how much did you pay to install NEMA 14-50 outlet and breaker in GTA?

[coolmanfever]

how much did you pay to install NEMA 14-50 outlet and breaker in GTA? Just trying to gauge what is the average cost for GTA area. Thank you

 

[ColonelRHS]

I found a retired Navy Master Chief Electrician and a retired local utility lineman. Bought the separate box, the fuze, and the additional line needed, as well as the Clipper Creek charger. Bought them dinner, paid each $100, and they did a fantastic job in under 3 hours. That was almost a year ago. Electrician wanted from $500 to $800 just for the labor.

The big problem I had was to install a 240 box because I had no free 240 line to handle the charger. I personally have no talent for electrical work. These guys went from the incoming meter and line to put me in another. So this line stands alone in the garage and no problem of overload. Now, where can you find talent like this? Suggest you contact a local VFW or American Legion Post and put the word out that you are looking for some retired electricians.

 

[Webeevdrivers]

In Vernon B C we paid 350 bucks. But it was only a 7 foot ish run thru the garage wall from the box in the laundry room. After that we used a 25 foot RV extension cord and vented conduit that we installed ourselves to the EVSE.

You can see the 14-50 at the far end of the garage. The RV 50 amp ext cord goes into the ented conduit and then comes down to the EVSE. 4 years no problems.

 

[Someguym3]

$1300 all in for the beaker, outlet and wire from the basement to the garage. Probably about 80ft

 

[Techniques]

$900 all in for outlet, 50amp breaker and 15 foot run to garage from basement.

 

[Casmium]

Parts with a 90cm run were about $33 and I think the inspection was around $100

 

[EVDRVN]

In Vernon B C we paid 350 bucks. But it was only a 7 foot ish run thru the garage wall from the box in the laundry room. After that we used a 25 foot RV extension cord and vented conduit that we installed ourselves to the EVSE.



You can see the 14-50 at the far end of the garage. The RV 50 amp ext cord goes into the ented conduit and then comes down to the EVSE. 4 years no problems.

That would not pass code in almost any place in the US, you have exposed cord, an outlet that is too low and other issues. The proper way to do this would have been a junction box on top of the old outlet with conduit to a surface mount box outlet at the proper height of the EVSE. Also the EVSE cord looks out of code as well. The cord curve on the lower level is really not good and that outlet is incredibly low. I see many blaring potential failure points as well as future potential issues that car result from undetected strain. No offense but you have basically tacked an extension cord to the wall in the worst possible routing for safety and did every possible thing you should not do, no one should do this. Your garage looks like it is immaculate in every way and you took great care to organize it well but you should have hired a qualified electrician to do the work. It would have been VERY easy to have done this properly.

 

[coolmanfever]

$900 all in for outlet, 50amp breaker and 15 foot run to garage from basement.

thank you. I am around your area in GTA. Do you mind sharing contact info of who you use?

 

[Webeevdrivers]

That would not pass code in almost any place in the US, you have exposed cord, an outlet that is too low and other issues. The proper way to do this would have been a junction box on top of the old outlet with conduit to a surface mount box outlet at the proper height of the EVSE. Also the EVSE cord looks out of code as well. The cord curve on the lower level is really not good and that outlet is incredibly low. I see many blaring potential failure points as well as future potential issues that car result from undetected strain. No offense but you have basically tacked an extension cord to the wall in the worst possible routing for safety and did every possible thing you should not do, no one should do this. Your garage looks like it is immaculate in every way and you took great care to organize it well but you should have hired a qualified electrician to do the work. It would have been VERY easy to have done this properly.

I appreciate your comments. The only outlet is a foot from the cieling. It was installed by an electrician to code. I asked the contractor the proper way to support an extension cord and he said the safe way was to Install it in vented conduit. The extension cord is an RV 50 amp cord supported by vented conduit. An appliance (the EVSE) is connected to the end of a 25 foot properly sized cord that is not laying on the ground and is not repeatedly plugged and unplugged. The EVSE (Juice Box) cord is stock and ULC. Having said that it looks like we will be replacing the Juice Box with a TESLA UMC.

