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Model Y HW4 with OEM Tow Hitch Installed

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As a follow up, I finally got the car back that Monday afternoon. They said "all the wiring was right, we have no explanation" but apparently pushing the software again--or whatever else they did--worked. The one guy said I was the first one he'd met with a hitch that said they actually towed; "most just want to use a bike rack".

Then I read that finding a brake controller that works on the 16V vehicles is tricky... 😣
 
I have a 2024 MYLR with factory trailer hitch. I bought a 4 pin adapter for my bike rack which has built in LEDs (Kuat Piston Pro X). The lights work perfectly as designed. Make sure you enable trailer mode in the software. It might not be sending power unless you do. Also make sure the adapter you got is fully seated.
 
As a follow up, I finally got the car back that Monday afternoon. They said "all the wiring was right, we have no explanation" but apparently pushing the software again--or whatever else they did--worked. The one guy said I was the first one he'd met with a hitch that said they actually towed; "most just want to use a bike rack".

Then I read that finding a brake controller that works on the 16V vehicles is tricky... 😣
I've heard that about the brake controllers too, but it seems everyone that actually tries it is successful. The Tekonsha P3 should work, and I just bought a Tekonsha Primus IQ that I'll be trying very soon. 16V isn't far off from 14.7-15v that most cars supply when running.
 
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I have a 2024 MYLR with factory trailer hitch. I bought a 4 pin adapter for my bike rack which has built in LEDs (Kuat Piston Pro X). The lights work perfectly as designed. Make sure you enable trailer mode in the software. It might not be sending power unless you do. Also make sure the adapter you got is fully seated.

Can you post a link to the adapter you purchased? I have the exact same rack and a 2023 MYLR and haven't gotten it to work yet despite definitely being in trailer mode. Now I'm wondering if it's the adapter...
 
I've heard that about the brake controllers too, but it seems everyone that actually tries it is successful. The Tekonsha P3 should work, and I just bought a Tekonsha Primus IQ that I'll be trying very soon. 16V isn't far off from 14.7-15v that most cars supply when running.
If you have a long term usage result of the Tekonsha P3 that would be nice.

It is not enough to say the a regular car device that is specified for 14.7-15 is actually usable on the Tesla 16V system, often devices will fail after a long term usage.

We could always uses BBD bucket brigade devices to get the voltage back down but it is a added device that on the long run could go bad, having a approved voltage device is preferable.