Reviver Rplate Pro "Digital License Plate

[Plaid2021]

Hello Everyone,
I made the investment decision to purchase a Reviver digital license plate. I opted in for the wired RPlate Pro and had one of Reviver's installers come out yesterday to try to install it. However, the installer ran into an issue with the installation due to the new 12v lithium-ion battery changes in the "Plaid" model. Long story short, from what I'm being told, the installer could not find the constant 12v power source in the trunk where the previous models have it. There is power there but it is not constant, it turns off when the car turns off. After checking in with a few people the installer found that he would need to splice the red wire at the new 12V Lithium-ion battery which would void my Tesla car warranty which is a No-No. Does anyone know if this is true? Is there no constant low voltage power in the trunk of the new 2021 model S that he missed? I have a warranty service appointment at the Seaside Tesla service center and will ask them. Perhaps they can engineer a way to provide a power connection. I would love to know from anyone on here more information about constant low voltage. Thanks again.

Side Note: The installer drill the hole for the license plate wire on the liftgate, so Reviver will be responsible for replacing the liftgate, tint the rear window, and pay for new clear bra and ceramic coating. I would rather avoid all that and get the power issue resolved.

 

[Bull]

What about the power to the struts? Or would that trigger warnings from the E fuses?

 

[Plaid2021]

I went to the service center on Wednesday and the people there know jack s**t. So that was a waste of my time. I also went there for some alignment issues with the front bumper, fender, and hood. For example, the right side fender has a corner sticking out 3mm. What I was told was that Tesla has established a minimum measurements for misalignment warranty issues and all of my issues were 1mm short from qualifying for warranty repair. For a $160k vehicle, their service is subpar and highly disappointing. I can't wait for all the other car manufacturers to enter the electric market and put Tesla to shame. Maybe then they will learn and be motivated to make high quality products.

 

[rooter]

I was going to say, they won't help you with this.

But why does the plate need to be on all the time? Check the Code.

PS - Something like this is not an "investment". It's consumption.

 

[Bull]

Apparently there is an OBDII port in the drivers footwell above the dead pedal. That would almost certainly be unswitched power. Then all you need to do is get it to the liftgate which is work but doable.

More info here:

Diagnostic Port Index

Don’t you need an adapter cable from the propriety Tesla port to the standard OBDII port? For my 2018 MS, I bought a standard OBD2 extension cable, localized the 12V source and crimped the ends to connect my device. I just plugged it straight into the port. Actually, now that I think about it...

teslamotorsclub.com

 

[jeremymc7]

Side Note: The installer drill the hole for the license plate wire on the liftgate, so Reviver will be responsible for replacing the liftgate, tint the rear window, and pay for new clear bra and ceramic coating. I would rather avoid all that and get the power issue resolved.

So did Reviver cover all those costs or not. I honestly can’t see that they would especially since the holes could plugged and covered with another plate, including their battery version.

 

[jeremymc7]

Honestly I don’t see the point of the Pro Wired model.

Both versions have bezels that are WAY to wide. Or the distance from the eInk screen to the edge of the case.

They are also both WAY WAY to think. The basic battery version is roughly half inch think and the pro wired is roughly an inch.

Those thicknesses are absurd compared to tablets and cell phones, which also have backlighting.

And why is the one without the 3yr battery, aka nearly twice as thick. The battery should be bigger than the back (or side) lighting. It should also be cheaper. LEDS are far cheaper than batteries. Why does it need lighting anyway. You have plate lights built into the car and I want my plate less visible.

The products are outdated in design compared to modern tech. The pricing is also absurd but I understand they are a TINY company run by a handful of people in their spare time. But since they charge a monthly fee they could reduce the price of the equipment substantially and atill
Make a profit by making it up in volume.

They also need to partner with more dealerships for 3rd party sales.

I would also suggest that if they can’t make the device thinner, unlikely then create a mount where you cut out part of the metal and flush the device into the trunk. This would also allow you to bolt it in from the inside making it impossible to steel.

But they’ve been doing it this May for years and years and the only thing that they’ve improved was getting this approved in what 2, maybe 3 more states.

Just a couple more side notes.

For those having trouble with the wired version just put a small 12V battery in the trunk and wire to that instead of tapping into car. Will work. Easy to do. And will last longer than battery version without lighting.

I would also like to see a cutoff switch in the app so when parks at shows or other places where I don’t want to show my plate I can shut off with the app. Otherwise I would crack this open, void the warranty and wire in a switch to kill the eInk somehow.

 

[dmurphy]

I would also like to see a cutoff switch in the app so when parks at shows or other places where I don’t want to show my plate I can shut off with the app. Otherwise I would crack this open, void the warranty and wire in a switch to kill the eInk somehow.

... that's not how eInk works ... and in fact is the primary difference between eInk and LCD displays.

eInk doesn't require power to retain its display.

What you'd need to do is invoke a firmware function to clear the eInk display. Much harder to do. Simply removing power doesn't do squat. This is why the battery can last 3 years... and is also why a Kindle display will stay visible after years of being unpowered... (I found my old Kindle - had to be sitting at least 5 years unpowered - and its "I'm out of battery" message was as crisp as the day it was written, probably 4.75 years beforehand.)

 

[jeremymc7]

... that's not how eInk works ... and in fact is the primary difference between eInk and LCD displays.

eInk doesn't require power to retain its display.

What you'd need to do is invoke a firmware function to clear the eInk display. Much harder to do. Simply removing power doesn't do squat. This is why the battery can last 3 years... and is also why a Kindle display will stay visible after years of being unpowered... (I found my old Kindle - had to be sitting at least 5 years unpowered - and its "I'm out of battery" message was as crisp as the day it was written, probably 4.75 years beforehand.)

I’m fully aware of how eInk works. It needs a charge to display or clear. So obviously I mean something that just sends black or clear pixels to the whole screen.

Again familiar with it all. Have several elink displays, mostly various Kindles, dozen Seiko Epson eInk watch and a handful of various other eInk displays.

Much like LED/LCD. EInk or e paper have various versions, tech, prices and performance.

If you reread my post I primarily asked for the blank plate option in the app. If they won’t do it I would be left with doing it manually and it would be only then would I do it manual and I also did mention it would be done somehow. This implying not easy or cheap.

 

[dmurphy]

I’m fully aware of how eInk works. It needs a charge to display or clear. So obviously I mean something that just sends black or clear pixels to the whole screen.

Again familiar with it all. Have several elink displays, mostly various Kindles, dozen Seiko Epson eInk watch and a handful of various other eInk displays.

Much like LED/LCD. EInk or e paper have various versions, tech, prices and performance.

If you reread my post I primarily asked for the blank plate option in the app. If they won’t do it I would be left with doing it manually and it would be only then would I do it manual and I also did mention it would be done somehow. This implying not easy or cheap.

Gotcha. The way it was written sounded like you planned to just put a battery-disconnect in, which obviously wouldn’t do squat. Like you said, just need to send it a signal to write all 0s or 1s - sounds easy, just not toggle-switch easy.

Sorry I misunderstood what you proposed.