Hi! I’m new here and I have just completed an install of an old Rockford Fosgate P3001 monoblock and a Rockford 10” P2 subwoofer in my 2023 Model 3 RWD (15.5V system). I’m happy to say it’s all working perfectly!
This install method (scraped from various forum posts and a week of research) should allow you to install ANY average amp in this car, as long as the wattage isn’t insanely high. I’ve attached links to the gear I used. These are *not* affiliate links, I legit just want to help the next person.
Here’s my circuit design:
To adapt the voltage, I’m using a rectifier that was designed for solar applications. In the diagram, this looks like two diodes at the top left.
By using the two appropriate terminals, it will induce a voltage drop of ~2V, dissipating a small amount of power as heat. This is why the rectifier is attached to a huge heat sink (I like overkill).
There’s a diagram on the side of the rectifier, but in my case, I connected the positive wire from the penthouse into the connection marked as negative on the rectifier. Then I hooked the positive on the rectifier into the rest of my circuit. This causes the power to pass through two diodes, inducing the desired voltage drop.
To fix the inrush current (and avoid getting errors on the computer), I’m using a 300 watt 5 ohm resistor. This resistor is connected across the switched legs of a 40A automotive relay (Novita RL44). When the relay is open, the energy flows through the resistor. When it’s closed, the resistor is bypassed.
***Important note about electromechanical relays***… when they shut off, the magnetic field collapses and generates a spike of voltage which can go back to whichever device is hooked up to the coil. To solve this, I have added a 1N4007 flyback diode across the relay coil. You must make sure the striped end of the diode is on the positive side of the coil. I crimped it into the relay harness, seen below.
To get the remote signal, I got an accessory power harness that attaches to the OBD connector underneath the rear vents. In this harness, the red wire is the switched accessory power and the yellow wire is constant 15.5V. I hooked this all into a Crydom 3A DC-DC solid state relay so that when the accessory power is on, it bridges the yellow 15.5V to a wire running to the remote input of my NVX XLCA2.
Here’s a picture of the total setup under my trunk:
To get the audio signal, I tapped the left and right woofer wires on a Hansshow harness.
I hope this helps someone!
This install method (scraped from various forum posts and a week of research) should allow you to install ANY average amp in this car, as long as the wattage isn’t insanely high. I’ve attached links to the gear I used. These are *not* affiliate links, I legit just want to help the next person.
Here’s my circuit design:
To adapt the voltage, I’m using a rectifier that was designed for solar applications. In the diagram, this looks like two diodes at the top left.
By using the two appropriate terminals, it will induce a voltage drop of ~2V, dissipating a small amount of power as heat. This is why the rectifier is attached to a huge heat sink (I like overkill).
There’s a diagram on the side of the rectifier, but in my case, I connected the positive wire from the penthouse into the connection marked as negative on the rectifier. Then I hooked the positive on the rectifier into the rest of my circuit. This causes the power to pass through two diodes, inducing the desired voltage drop.
To fix the inrush current (and avoid getting errors on the computer), I’m using a 300 watt 5 ohm resistor. This resistor is connected across the switched legs of a 40A automotive relay (Novita RL44). When the relay is open, the energy flows through the resistor. When it’s closed, the resistor is bypassed.
***Important note about electromechanical relays***… when they shut off, the magnetic field collapses and generates a spike of voltage which can go back to whichever device is hooked up to the coil. To solve this, I have added a 1N4007 flyback diode across the relay coil. You must make sure the striped end of the diode is on the positive side of the coil. I crimped it into the relay harness, seen below.
To get the remote signal, I got an accessory power harness that attaches to the OBD connector underneath the rear vents. In this harness, the red wire is the switched accessory power and the yellow wire is constant 15.5V. I hooked this all into a Crydom 3A DC-DC solid state relay so that when the accessory power is on, it bridges the yellow 15.5V to a wire running to the remote input of my NVX XLCA2.
Here’s a picture of the total setup under my trunk:
To get the audio signal, I tapped the left and right woofer wires on a Hansshow harness.
I hope this helps someone!
