Model 3 charging now limited to 34Amps after 24.6.9 update?

[Kevin-rf]

Not to be that person, but Tesla limited the Gen. 2 Mobile connector to 32 amps for a safety reason. If they had a way to reliably detect a Gen 1. and down grade it 32/34 amps I wouldn't blame them.

The standard which allows a 40amp breaker behind a NEMA 14-50, 40amps derated to 32amps covers *"all" cases safely. Tesla cannot insure you always have a 50amp breaker.

That said, it sounds more like an issue with the OP's electrical setup, and not Tesla nerfing the Gen. 1's.

 

[RayK]

Is that only applicable for 240v chargers? Otherwise people would be getting 12mph on 110v outlets, and it reality they get 4-6mph.

More like 3-5MPH when using 120V, but yes, that's correct. 240V basically doubles the power going into the car over the 120V supply.

Formula is : Power = Current x Voltage

So doubling the voltage at the same current level, doubles the power.

 

[Vines]

Not to be that person, but Tesla limited the Gen. 2 Mobile connector to 32 amps for a safety reason. If they had a way to reliably detect a Gen 1. and down grade it 32/34 amps I wouldn't blame them.

The standard which allows a 40amp breaker behind a NEMA 14-50, 40amps derated to 32amps covers *"all" cases safely. Tesla cannot insure you always have a 50amp breaker.

That said, it sounds more like an issue with the OP's electrical setup, and not Tesla nerfing the Gen. 1's.

While I agree Tesla did this for safety and cost reasons, there is nothing wrong with a 50A outlet drawing 40A continuous when correctly setup.

When incorrectly setup, any outlet is dangerous. The edge case that you discuss where a 50A outlet is protected by a 40A breaker is pretty darn rare, and usually happens only when a Gen2 UMC user discovers the wording (but not in my opinion the intent) in the code. This loophole is specific to 40A devices like the UMC2, which plug in to a 50A outlet.

Basically only EV users are installing NEMA 14-50 outlets with 40A breakers per this exemption, and then only UMC2 users, and then only ones that have a #8 cu. romex wiring, which is only good for 40A.
Hopefully if you are part of this edge case, either you don't switch to a Gen1 UMC, or if you do you have a good breaker that still trips.

 

[Austindude]

While I agree Tesla did this for safety and cost reasons, there is nothing wrong with a 50A outlet drawing 40A continuous when correctly setup.

When incorrectly setup, any outlet is dangerous. The edge case that you discuss where a 50A outlet is protected by a 40A breaker is pretty darn rare, and usually happens only when a Gen2 UMC user discovers the wording (but not in my opinion the intent) in the code. This loophole is specific to 40A devices like the UMC2, which plug in to a 50A outlet.

Basically only EV users are installing NEMA 14-50 outlets with 40A breakers per this exemption, and then only UMC2 users, and then only ones that have a #8 cu. romex wiring, which is only good for 40A.
Hopefully if you are part of this edge case, either you don't switch to a Gen1 UMC, or if you do you have a good breaker that still trips.

I have #6 wiring, 50 amp breaker, and that is fine for 40 amp charging. I used the same set up for my Model S which used a gen1 charger. The Model 3 can charge at even higher currents at 240V when using a wall charger so I don't know why there would be any issue? The statement that Tesla should reduce the charging available when using a gen1 connector seems odd to me.

 

[Andy7]

I have been having a charging issue lately and it is one that apparently has affected others, from what Tesla told me.

I had a Gen 3 wall connector installed a couple of months ago by an electrician (not a Tesla listed one) on a doubled set of 30 amp breakers in a brand-new box with 200 amp service. The cabling distance from the box to the wall connector outside is about 2 feet.

It would charge at 11 kW and all was fine. About a month ago, I found it would sometimes stop charging and I would go out, unplug it and it would start again. This happened irregularly. It seemed to charge OK with the 110 volt connector except for errors twice. Then it would start at 11kW but soon downgrade to 6 kW and finish the charge.

I called for service and they gave me an appointment for about a month away, which was July 29 and they texted and said to call the wall connector people. I did not do that because I was not sure whether the problem was in the car’s interface with the connector or if it was in the connector, and I was managing.

He came on the 29th and could find nothing wrong. He wanted me to note the exact time it happened so they could more easily find the relevant code. Then just before he left, it downgraded to 6 kW after charging for about 30 minutes. It gave a code of the top light being red and blinking three times. He spent another 20-30 minutes reviewing code and manuals and could find nothing relevant; he suggested calling the wall connector people.

I called the connector number and after a few minutes describing the problem, he said that this is an issue they are having-mine is not unique. He said a software update to the connector had been pushed out but it apparently did not help mine. When I asked, he said that they can update the connector software without us knowing it happened.

He said they would send me a new wall connector to fix the problem, but the installation was on me. I told him that did not seem right, since it was their defect in a box that was a couple of months old. I don’t think he called Elon about it.

I was surprised that the regular tech had not been told of this problem and it did not appear with his investigation.

So, one question is, can I just replace the faceplate as I think it has all the brains. I think the wirebox has a temperature sensor but not much else. I can replace the faceplate in about three minutes without an electrician. I think I can replace the wirebox if I had to, as the wires are in place.

Any thoughts from those who know more than I do about this subject (which likely includes many of you).

 

[smatthew]

It sounds like you're complaining about your own lack of action. Why didn't you call the wall connector people when they told you to? Seems like this would have been resolved a month ago if you had only listened to their advice the first time.

 

[thor_2019]

@Andy7 the wall connector should have a 60A service (breaker and wire) to charge at 11kw. 30A breaker is only good for 6kw

 

[Gasaraki]

This has

I have been having a charging issue lately and it is one that apparently has affected others, from what Tesla told me.

