I’m also running the XLCA2X but it’s set to Aud and not DC offset. I may change that as well. I may switch to the 500 rms amp if the 1000W amp is the culprit. I’ll report back tomorrow with some more news (hopefully good news).
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NVX Boost Subwoofer upgrade - installed
- Thread starter C-Bus Y
- Start date
If it helps, the NVX tech is the one who told me to set it to DC offset after I explained what was happening. I then tested it multiple times to make sure it was shutting off (which it is). It basically mirrors the factory amp in terms of when it turns on/off. Also, I just installed the 2023.26.1 update a few days ago with no issues.
bo3bdar
Member
Just noting that I think it's really unlikely that your amp is drawing too much power. That penthouse connector can provide 200A at 12V, which is 2400W of power. Even with everything turned on like heater and AC for defog, and lights and all it'd be tough to get that much draw. Travis runs bigger amps than that, 3 750W amps, and has not seen any sort of problems.
That software problem can happen if the file is corrupted somehow. IIRC your car died and needed to be jumped. That sort of full power fail could easily corrupt a file, especially if it died while writing, and it should be correctable. If you are really concerned, you could contact Tesla support via the app and ask them to push a new update.
I once had a bad update for my car, and have yet to finish my installation, so it was a normalish error.
I agree that in the grand scheme of things, the amp draw is nothing. If the update failure is somehow related though (which others have said similar), that’s the only thing it could be IMO.
I’ve had updates “hang” over the years myself - never had this error though. One way to find out is to disconnect the amp and try again. To your point, if it’s just a corrupt file, then the error will persist.
That was someone else whose vehicle needed to be jumped. I've been good so far as that is concerned as well as no other error codes besides an inability to complete an update. I've had two attempted updates fail up to this point (2023.26.1 on Saturday and then 2023.20.9 yesterday).
For sure, I'm going to go over all my connections. I'm going to even go over the PAC harness I used and check it throughly.
There is a PAC harness?! Where did you get that from?
Update: found your other post. Thx!!
FWIW, I have had 0 problems with the 1,000 watt amp as long as the toggle switch is used. You could use the toggle switch to control the power to the LOC, which would then shut down the entire system including the LOC and amp when the toggle switch is off.
I have the 12V battery and connected to the penthouse. Pound on this system daily.
I have the 12V battery and connected to the penthouse. Pound on this system daily.
C-Bus Y, did you have to alter the wiring inside the boost boxes in order to get the 1 ohm rating when you connected both to the VAD10001. I assume not, but just wanted to make sure, both boxes should be at 2 ohm when you received them?
bo3bdar
Member
Hadn't heard of these PAC harnesses, very cool. Correct me if wrong, but these are passive on Tesla setups, not active CANBUS like for other cars. As long as it's passive, it's very difficult to envision any scenario where it could impact the software updates. The audio output connection from the front is all audio/speaker level signals, and even if those were shorted or open circuits, would only affect the amp and sound.
If this taps into the premium audio at the rear somehow- that would be different, because that's a digital only signal at the amp back there that uses a proprietary signal only Tesla knows. In theory that could cause failures because it might not get a proper ACK response for a digital send, if it was somehow altered.
For my setup, I used the chinese wiring harness that enables the other installed speakers to be active. That's not a great idea because it overloads the main amp in the MCU, but is probably OK. I just took that harness and cut it up to make my own harness to send signals to my new amps in the rear. (SR car, no premium audio)
The other piece there is that there is a connector at rear of passenger door that allows access to the driver side tweeter. You either need to tap into this, or route wires to the driver side to enable the tweeter. The PAC harness (section C) did not seem to have that so I'm not sure how that works.
In any case- worth checking your setup to be sure you are only using output signals from the rear premium amp. Any input is going to be digital, and problematic.
You can also reset the incoming update by doing a Factory Reset. That might be something to try if you continue to have problems after disconnecting amps for debugging. The only thing you lose on Factory Reset that I can tell is your lifetime watts/mile measure, which gets reset to zero and starts again at new mileage.
Any pending update is marked invalid by Factory Reset, and it will redownload anything newer.
They come wired as a 2 ohm load (DVC 4 ohm subs wired in parallel). Wire two boxes together in parallel and you get a 1 ohm load.
My OCD got the best of me and I took the subs out of each box, enlarged the wiring and added some poly fill. I’m just a nerd like that…probably overkill.
Awesome, this is what I figured, but thought I'd ask. I should get my VAD10001/XLCA2X PRO, Passenger side Boost box and sub, in a couple of weeks and once I get this one installed I'll buy the sub for the driver side. While I'm digging around I will probably replace the factory 8" sub with a JL Audio 8W3v3-4 because I have it laying around. I'm curious to see how it sounds on the factory amp.
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Finally....
Thanks to @TwoK4drSi for pointing me to a Facebook post that got me sorted out.
Long story short I had to add a circuit breaker to my setup. The new 16V battery setup seems to be more sensitive than the previous 12V system. In some cars, not all 16V vehicles, the system sees a power draw from the amp (even when powered off) and prevents the completion of a software update.
I'll post more on my thoughts on the NVX setup as a whole when I have more time.
Thanks to @TwoK4drSi for pointing me to a Facebook post that got me sorted out.
Long story short I had to add a circuit breaker to my setup. The new 16V battery setup seems to be more sensitive than the previous 12V system. In some cars, not all 16V vehicles, the system sees a power draw from the amp (even when powered off) and prevents the completion of a software update.
I'll post more on my thoughts on the NVX setup as a whole when I have more time.
Attachments
@St3phen I'm about to install the NVX kit with VAD1 (500 RMS) and xlca2 LOC in my model 3 performance.
Would you recommend getting the XLCA2X loc instead?
Do you think that the XLCA2 wasn't shutting off when you had it in the model 3?
Did happen to put a fuse on the 12V that goes into the LOC? I'm going to tap the factory amp (I have premium with the sub.) for power and ground.
I may add a switch on the 12V in as well to be safe, but just wanted to get your thoughts.
Did you think the bass is cleaner with the XLCA2X?
At this point I'm leaning towards the XLCA2X. (I was about to pick up the bass knob for the XLCA2, so it would only be about $60 get the XLCA2X with the bass knob already included.)
Btw, way this is a great thread. Thanks in advance for the help, and thank you to you, @C-Bus Y, and everyone that has contributed to this thread.
Forgot to mentioned that I was asking about the XLCA2X bass, because it mentions "digital bass enhancer". Not sure if it makes the bass more clean. At this point, it's only $60 more for to buy the XLCA2X instead of just buying a bass knob for the XLCA2, so leaning towards the XLCA2X. Thanks