By using the extension cord and vented conduit we can change the location of the EVSE with greater eaze. This will happen when our model 3 arrives as it charges on the opposite side of the car as my wife’s current EV. I took steps to make sure this was done correctly and safely.

But I get it. There are different electrical codes for different countries.

Cheers.

 

[EVDRVN]

I appreciate your comments. The only outlet is a foot from the cieling. It was installed by an electrician to code. I asked the contractor the proper way to support an extension cord and he said the safe way was to Install it in vented conduit. The extension cord is an RV 50 amp cord supported by vented conduit. An appliance (the EVSE) is connected to the end of a 25 foot properly sized cord that is not laying on the ground and is not repeatedly plugged and unplugged. The EVSE (Juice Box) cord is stock and ULC. Having said that it looks like we will be replacing the Juice Box with a TESLA UMC.

By using the extension cord and vented conduit we can change the location of the EVSE with greater eaze. This will happen when our model 3 arrives as it charges on the opposite side of the car as my wife’s current EV. I took steps to make sure this was done correctly and safely.

But I get it. There are different electrical codes for different countries.

Cheers.

It's not safe, you should never run a bare cord like that. Look at your other properly installed outlet. The upper outlet is not the issue it's the low one. You have a bulky low plug sticking out and a cord that can become severed or hung up on. The vented plastic is not the issue it's the location of the outlet, the mounting and the exposed curves. I will bet that would fail any inspection particularly in a garage. I've see every kind of failure in setups like this so if you choose to do this in your home then it's you choice but I do not recommend you posting this as a suggestion to others. You EASILY could have run a safe conduit to a box. I see this and other installations like this all the time that end up having some unintended issue. I also wonder how your upper outlet is connected in the other room as it seems you have multiple junction points but I could be wrong. Enough said.

 

[Webeevdrivers]

It's not safe, you should never run a bare cord like that. Look at your other properly installed outlet. The upper outlet is not the issue it's the low one. You have a bulky low plug sticking out and a cord that can become severed or hung up on. The vented plastic is not the issue it's the location of the outlet, the mounting and the exposed curves. I will bet that would fail any inspection particularly in a garage. I've see every kind of failure in setups like this so if you choose to do this in your home then it's you choice but I do not recommend you posting this as a suggestion to others. You EASILY could have run a safe conduit to a box. I see this and other installations like this all the time that end up having some unintended issue. I also wonder how your upper outlet is connected in the other room as it seems you have multiple junction points but I could be wrong. Enough said.

I assume when you say bare cord you mean the RV 50 amp extension cord. Is there such a thing as a not bare extension cord? This is an indoor outdoor 25 foot 240 volt, 50 amp cord with UV rating. Commonly used to plug in 50 amp 240 volt RV’s. They are available in 15 25 and 50 foot lengths. The only criteria the electrician gave us when we asked him about the install was that it needed to be vented conduit so it doesn’t trap heat. Otherwise we would have had to use cable clamps to clamp it to the wall. Less support and not as neat.

There is no lower outlet. It is the end of a properly sized and rated extension cord.

The electrician installed the upper receptacle thru the walls and to the main panel on its own 50 amp breaker. We did our own drywall repair. What junction points are you talking about. It is a straight shot.

Code might be different here. Inspectors don’t look at appliances or extension cords that are plugged into a receptacle. As well, I’m not sure I have ever heard that an extension cord can’t have a curve in it.

 

[Victoria3]

I can tell you it takes only about 1 hr labour for a short simple run. Give them 1 hr travel time on each side, anything over 300 for labour is unreasonable.

 

[Tessaract]

Neat installation. Looks very tidy. And I'm sure it actually works pretty well. Now for the bad news: I doubt it would pass a code inspection. A few of the reasons I suspect are: not code compliant to use any extension cord in a permanent installation, not code compliant to use an electrical cord longer than ~ 24 inches from an EVSE to a receptacle, and I doubt it's code compliant to encase an extension cord in conduit (although the square channels may not meet the definition of conduit).

