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Light bar installation to 2013 Model S

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Hi!

It's getting dark and the Model S lights are not that bright. I already had swapped the original 25W HIDs to "US spec" 35W, but still it didn't feel too good at high beam.

I bought this curved 98W led light bar:
Arctic Bright Curved Slim 98W LED lisävalopaneeli | Karkkainen.com verkkokauppa

Only 89eur at local store, and has EU approval.

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Here's the dimensions.. I'm pretty sure this "Arctic Bright" is some Finnish-only relabel of some cheap China junk, you can probably find the same product with different brand elsewhere.

I wanted the installation to be as "hidden" as possible, so the light bar wouldn't pop out visually when not in use. I thought that it must fit behind the upper grille. I googled around if anyone has done similar setup, and found this thread from the Australia section of this board:

My Light Bar Project

So it is indeed possible!

First I removed the bumper. There's excellent instruction on this forum:
How To: Front Bumper and Headlight Removal

Bumper is very fast to remove, only takes about 15 minutes. Air suspension helps, you can raise it to max high to reach the two screws above wheels in fenders.

kuva1.jpeg


With bumper removed it's obvious the light bar fits really well to the upper air duct! I just pushed it there and it fitted nicely. So there's no need to cut or trim anything.

kuva2.jpeg


I removed the plastic piece so it's easy to drill holes for the mounting brackets.

kuva3.jpeg


Then, I added two extra stainless steel brackets that are riveted to the metal bar inside the bumper. So the light is now attached very securely. There's bolts going through the air duct which are not visible in the photo, sorry. :)

kuva4.jpeg


For the power I figured I just use the power taps inside the nose cone. The light has wiring with relay, so it's safe to connect to permanent supply and then just the relay control wire is wired into the original high beam.

kuva5.jpeg


Finished product, behind the grill. Completely invisible!

kuva6.jpeg


But not so invisible when you flip high beams on.. :)

kuva7.jpeg


Even though the light is curved, the beam is surprisingly narrow. Doesn't look very bright from this angle.

I just drove a small 20km trip at dark just to test this light, and I have to say it's incredible. Didn't take any photos, sorry. But now it really feels safe to drive at night. :)
 
Hey!! Nice install!!! Where are the high beam signal cables located? How did you tapped into?

Does the light seem shadowed by the grill?

Thanks!!!

I have a 2013 model with HID lights. High beam signal is available directly in the headlight connector, either side. I just measured all the pins how they change if toggling low / high beam. There is one wire that gets +12V when at high beam..

I used a wire tap to connect the wire to the light bar relay.

I don't think it's shadowed much by the grill. Obviously it might block a little, but it's still incredibly bright when compared to the stock lights..
 
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Reactions: Russell
@Zuikkis Thanks so much for your excellent write up.
I just finished this same exact project on my 2013 MS. Here's my summary of the project.

Light bar
eBay - seller is "buymoremoreshop"
$75 including shipping
After receiving the light, it states 300 watts, but it is actually around 50 watts, as a 3 amp fuse blew, but a 5 amp fuse did not blow.

List of tools needed
  • T20 torx
  • Rivet pry tool
  • 10mm socket
  • Wire taps
  • Rivet gun and rivets
  • Electrical connectors
  • Electrical wire stripping tool
  • Electrical tape
  • Electrical digital multimeter
  • Black & red electric wire
  • Electrical relay, min 5 amp capacity
  • Carpet for front bumper
  • Drill & drill bits
  • Shop vac
  • White grease pencil
  • Washers of various sizes


How to remove bumper
How To: Front Bumper and Headlight Removal

  • Put car on ramps, or very high suspension
  • Put blanket on ground to protect bumper paint
  • Remove 10 plastic rivets on underside of car. Rivets are different sizes, so keep track
  • In the front wheel well, remove T20 torx, one per wheel
  • Remove left & right plastic trim (top piece not necessary) under frunk
  • Remove 10mm bolt near headlight, one per side
  • On the passenger side, near the headlight, disconnect wire harness for front bumper, by pushing tab down
  • Similar to rear bumper, front bumper is held on by clips. Start at rear of bumper, pull, and work forward

Mount light bar
  • Use shop vac to clean debris from front of car and heat exchangers
  • Remove entire front plastic piece in front of heat exchanger
  • Attach mounting brackets to light bar
  • You may want to mount light bar temporarily using zip ties to line everything up first
  • Using a white grease pencil, mark and drill the front steel bumper for mounting
  • Using washers and rivet gun, mount light bar


Electrical wiring
  • The jumper posts are a viable option for a power source. I added an additional switch mounted in the center console in case I ever wanted to turn the light bar off.
  • For the electrical relay, tapping the headlight wire, the wires you need have the following colors (I have a 2013 MS)
Low beam – Dark blue, red stripe
High beam – Dark green, red stripe
I chose the low beam wire, and marked the high beam wire in case I needed to change it in the future.

Evaluation
  • The whole installation took 3 hours with two people. I would recommend two people, as needed to dismount and mount the bumper.
  • My friend and I questioned the need for the large plastic piece in front of the heat exchanger, so we removed it. It probably funnels the air directly to the heat exchangers, focusing the air and increasing the velocity of the air (since it is shaped like two funnels), but it also blocks air flow from a significant area. Many vehicles use the same setup after this "funnel" was removed - a slotted bumper to prevent road damage, and the heat exchanger right after the bumper. Using a shop vac also helped heat exchanger performance in the future.
  • What about the light bar performance? For $75 and one night's labor, I would highly recommend it! Cheap upgrade, and additional light for safety on remote mountain roads. Mounting it directly below the bumper lines the light bar up perfectly with the top of the two openings in the bumper.
  • Also, learning how to remove the front bumper will help with future repairs.

Large plastic piece in front of heat exchanger
Light.jpg