Model 3 Subwoofer

[shhbae]

Hello!
Has anybody achieved a successful install of an aftermarket subwoofer and amp (1500w+ specifically) install? I’ve seen threads discussing kits for plug and play, as well as lower wattage amps, but I’m concerned about using the 12v battery and killing it, or even using the battery under the rear seat and causing error codes to appear.

Thanks

 

[D4v3]

Have been researching this myself - there are plenty of references on threads here and guides online to people doing it (not sure if I'm allowed to post the links I've found here but they are not difficult to find on Google/ twitter).

The risk of an error code seems to be real (something about surges between the amp and 12v and firmware being super sensitive to anything of this nature) but some people have had no issue and others have gotten around this by using a relay. Also I've seen a product called battcap mentioned as a solution.

My challenge at the moment is finding/ making sure a suitable amp and sub combo. The ones I've seen referenced on the guides are not available in the UK.

 

[amorris]

I have a 2021 Model 3 SR+ and I’m running a DAmore E1000.1 1000W amp with SI SQL-12 and Helix V Eight DSP Amp no problems off the front battery for over a year. I didn’t really want to do the resistor relay mod, but I am considering putting a LifePo battery in the trunk and running everything off that.

 

[Gokk]

Hello!
Has anybody achieved a successful install of an aftermarket subwoofer and amp (1500w+ specifically) install? I’ve seen threads discussing kits for plug and play, as well as lower wattage amps, but I’m concerned about using the 12v battery and killing it, or even using the battery under the rear seat and causing error codes to appear.

Thanks

Same question here. I was (casually) recommended a Kenwood KSC-PST10W powered subby to install in my 2022 Tesla Model 3 RWD. Specs are 1200W max power but 350W RMS. Has anyone installed a similar powered amp/sub? I'm trying to work out if the power draw is going to kill the 12v lithium ion battery or trigger errors. Any ideas?

 

[shhbae]

Same question here. I was (casually) recommended a Kenwood KSC-PST10W powered subby to install in my 2022 Tesla Model 3 RWD. Specs are 1200W max power but 350W RMS. Has anyone installed a similar powered amp/sub? I'm trying to work out if the power draw is going to kill the 12v lithium ion battery or trigger errors. Any ideas?

UPDATE!!!: the most reliable method i found is currently out of my price range. however, it includes a supplementary 12v Battery, and using the 12v DC/DC to “trickle charge” said 12V battery. you can use the LOC that auto detects signal and sends remote(on/off) signal to the amp. so, supp. 12v to DC/DC, 12v to amp, LOC to amp(remote and L/R signal, AMP to sub.

 

[shhbae]

I have a 2021 Model 3 SR+ and I’m running a DAmore E1000.1 1000W amp with SI SQL-12 and Helix V Eight DSP Amp no problems off the front battery for over a year. I didn’t really want to do the resistor relay mod, but I am considering putting a LifePo battery in the trunk and running everything off that.

yes, i just posted a response to someone on the same thread (sorry about my poor forum etiquette) and i mentioned adding a supplementary battery. it would be smart of you to keep those relays handy, as i forgot to mention those are necessary for adding the supplemental battery anyway. i haven’t seen anybody have issues with using DC/DC on board for trickle charging the extra battery as opposed to manually plugging it into a separate charger. i hope this helps please feel free to open up for discussion. you have the right idea.

 

[Gokk]

UPDATE!!!: the most reliable method i found is currently out of my price range. however, it includes a supplementary 12v Battery, and using the 12v DC/DC to “trickle charge” said 12V battery. you can use the LOC that auto detects signal and sends remote(on/off) signal to the amp. so, supp. 12v to DC/DC, 12v to amp, LOC to amp(remote and L/R signal, AMP to sub.

Makes sense, thanks! Trying to avoid the extra battery though due to cost.

Also, apologies - my sub is actually a Kenwood KSC-PSW10ST (can’t edit my original post due to noob status )

 

[BYTizzle]

I've been reading threads on this subject since before I even took delivery of my car. You read so many success stories and then many that follow plagued with error codes. Lower power add on subs seem to be no issue, like the NVX setup (or similar). I was planning to run my dual 12" SSA Icons with Sundown SALT 3K but decided against it, at least for now. I just watched a Tesla on Steve Meade's YouTube channel with 12 8's that was KNOCKING. So, I know its possible to put a stout system in the car!

 

[Gokk]

So update to my Kenwood KSC-PSW10ST install (which is 350 watts RMS). Put it in, sounded good for 10 minutes while I tweaked settings, no codes. Also fits in the OEM spot if you make up a bracket, which is pretty great. I was happy! I got out, did a software update, got back in and no sub output. I checked and the inline fuses on the amp had blown. I tried twice more, blew straight away each time as soon as the power cable was connected to the amp. Nuts that it was working fine initially and then started blowing fuses. Anyone experienced something similar? At this point I think I'm going to have to bite the bullet and go to an installer....

 

[tegra7]

So update to my Kenwood KSC-PSW10ST install (which is 350 watts RMS). Put it in, sounded good for 10 minutes while I tweaked settings, no codes. Also fits in the OEM spot if you make up a bracket, which is pretty great. I was happy! I got out, did a software update, got back in and no sub output. I checked and the inline fuses on the amp had blown. I tried twice more, blew straight away each time as soon as the power cable was connected to the amp. Nuts that it was working fine initially and then started blowing fuses. Anyone experienced something similar? At this point I think I'm going to have to bite the bullet and go to an installer....

Any update on what caused the fuse blowing? Why do the li ion batteries not like having an amp hooked upto them? I have a 2021 with a lead acid battery and i heard when tesla replaces the battery including older lead acid ones they will put in a li ion battery. Can i refuse and request for a normal lead acid battery instead?

 

[Gokk]

Any update on what caused the fuse blowing? Why do the li ion batteries not like having an amp hooked upto them? I have a 2021 with a lead acid battery and i heard when tesla replaces the battery including older lead acid ones they will put in a li ion battery. Can i refuse and request for a normal lead acid battery instead?

The fuse was blowing because I didn’t have the car completely turned off…. Using the touchscreen option alone isn’t enough to turn the car off. You need to disconnect the lithium battery at the front as well as the main battery connector under the rear seat. This completely turns the car off and then you can install your amplifier.

Re your battery question, I am not attaching the amp to the lithium ion battery in the front. I’m attaching it to the penthouse under the rear seat as this doesn’t suffer battery drain like the li-ion.

I ended up buying completely separate app and that worked fine. A Hertz DPower 1 monoblock amp. No more issues, thank God.

 

[tegra7]

Where are you guys mounting the fuse holder? Manual for my amp says no more than 18” away from positive terminal.

 

[tegra7]

2021 sr+
Wondering if anyone know how many volts the rca lines would be from tapping into the front speakers.

 

[Lashlee]

Since you've got the standard audio, it should be similar to what you get out of the midranges. I don't remember what I tested them to be, but it'll be fine for feeding most decent quality line output convertors.