How is passing performance

[dfwatt]

IMO, the straight line acceleration in my 3P+ is fantastic up to around 80 mph, then it's just ordinary. My old 1991 300ZX-TT would power on to 120 or so. Those speeds are so rare that it's basically a party trick. The 0-60 range, hell, I use it all the time and there is no comparison to anything other than a Performance S (which is jarring at launch).

One thing, and I don't know if I'm just getting old or what, is that I don't feel as confident on twisty roads in my 3 compared to the old Z. Back in the 90s I drove my Z up in the mountains of north GA and had a blast. The section of US19 from US129 to Vogel State park, in particular. Very twisty and the road is significantly banked into the curves. Did the same last weekend in my 3P+. Now, I was in a pack of around five vehicles (two pickups!, a motorcycle, and some sort of BMW 3), so the spacing and lane discipline was a concern. Anyway, the BMW came up on me aggressively early on so I decided to test out my 3. The BMW would kill me in the curves. I can't put my finger on it but entering a curve in the 3 doesn't seem as solid as my old Z. It feels like the front is "light" and will break free on entry. It didn't matter in the end because I killed them on the short straight segments and exited the pack well ahead of the BMW. My wife was with me and said we averaged around 50 mph (obviously, slower in the hairpins but fast in the straights).

Get the MPP sport coilovers. Crank the shocks up a couple of notches. You'll torch the BMW.

 

[Dolemite]

Also the OEM alignment specs on the Model 3 are pretty tame, from what I understand. Getting MPP arms & dialing in the camber probably has a major impact.

 

[G4Z808]

Also the OEM alignment specs on the Model 3 are pretty tame, from what I understand. Getting MPP arms & dialing in the camber probably has a major impact.

+1 a performance alignment can make a world of difference for cornering feel

 

[nealh]

+1 a performance alignment can make a world of difference for cornering feel

pardon my ignorance but you can go to an auto shop and have this done??

 

[G4Z808]

pardon my ignorance but you can go to an auto shop and have this done??

My P3D+ is still pending a VIN. But from what I gathered from this forum, the stock alignment range is extremely limited. Aftermarket arms from MPP would really be required to dial in a good performance alignment

You would then also need to find an alignment shop that is willing to set the specs to what you want instead of what the computer tells them to set it to

 

[nealh]

My P3D+ is still pending a VIN. But from what I gathered from this forum, the stock alignment range is extremely limited. Aftermarket arms from MPP would really be required to dial in a good performance alignment

You would then also need to find an alignment shop that is willing to set the specs to what you want instead of what the computer tells them to set it to

thank you

 

[dfwatt]

pardon my ignorance but you can go to an auto shop and have this done??

The stock suspension on the Model 3 only allows toe-in front and rear adjustment. No camber F or R, no front caster, and only way to fix this is: 1) rear camber arms, 2) front upper control wishbone that is adjustable. Both of these parts are available from MPP, but other sources available too such as Redwood. Stock front and rear camber is also not negative enough even for best street performance, let alone for tracking where ~3 degree negative front is optimal/necessary, with something like 2.5 negative rear. Best solution IMO is 1) MPP Sport soilovers, which allow for ride height adjustment and significant lowering; 2) rear camber arms (also from MPP); 3) front U control arm if tracking, less essential if not, as just lowering alone will get you to -1 degree front, which is good enough for street.

 

[nealh]

The stock suspension on the Model 3 only allows toe-in front and rear adjustment. No camber F or R, no front caster, and only way to fix this is: 1) rear camber arms, 2) front upper control wishbone that is adjustable. Both of these parts are available from MPP, but other sources available too such as Redwood. Stock front and rear camber is also not negative enough even for best street performance, let alone for tracking where ~3 degree negative front is optimal/necessary, with something like 2.5 negative rear. Best solution IMO is 1) MPP Sport soilovers, which allow for ride height adjustment and significant lowering; 2) rear camber arms (also from MPP); 3) front U control arm if tracking, less essential if not, as just lowering alone will get you to -1 degree front, which is good enough for street.

Thank you for the excellent reply