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First Tesla- why is wall connector charging so slowly?
- Thread starter divemaster
- Start date
Who installed your wall connector? Did they follow the instructions for the dip switches? Maybe they set it to 12amp by mistake.
Page 22
https://www.tesla.com/sites/default...nstallation_manual_80A_en_US.pdf?201612081439
Page 22
https://www.tesla.com/sites/default...nstallation_manual_80A_en_US.pdf?201612081439
ucmndd
Well-Known Member
What @commasign said. Whoever installed your wall connector didn’t set the switches for the appropriate amperage (or maybe they did if you’re using 14ga wire 
). The wall connector is set to a 12a max from the factory.
). The wall connector is set to a 12a max from the factory.
ucmndd
Well-Known Member
If you’re even sorta handy it’s easy enough to change yourself. Just a rotary dial behind some torx screws. Look in your panel to see what size breaker they installed, adjust rotary dial to match.
This isn’t really a big deal after my car got rear-ended literally the first time I parked it today (after it spent week getting PPF on front and ceramic coat). The girl gave me her health insurance card when I asked about insurance...
I wish I were a little handy. My granddad trained all my male cousins but I got left out and my husband tries but not so much...
JPoldo
Member
Divemaster, call your Wall Connector installer for troubleshooting help. Making adjustments yourself can be very dangerous, especially if you are not savvy about electricity. Since not very handy, you probably don't have a torx screw driver. If you want to charge at 48 amps, the breaker should be 60 amps, service line #6 awg wire (or lower number), and dip switches set correctly.
The charger in ms will try to charge at 48 amps but if it sees a large voltage drop due to a bad installation, it will lower charge current to a safe level. Possibly, that 's your issue. Charging is considered continuous use so there's a 20% derating. Therefore, 60A service should only draw 48A. Although extremely handy and an engineer, I still consulted multiple sources before attempting self-install.
The charger in ms will try to charge at 48 amps but if it sees a large voltage drop due to a bad installation, it will lower charge current to a safe level. Possibly, that 's your issue. Charging is considered continuous use so there's a 20% derating. Therefore, 60A service should only draw 48A. Although extremely handy and an engineer, I still consulted multiple sources before attempting self-install.
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I had this same issue when I got my wall charger. The issue was the small rotating dial was never moved from the default setting which is what you are on now. The manual that came with your charger will tell you what to turn the dial to to match your breaker switch’s amperage. Make sure that the breaker switch for the wall charger is off before working with the small rotary dial inside the charger. The wall charger will only see that change after you power it off and on with the breaker switch.
Hate to say it but you (not OP really) need to be sure the installer reads the installation manual if they are not an approved Tesla installer. Then you don’t get this sort of insanity.
The TWC/HPWC is set for the default circuit of 15 amp (at 80%) so it can’t be wrong if nothing is done. Unfortunately this happens all too often.
And the tools needed (Tork bits) come with it, but most installers take them away as nice perks of the job. Anyone handy may have them and be able to do it for you following the manual if it takes a while to get the installer back out.
Best of luck on both issues!
The TWC/HPWC is set for the default circuit of 15 amp (at 80%) so it can’t be wrong if nothing is done. Unfortunately this happens all too often.
And the tools needed (Tork bits) come with it, but most installers take them away as nice perks of the job. Anyone handy may have them and be able to do it for you following the manual if it takes a while to get the installer back out.
Best of luck on both issues!
ucmndd
Well-Known Member
It’s not. The car displays a very clear message when it lowers the amperage. It’s the rotary dial.
Silicon Desert
Well-Known Member
Uh Oh. I guess that explains how she hit your car. She probably mistaken the accelerator for the brake too. Quick, go get a physical checkup on her insurance
Sorry to hear about that problem especially after you just dolled it up nicely.
ucmndd
Well-Known Member
Nothing magic about the “Tesla approved” electricians like many here would have you believe.
Honest mistake, easy fix. Hopefully they’re back out soon to make it right.
This is insane... they are supposed to take photos and send them to Tesla and all that as a QA check, even. Mine did when I had my two HPWCs installed. Dang.
Hard to believe anyone that has installed one before would skip setting the switch. I feel your pain!
JPoldo
Member
Divemaster, the consensus here appears to be that your rotary dip switch was incorrectly set or left in default setting. Please tell us what fixed your problem so others learn. Many of us learn far more about EVs in this forum than all other sources.
The consensus was correct. The electrician came out on Monday and adjusted the dip switches and rotary dial. Charging at 29 miles/hour now.
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