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How to uninstall v.10/get an update. (Lost all mobile connectivity.)

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ZoomsansVroom

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May 3, 2019
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I did a search, and couldn't find out how to revert to my earlier, bug-free, software - well, except blind spot detection not working, but that hasn't worked since May.

I have lost all mobile connectivity, since updating, and I've rebooted twice.

I have 32.11.1
 
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First you hack the OS so that it will run unsigned code. Then you obtain the previous firmware and spoof the version to something higher than what is installed so that it passes the OS's version check. Then you introduce the update through the hacked method that you developed and voila, firmware downgrade. Then you call up Elon and tell him how you managed this hack and he'll probably reward you handsomely. Or he'll just cut your car off from all official Tesla support. I guess it depends on what kind of mood he's in.
 
First you hack the OS so that it will run unsigned code. Then you obtain the previous firmware and spoof the version to something higher than what is installed so that it passes the OS's version check. Then you introduce the update through the hacked method that you developed and voila, firmware downgrade. Then you call up Elon and tell him how you managed this hack and he'll probably reward you handsomely. Or he'll just cut your car off from all official Tesla support. I guess it depends on what kind of mood he's in.
Yes, you can (try to) Jailbreak your Tesla, or just send a request to the Service Center for getting a previous version?

I have lost all mobile connectivity, since updating, and I've rebooted twice.

I just get 32.11.1 and didn't find anything wrong, but didn't really look at in details to check any improvment or regression regarding EAP or Summon..

About connectivity, I didn't find anything wrong. Do you mean getting Map or Web access, or Smartphone App control?

I would just say that I don't have problem to lock or unlock the car with the Bluetooth proximity,
however the phone 'Connect' is not something always working, from release to release,
so I don't rely on it for making or receiving calls, but when working it is very nice feature unless you have passengers.

Note: There is a new app (3.10) providing remote window control which is very useful
and provides a great way to know if any window is open as you get a [Close] icon,
or a [Vent] indicating that all thewindows are closed allowing to then to crack all of them.

Otherwise, do you have Karaoke working? It's a simple feature but a great ice-breaker if you have passengers or just change your mood!
 
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I don't think the odds of you getting an official downgrade from Tesla are very good for several reasons:

1. That means they'll have to admit that there's a problem in the current firmware that is so bad it requires this radical step.
2. Usually when confronted with software issues, their official response is "wait until we fix it in a later version."
3. The system may not be set up this way. In the past, when major issues were introduced via update, their response was to quickly push another update. Did they revert the changes in the new version? Maybe, but it was still a higher version number.
4. Another reason why the system is probably not set up this way is that most manufacturers of computers with locked down ecosystems (all major smart phones, home voice assistant devices, big name smart home gadgets, etc) implement a version check (or some more sophisticated anti-downgrading mechanism) as one of their first lines of defense. That way if a hacker finds an exploit, and the company responds by releasing an upgrade that patches said exploit, the hacker can't regain that exploit by simply downgrading to the version that contains the exploit. If the manufacturer provided a legit path to downgrading, that path will become a perfect vector for hackers to do whatever they want with the system. Tesla takes system security very seriously and probably isn't stupid enough to do something like that.
 
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Did you try the hard reset with the brake pedal pushed down?
I might have done that, accidentally. It started working, after a couple days/I left it connected to wifi as much as possible/left my phone in the car, with hotspot. (Cannot connect the car to a hotspot, while its driving, BTW.) By "no connectivity" I meant "no connectivity" - I had to put my phone in, and connect the car to my hotspot to be able to book a service appointment - very odd. No maps, no streaming, no connection to the app, etc.
 
I had that happen when I first picked up the car. But it only lasted for a couple hours and has worked fine since. I assumed it was just setting something up. However I talked to the mobile tech who installed my HomeLink and he said that when the system is taxed it'll disable what it deems unnecessary systems. He said that dropping LTE is usually the first thing it does. He was warning me about a crappy flash drive I had that was causing the "drive too slow" error. He said that can cause the system to go into this state and cut off LTE.

Not sure if that could have been a factor here, but FYI
 
I have the same problem. It started immediately after I installed 32.11.1. I've booked a service appointment but the next available slot isn't until the 4th of November (I'm in Denmark). I have no remote access to the car at all.