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Was watching a Munro live discussion on tv and saw this pop up. Interesting. Shows that old car companies can’t break away from stealing from their old parts bins :). Interesting discussion so far. Munro And 3IS Compare Tesla, Ford & VW Electrical Architectures
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Its good that you mentioned that, because I was just about to move the thread to the model Y forum since the screenshot says model y.
Yep. Thought of you guys the second I hit post then spent a while trying to figure out how to edit my post :). Brings to mind though. Is there a way to create a link in one forum that points to a discussion in another forum such that both forums can post to it? Yes, I’m an old Unix developer at heart :). Just curious.
 
Most of us moderators (including me) are volunteers thus only have access to the gui interface stuff. That being said, there are a couple different ways in the GUI for us to move stuff around. One of them is for us to move it, but leave a re direct in the original location for an amount of time we set.

That basically leaves the thread visible in its original location, but when someone clicks on it, it takes them automatically to the location where the mod moved the post to. If I (for example) moved this thread to the model Y section but left a 3 day re direct, then it would, in effect, be visible in both forums, but when someone clicked on it in the model 3 forum it would automatically take them to the model Y forum.

Whether we use a re direct when we move stuff around depends on what it is, how many posts / how active it is, etc. A thread in the "wrong" area with only a couple of posts on it, I usually move. Same thread with a page and half of posts, I would generally leave a redirect so that people who were used to finding it in one place would find it, at least for a few days.

There isnt any way for a regular (non moderator) member to re direct it or make a post appear like that, at least not that I am aware of.

One more note, on the thread content itself. I dont personally watch a lot of online videos (thats not my thing) but a lot of people do. I am aware of who sandy munro is, and think that there might be some members who might enjoy a link to the actual discussion if its a recorded webcast or something, as well as the screenshot.

If you have a link to the video discussion and want to include it in the first post, PM it to me and I will put it in there for you.
 
But back to the OP. This is a marvelous example; trying to access the fuses in my Miata involves unbolting the top fuse tray to get to the secondary fuse tray underneath it. Just what I want to do on the road in the dark when something blows.
 
It looks like no matter what VW and Ford promised and advertised, they have NOT developed ID.3/4 and Mach-E from scratch. I think this is a very big issue that will haunt the legacy OEMs for a long time until they disappear or truely change.
 
It looks like no matter what VW and Ford promised and advertised, they have NOT developed ID.3/4 and Mach-E from scratch. I think this is a very big issue that will haunt the legacy OEMs for a long time until they disappear or truely change.

Going a little overboard there. Remember that the Model 3 has a lot of parts from other cars. The stalks were lifted from the Mercedes parts bin.

The decision to use traditional removable fuses versus PPTC's is not as big a deal as you are making it. Their both still fuses at the end of the day, so that chart is misleading. But when one of your PPTC fails over time, and they can and do fail, you're going to wish you could pick up a new fuse for a few pennies at the local parts store and replace it yourself.
 
Going a little overboard there. Remember that the Model 3 has a lot of parts from other cars. The stalks were lifted from the Mercedes parts bin.

The decision to use traditional removable fuses versus PPTC's is not as big a deal as you are making it. Their both still fuses at the end of the day, so that chart is misleading. But when one of your PPTC fails over time, and they can and do fail, you're going to wish you could pick up a new fuse for a few pennies at the local parts store and replace it yourself.
Most failure modes I’ve seen with PPTCs are only after 1000s or much higher counts of resettable blows...implying something they are associated with are likely toast as well...and since they are typically at the location of what they are monitoring they usually would get replaced along with the failing unit...if I recall, most early battery packs at Tesla even had a PPTC for every one of the 6000 or so batteries so guessing they understood the failure modes well. After owning a Jaguar xk8 with 7+ fuse boxes all jam packed with fuses and relays scattered all over the car...then following that with a BMW X5 and a BMW M3 which ate fuses like candy and when relays failed it often took 5 trips to the shop to fix the problem. Even our Tahoe needs a good kick in the dash occassionally to get the AC fan relay working again (literally...just to left of the glove box).
 
Most failure modes I’ve seen with PPTCs are only after 1000s or much higher counts of resettable blows...implying something they are associated with are likely toast as well...and since they are typically at the location of what they are monitoring they usually would get replaced along with the failing unit...if I recall, most early battery packs at Tesla even had a PPTC for every one of the 6000 or so batteries so guessing they understood the failure modes well. After owning a Jaguar xk8 with 7+ fuse boxes all jam packed with fuses and relays scattered all over the car...then following that with a BMW X5 and a BMW M3 which ate fuses like candy and when relays failed it often took 5 trips to the shop to fix the problem. Even our Tahoe needs a good kick in the dash occassionally to get the AC fan relay working again (literally...just to left of the glove box).
Wow, you’re bad luck. I have had tons of cars of all kinds and never had any of those fuse or relay problems.
 
The only time I've had a fuse problem was on my Chrysler and that wasn't the fault of the car. I had a 12V tire pump that drew more current then the car could deliver, after blow the fuse a couple of times I bought one that used AC. However that one had a tendency to trip my GFCI so I replaced that with one that has a lithium battery. When fuses blow there is a reason.
 
Wow, you’re bad luck. I have had tons of cars of all kinds and never had any of those fuse or relay problems.
Jaguar xk8...biggest problem besides fuses blowing was false sensor errors that hid the blown fuses from diagnostics...that and every time the first response from Jaguar was that they wanted to replace the main $8,000 ecu each time. I eventually traded it in on a BMW X5. 4 water pumps later, numerous fuse issues, one temperature sensitive relay that prevented the car from starting, several internal relays that put the X5 in limp mode, one dragonfly wing in an egr valve that killed the engine randomly but diagnosed as blown fuses and an internal failed relay, a plugged roof drain that allowed gallons of water into the car via a totally closed sunroof shorting out electronics and not helping the fuse situation, a dealership that put 5 gallons of windshield washer fluid into the vehicle before they wondered where it all was going (floor of vehicle as the pipe to rear wiper burst), and after many many other engine check light conditions I traded the X5 in on the Tesla. M3 was basically relay hell...several temperature sensitive, one I did a little research and solved by replacing a capacitor. Still have the M3...it’s a nice car even with an inch thick stack of repair history. Jaguar was nice when it wasn’t in the shop or in limp mode 700 miles from home.