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Look what my son made me in school
- Thread starter Birdman325
- Start date
Mikedrives
Member
jkoya
NA2 NSX
linux-works
Active Member
When he was sanding the supports off, the side mirrors snapped off. A little bit of hot glue took care of it.
I was thrilled. Best gift I have received in a long time.
I was thrilled. Best gift I have received in a long time.
linux-works
Active Member
I wonder if it was this one:
Tesla Model 3 by stunner2211
or this
Tesla Model 3 split mesh by hugues1965
Tesla Model 3 by stunner2211
or this
Tesla Model 3 split mesh by hugues1965
Last edited:
JasonR67
Member
yerEVan
Active Member
JasonR67
Member
This one is non-free but I always thought his designs were really cool:
https://fab365.net/items/174
https://fab365.net/items/174
linux-works
Active Member
I took the .stl from thingiverse and scaled it to 8x so that it would give a reasonable sized model.
used 25% fill IIRC.
I started the print at 3pm yesterday (wed) and its been printing continuously; its now 7.15am on thurs and its only
octoprint's status as of right now (rasp pi driver for the 3d printer, very commonly used):
I'm printing at .1mm layer height for fine details, as seen in cura's settings:
this is gonna be at least another day of printing, maybe more!
hope it comes out
used 25% fill IIRC.
I started the print at 3pm yesterday (wed) and its been printing continuously; its now 7.15am on thurs and its only
octoprint's status as of right now (rasp pi driver for the 3d printer, very commonly used):
I'm printing at .1mm layer height for fine details, as seen in cura's settings:
this is gonna be at least another day of printing, maybe more!
hope it comes out
linux-works
Active Member
I am printing very slowly, just to avoid any dropped lines/layers. I did a very small scale test of this and it dropped some layers. this is a 'write once, look at many' kind of thing so I don't mind doing the print extra extra slow. (even still, it didn't do some lines right and its only at 80% right now!)
my feed or flow rate (not sure which, the only knob on the printer) is at 24% and I keep it slow just for accuracy.
this model has lots of detail, but its not the most print-friendly. I think the multi-part model might be better, if you want something really desk worthy. this is a fun print, but it should be made from parts and not all in one thing. the mirrors are gonna break, first, unless I encase this is in a plexiglass box. its just a hair of plastic to hold the 'mirrors' up
maybe by tomorrow AM it will be done. I'll post a better photo (with a real camera) when its done.
if you have time, I'd say go for even more than 8x scale. there is lots of detail in this model and it all gets dropped when you scale it down so much.
my feed or flow rate (not sure which, the only knob on the printer) is at 24% and I keep it slow just for accuracy.
this model has lots of detail, but its not the most print-friendly. I think the multi-part model might be better, if you want something really desk worthy. this is a fun print, but it should be made from parts and not all in one thing. the mirrors are gonna break, first, unless I encase this is in a plexiglass box. its just a hair of plastic to hold the 'mirrors' up
maybe by tomorrow AM it will be done. I'll post a better photo (with a real camera) when its done.
if you have time, I'd say go for even more than 8x scale. there is lots of detail in this model and it all gets dropped when you scale it down so much.
linux-works
Active Member
body is done. at 8x, the side mirrors will fall off if you look at them the wrong way. they should really be separate parts that are glued on. printing it would be easier, too; for this print I used supports touching the plate (not the body) and yet I still got body rash (seen under the mirror, vertical line on door).
for the wheels, I printed them in black PLA and sunk them into the build plate to chop off their axles. that left a hole, which I could enlarge and force a brass #2-56 3/4" screw. it won't spin, but it will stay and that's good enough for this build brass was easy to just cut the head off and then either put the all-thread into the body first or the wheel first. don't matter.
wheels were 45 minutes to print, each. again, slow printing and my ender-3 is not the fastest thing in the world. for a $199 printer, I don't complain much about it.
that line under the mirror is really annoying. I may have to take this in to tesla service ... but there's no VIN for this car, so I'm not sure how to add it to my app.
for the wheels, I printed them in black PLA and sunk them into the build plate to chop off their axles. that left a hole, which I could enlarge and force a brass #2-56 3/4" screw. it won't spin, but it will stay and that's good enough for this build
brass was easy to just cut the head off and then either put the all-thread into the body first or the wheel first. don't matter.wheels were 45 minutes to print, each. again, slow printing and my ender-3 is not the fastest thing in the world. for a $199 printer, I don't complain much about it.
that line under the mirror is really annoying. I may have to take this in to tesla service ... but there's no VIN for this car, so I'm not sure how to add it to my app.
looks like I may have to give it a whirl with my custom core xy printer. Im going to print in abs tho cause reasons.
maybe increase your coast distance or increase your retraction or lower your printing temp @linux-works. Personally I’d increase coast distance by 1 mm and decrease temp by 10c and give it another go if you really were going for a perfect print. Ooze happens.
maybe increase your coast distance or increase your retraction or lower your printing temp @linux-works. Personally I’d increase coast distance by 1 mm and decrease temp by 10c and give it another go if you really were going for a perfect print. Ooze happens.
Mrcarcrazy
In need of a shrinking gun to zap a plaid with.
linux-works
Active Member
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