Flybyglass
Member
OK that must be the Android version. Nothing in the IOS version.It's down at the bottom under the advanced tab where you see load and send configuration.
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OK that must be the Android version. Nothing in the IOS version.It's down at the bottom under the advanced tab where you see load and send configuration.
If lithium iron phosphate which has a deep cycle count significantly exceeding lithium ternary batteries is only lasting 2 years something is seriously wrong with either the battery management system or there is a mismatch between Battery Management systems and 12 volt sub system in the car. It's actually cold weather that's the bigger problem for lithium iron phosphate chemistries in these cars. You probably don't have that problem too much of the year but anytime it gets below 45°, this increases the chances of the car seeing the battery as deficient and then suiciding it. In any case no argument on ohmmu's problematic customer service.In Texas at least, both regular lead acid and Li ion battery’s last about 2 years before needing replacement.
so back to regular lead acid for me. I am assuming our hi temperatures may have something to do with this but not sure. Ohmmu has terrible customer service so that also contributed to my decision to go back to lead acid.
Dfwatt has me blocked because he doesn't know how a Tesla motor and inverter works, but here I go:If lithium iron phosphate which has a deep cycle count significantly exceeding lithium ternary batteries is only lasting 2 years something is seriously wrong with either the battery management system or there is a mismatch between Battery Management systems and 12 volt sub system in the car.
This should immediately make you suspicious.Cycle count for my year old is at 8 via the app
Mine was on a shelf at 60% from late Oct -May or so when we got the firmware update ability. So it didn’t see any action for ~7 of the 12 mo.This should immediately make you suspicious.
3,200wh over a year. 8,800 hours in a year.
That's 0.36w on average. That's less than a modern smart phone draws while the screen is off.
It's only 30ma at 12v. Yet if you put a current clamp on the wire to the battery you will see loads at least 10x that when the car is fully asleep and way more when it's awake.
It's an impossible number and should immediately make you call Ohmmu and ask them how it's calculated and why it's so wrong.
How do people determine/measure power usage while awake topping of 12V battery?
Several months ago I measured the 12V DC power usage while the car was sleeping with an ammeter connected in line and found the power usage to be about 7 to 8 watts. This measurement could have also been performed using a shunt. Many sources say the power usage while the car is awake (normally...teslamotorsclub.com
There are plenty of videos of Ohmmu's disassembled out there.Someone needs to put the string/parallel chemistry of the cells /pouch on the battery as a way to make all this easier in the long term.
I have the V4+ back in for the last 3 weeks. What I see is after a normal start the PCS will charge the V4+ back to just over 14V like you have, then apply a few amps draw to bring it down into the 13.8 range. Sometimes more or less. Observing the PCS in Service Mode while the battery is drawing down the PCS output is reduced still showing green like intentional. I see it as giving the PCS a rest. I also note about once a week what I call a "Battery Integrity check." This can be misinterpreted as "suicide mode". It will draw 25 amps (meaning the PCS is only putting out maybe 5 amps still showing green) and as the voltage approaches 13.3 it slows. Around 13.04 the draw is maybe 5 amps and it will sit there for a couple hours. Once reaching 12.99 amps the draw is lowered to about 1 amp. Once at about 12.9 it stops drawing (battery showing 19-20%. Then sits a bit then charges back up to 100%, takes a little off say 97% and stops. Never a warning in Notifications or Service mode. Not sure if Tesla updates the software to accept Lithiums or if Ohmmu improved the BMS software. While using IOS there is no version numbering for the software but if an update is done it always pulls the most recent from the server. For me this whole battery check process took about 5 hours. I keep waiting for a warning message but nothing. I keep a couple 12 volt batteries on the shelf in case and when reading 19% I was ready to extract but didn't need to.So after watching that video. I'm wondering if my V4+ is stressing out my PCS as he mentioned. Kind of a scary thought.
FWIW. My current V4+ has been pretty good. I did experience those Black screen situations 4 or so months back. Maybe longer and thought it was related to the V4+ but a few Tesla software updates came through and the issue went away.
My V4+ has 96 cycles and is over a year old. Is anyone else dumping their battery and going back to LA for fear of harming the PCS?
View attachment 971983View attachment 971984
Also I did NOT update or change my Firmware. It's still on the same as the day I got it.
You're claiming that a 40ah,12v battery can't handle more than a 40A load? And that a 40A load on a 40ah battery would only last a few minutes?These aren’t made to do much more than 360-480w. Any thing bigger and you’ll be down to minutes of battery life.
12V X 30A = 360wYou're claiming that a 40ah,12v battery can't handle more than a 40A load? And that a 40A load on a 40ah battery would only last a few minutes?
How does a 40ah normal car battery do 600cca (7000w)?
The whole point of the video was very short bursts of 100A. Not running power steering by itself. And not that power steering can draw that for more than a moment either.
You literally said "a few minutes" when the stock battery can sustain 360W for 80 minutes. That's not what most people would call a "few."12V X 30A = 360w
There isn’t enough Amp hours in these batteries to support a large load for any sustained period of time.
It's two posts up:I don’t know where a ‘few minutes’ comes from if I said it .. I think I said ‘15 min’.
The comments on 100A draw from accessories like power steering etc in the video; I’ve seen no evidence of this directly. That load would seem excessive for the tiny battery they put in these cars. These aren’t made to do much more than 360-480w. Any thing bigger and you’ll be down to minutes of battery life.
The "trash" was that the whole design was inappropriate FOR A TESLA. A Tesla is not a power station. It is not OK if the BMS takes the battery offline because it decides the voltage is too high, or the battery is too cold, or the voltage is too low. The lead acid never does this. The system was not designed with a LiFe with a BMS. It's flat out incompatible.Then proceeded to trash the batteries design. I’ve taken apart power stations, these things all look like this on the inside so none of that was a shock.
Can you please explain this "witnessed load shed?" You're saying you've seen the PCS in your car go out, and then seen the Tesla start shedding 12V loads and somehow in that process you ended up with a capacity estimation? And that this was 30A? And that this left 15 minutes of time? But you estimated 30AH, despite 15 minutes at 30A being 7.5AH?but again it’s based on witnessed load shed and estimated runtime at 30A.
None of these numbers make sense or have any relevance to the Tesla. You have a 518Wh power station, that is somehow recharged with 240Wh of power, which is plenty, so the battery must be great for how a Tesla uses it?Sean let me keep mine, it charges a 518Wh power station once a week. its been in service for 29 weeks now. More than enough capacity to charge 60w for 4hrs.