass and attempt to do it. I'll be for sure giving it a go once weather is permitting.

Same - keep us posted on any tips you can offer

 

[oldsport]

how about a utube video? that way no need for service manual esp if u have dyslexia