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Ugh. Thanks. Will have to get them out here again.
I wish I were a little handy. My granddad trained all my male cousins but I got left out and my husband tries but not so much...If you’re even sorta handy it’s easy enough to change yourself. Just a rotary dial behind some torx screws. Look in your panel to see what size breaker they installed, adjust rotary dial to match.
I had this same issue when I got my wall charger. The issue was the small rotating dial was never moved from the default setting which is what you are on now. The manual that came with your charger will tell you what to turn the dial to to match your breaker switch’s amperage. Make sure that the breaker switch for the wall charger is off before working with the small rotary dial inside the charger. The wall charger will only see that change after you power it off and on with the breaker switch.Divemaster, call your Wall Connector installer for troubleshooting help. Making adjustments yourself can be very dangerous, especially if you are not savvy about electricity. Since not very handy, you probably don't have a torx screw driver. If you want to charge at 48 amps, the breaker should be 60 amps, service line #6 awg wire (or lower number), and dip switches set correctly.
The charger in ms will try to charge at 48 amps but if it sees a large voltage drop due to a bad installation, it will lower charge current to a safe level. Possibly, that 's your issue. Charging is considered continuous use so there's a 20% derating. Therefore, 60A service should only draw 48A. Although extremely handy and an engineer, I still consulted multiple sources before attempting self-install.
The charger in ms will try to charge at 48 amps but if it sees a large voltage drop due to a bad installation, it will lower charge current to a safe level. Possibly, that 's your issue.
Uh Oh. I guess that explains how she hit your car. She probably mistaken the accelerator for the brake too. Quick, go get a physical checkup on her insuranceThe girl gave me her health insurance card when I asked about insurance...
I actually went with a Tesla-approved company...Hate to say it but you (not OP really) need to be sure the installer reads the installation manual if they are not an approved Tesla installer. Then you don’t get this sort of insanity.
The TWC/HPWC is set for the default circuit of 15 amp (at 80%) so it can’t be wrong if nothing is done. Unfortunately this happens all too often.
And the tools needed (Tork bits) come with it, but most installers take them away as nice perks of the job. Anyone handy may have them and be able to do it for you following the manual if it takes a while to get the installer back out.
Best of luck on both issues!
I actually went with a Tesla-approved company...
This is insane... they are supposed to take photos and send them to Tesla and all that as a QA check, even. Mine did when I had my two HPWCs installed. Dang.I actually went with a Tesla-approved company...
I actually went with a Tesla-approved company...
The consensus was correct. The electrician came out on Monday and adjusted the dip switches and rotary dial. Charging at 29 miles/hour now.Divemaster, the consensus here appears to be that your rotary dip switch was incorrectly set or left in default setting. Please tell us what fixed your problem so others learn. Many of us learn far more about EVs in this forum than all other sources.