Now that I've read more comments, I realize others have posted similar comments. But to answer your question on "how should I have done it", my suggestion would be to replace your top 14-50 receptacle with a junction box or 60 A disconnect switch (Lowes, HD, ...) and run a TECK cable to your EVSE. TECK is armoured (so there are no concerns with damage to the cable) and water tight, commonly available (even if the TECK connectors are a little pricey) at electrical supply stores, and most important: it's code compliant for exposed locations like on the wall surface.

 

[Kabillyhop]

Cost is totally dependent on your situation. Does your box have capacity, how long is the run, what walls (interior, exterior) does it have to go through, etc. An average price doesn't mean much. I paid a flat $1000 including materials to a licensed Ontario contractor to install Tesla charger. They did a nice job and I can sleep at night.

 

[Webeevdrivers]

Neat installation. Looks very tidy. And I'm sure it actually works pretty well. Now for the bad news: I doubt it would pass a code inspection. A few of the reasons I suspect are: not code compliant to use any extension cord in a permanent installation, not code compliant to use an electrical cord longer than ~ 24 inches from an EVSE to a receptacle, and I doubt it's code compliant to encase an extension cord in conduit (although the square channels may not meet the definition of conduit).

Now that I've read more comments, I realize others have posted similar comments. But to answer your question on "how should I have done it", my suggestion would be to replace your top 14-50 receptacle with a junction box or 60 A disconnect switch (Lowes, HD, ...) and run a TECK cable to your EVSE. TECK is armoured (so there are no concerns with damage to the cable) and water tight, commonly available (even if the TECK connectors are a little pricey) at electrical supply stores, and most important: it's code compliant for exposed locations like on the wall surface.

Thank you for your comments. Code May be different here as this is how the electrician suggested it be done for a non permanent setup. The extension cord can be removed from the vented conduit in 20 seconds. It simply opens up. Cord comes right out. It’s essentially just a support and keeps it tidy. The whole thing can be shifted to the other side of the room in 5 minutes. The length of the EVSE cord came that way from the US on a ULC rated product. At some point (after the wife’s model 3 arrives) we will probably move everything to the other side of the room from the receptacle. When we do that we may do a permanent installation. In the meantime the extension cord is well protected and out of the way. Heck, RVers normally drape our cords through snow, lawn and bush. . This one is well protected and out of the way. Using a properly rated extension cord can provide versatility and convenience for EVSE users.

But yah. From what I gather from comments here extension cord use is actually quite regulated in some places. Apparently they even have to be kept straight with no curves. Nothing like that here.

 

[Tessaract]

Thank you for your comments. Code May be different here as this is how the electrician suggested it be done for a non permanent setup. The extension cord can be removed from the vented conduit in 20 seconds. It simply opens up. The whole thing can be shifted to the other side of the room in 5 minutes. The length of the EVSE cord came that way from the US on a ULC rated product. At some point (after the wife’s model 3 arrives) we will probably move everything to the other side of the room from the receptacle. When we do that we may do a permanent installation. In the meantime the extension cord is well protected and out of the way. Heck, RVers normally drape our cords through snow, lawn and bush. . This one is well protected and out of the way. Using a properly rated extension cord can provide versatility and convenience for EVSE users.

But yah. From what I gather from comments here extension cord use is actually quite regulated in some places. Apparently they even have to be kept straight with no curves. Nothing like that here.

I pretty sure conduit or cords don't need to be kept straight. And your extension cord is somewhat "out of the way" for much of it's run. But wires/cables in a conduit do need to protected everywhere along the run, including in corners, and especially where humans and their machines (e.g. lawnmowers) can contact them. I myself have a RV extension cord for use with my M3 when car camping. The reason that the electrical code (and therefore your insurance company as well) regards permanent installation in a garage differently is because the cable is in contact with a dwelling and can therefore become a fire hazard under adverse conditions. Burning a bush in the wilderness is one thing (and really deadly in Australia), but burning your house is a completely different level of serious.