I had a Gen 3 wall connector installed a couple of months ago by an electrician (not a Tesla listed one) on a doubled set of 30 amp breakers in a brand-new box with 200 amp service. The cabling distance from the box to the wall connector outside is about 2 feet.

It would charge at 11 kW and all was fine. About a month ago, I found it would sometimes stop charging and I would go out, unplug it and it would start again. This happened irregularly. It seemed to charge OK with the 110 volt connector except for errors twice. Then it would start at 11kW but soon downgrade to 6 kW and finish the charge.

I called for service and they gave me an appointment for about a month away, which was July 29 and they texted and said to call the wall connector people. I did not do that because I was not sure whether the problem was in the car’s interface with the connector or if it was in the connector, and I was managing.

He came on the 29th and could find nothing wrong. He wanted me to note the exact time it happened so they could more easily find the relevant code. Then just before he left, it downgraded to 6 kW after charging for about 30 minutes. It gave a code of the top light being red and blinking three times. He spent another 20-30 minutes reviewing code and manuals and could find nothing relevant; he suggested calling the wall connector people.

I called the connector number and after a few minutes describing the problem, he said that this is an issue they are having-mine is not unique. He said a software update to the connector had been pushed out but it apparently did not help mine. When I asked, he said that they can update the connector software without us knowing it happened.

He said they would send me a new wall connector to fix the problem, but the installation was on me. I told him that did not seem right, since it was their defect in a box that was a couple of months old. I don’t think he called Elon about it.

I was surprised that the regular tech had not been told of this problem and it did not appear with his investigation.

So, one question is, can I just replace the faceplate as I think it has all the brains. I think the wirebox has a temperature sensor but not much else. I can replace the faceplate in about three minutes without an electrician. I think I can replace the wirebox if I had to, as the wires are in place.

Any thoughts from those who know more than I do about this subject (which likely includes many of you).

I have the Gen 3 wall charger and recently I have had charging "problems" also. This has been installed for about a month or so and it's been working fine, charging at 48A 240V for the whole charging session. About a week ago, the charger would slow down to 24A after about (30 mins?) or so of charging and then sometimes would even drop to 6A. I called Tesla wall charger support, they took a look at my wall unit remotely and said that it recently got an update that lowers charging speeds due to overheating. No "fixes" are available yet.

 

[Andy7]

I am sorry I was not clear: there are two 30 amps ganged together giving the circuit 60 amps.

 

[Andy7]

This has


I have the Gen 3 wall charger and recently I have had charging "problems" also. This has been installed for about a month or so and it's been working fine, charging at 48A 240V for the whole charging session. About a week ago, the charger would slow down to 24A after about (30 mins?) or so of charging and then sometimes would even drop to 6A. I called Tesla wall charger support, they took a look at my wall unit remotely and said that it recently got an update that lowers charging speeds due to overheating. No "fixes" are available yet.

They kind of told me the opposite, that the update was supposed to correct a charging problem, not lower the rate. I don't know why mine (or yours) would be overheating. I understand that if it is not connected right that could happen, but a real electrician put mine in. They apparently had seen enough instances of this error that they said they would send me a new one. I have not heard anything since last week about a shipment. I'll give them some more time since I am "managing."

You might want to call them again and mention what happened with me. Good luck and let me know what the outcome is, as I will from my end.

 

[thor_2019]

I am sorry I was not clear: there are two 30 amps ganged together giving the circuit 60 amps.

That is not how circuit breakers work. For 240v circuit you'll need a dual pole 60a breaker, whoever did your install did it wrong.

 

[Andy7]

That is not how circuit breakers work. For 240v circuit you'll need a dual pole 60a breaker, whoever did your install did it wrong.

Not surprisingly, I remembered the breakers incorrectly and you are right. There are dual 60 amp breakers, so my electrician did it correctly. There is #6 wire on the 2 foot trip to the wall connector.

There are several recent threads addressing this problem, so it seems pretty widespread. I hope Tesla monitors this forum.

 

[EV3_]

It seems like a sensor problem. The unit "thinks" it is overheating when in fact it isn't. Seems to have popped up with a recent firmware change. The "current" firmware will limit it to 24 amps to allow the charge to complete, but does not address the base problem. If it is really firmware, I'd hope for a fix at some point. I'm about to have my Gen 3 installed, so at least I know what I'm getting into...

 

[Gasaraki]

It seems like a sensor problem. The unit "thinks" it is overheating when in fact it isn't. Seems to have popped up with a recent firmware change. The "current" firmware will limit it to 24 amps to allow the charge to complete, but does not address the base problem. If it is really firmware, I'd hope for a fix at some point. I'm about to have my Gen 3 installed, so at least I know what I'm getting into...

I really hope it's sensor problem. I hate to have paid $500+ to get 48A charging and paid to have an electrician come install it and then be stuck at 24A charging when I could have used the included charging cable and gotten 32A with a 14-50 plug.

 

[ElectricIAC]

Not to be that person, but Tesla limited the Gen. 2 Mobile connector to 32 amps for a safety reason. If they had a way to reliably detect a Gen 1. and down grade it 32/34 amps I wouldn't blame them.

The standard which allows a 40amp breaker behind a NEMA 14-50, 40amps derated to 32amps covers *"all" cases safely. Tesla cannot insure you always have a 50amp breaker.

That said, it sounds more like an issue with the OP's electrical setup, and not Tesla nerfing the Gen. 1's.

Fair point.

G2 connector has its pluses and minus too though. For one it’s very sensitive to ambient changes and if you have a secondary breaker on your 14-50 it can trigger it very easily.